All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall
Texas Tower Direct
Avg: 3.7 from 11 votes
Routes in The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall
|Ancient Futures T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Black Mamba T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Great Expectations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Lone Star T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Plein Air T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Shuffle, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13|
|Texanephrine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Texas Hold 'Em T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Texas Tower Direct T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Twixt Cradle and Stone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Velvet Revolver T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Velvet Tongue, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Velveteen Rabbit, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||John Rosholt - 1997|
|Page Views:||5,996 total, 54/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Nov 7, 2008|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionTexas Tower Direct is a great, sustained rock climb on bulletproof rock. When linked with the upper half of Texas Hold 'Em, this makes for one of the best long, hard routes in Red Rocks -- rivaling even the Rainbow Wall.
Begin 100' right of the start of Epinephrine.
P1, P2: Scramble 50' up and left across 5.0 ledges just left of a huge, hanging left-facing dihedral high above. Optional Belay on a large ledge with lots of bushes, otherwise: scramble left through the bushes to a small left-facing corner, up this and then traverse back right across a slab to a higher, small, left-facing corner/arete. Up this, passing a bolt, and continue more easily to a great belay ledge with bolted anchor. 130' to this point and a good place to stop and belay. From here, continue up the slab above, then diagonal rightwards across the slab (#2 or #3 Camalots in horizontals, and higher a thread) until reaching the previously mentioned huge, hanging left-facing dihedral just above a tree. Climb this to near it's top where there is a bolt up and left and another one up and right (the righthand one is situated above a shelf. Either way goes, but I find the righthand variation both easier and more direct. Belay just above at a good ledge with a bolted anchor. 260' to this point.
P3: Where Texas Hold 'Em goes right, TTD goes up and left off the belay. Climb ledgy terrain past a small cam placement before clipping a bolt. Continue up the bolted wall above past a difficult 5.12 stemming section to an intermediate anchor at a steep stance (do not belay here). Head up and left, then back right along an interesting feature on a beautiful wall. Some balancey 5.12 in there before reaching a bolted belay. An amazing pitch!
P4: The Velvet Tongue goes straight up the left-facing corner above. Instead, step straight right past a bolt and a difficult boulder problem. Clip the first bolt on the next pitch and down climb to a bolted anchor. V6-7, 20'.
P5: Head up the interesting right-facing flare/corner passing a tightly bolted crux section (5.12d, desparate). Alternatively, break off to the right and up a green, mossy face and head back left, bypassing the crux. Either way, continue up the corner past some hand-size gear placements before stepping wildly out left around the arete and up to another bolted belay. Spectacular.
P6: Climb up off the belay to the left on gorgeous, burgundy-varnished rock. Do a difficult move to a good finger lock (5.12a), then pass a roof above. There's good gear in a hidden crack out right. Continue up, eventually joining with Texas Hold 'Em and arriving at a bolted belay at the very top of Texas Tower.