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Routes in The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall

Ancient Futures T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Mamba T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Great Expectations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lone Star T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plein Air T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shuffle, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Texanephrine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Hold 'Em T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Tower Direct T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twixt Cradle and Stone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Velvet Revolver T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Velvet Tongue, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Velveteen Rabbit, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ken Dog & Co.
Page Views: 636 total · 41/month
Shared By: George Daniel Urioste on Oct 14, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb 5.7 chimney for 90 feet, passing 2 pro bolts, to a 2-bolt rap/belay station on a ledge. Walk west along this ledge, tunneling under the big chockstone. In about 200 feet there is a chimney/gully with a varnished face above it. Belay here.

Pitch 2: Climb the chimney/gully to a 2-bolt rap/belay station on the face to the right (5.7, 80 feet). This station is a recommended rap station, but is an optional belay station, since it can be bypassed and this pitch can be combined with the next pitch, if desired.

Pitch 3: Step right and climb delicate ramp to a pro bolt. Now go up to left-facing corner system which leads to a large ledge with a 2-bolt rap/belay station (5.9, 100 feet)

Pitch 4: Step right and climb crack to base of big chimney where there is a 2-bolt belay station which can be bypassed on the rappels. (5.7, 60 feet)

Pitch 5: Climb offwidth crack (5.10d) through big roof at the base of the chimney. A sequence of one or two #3 Camalots, one #4, one #5, and one #6 provide good pro until over the roof. The crack continues to be wide (5.10a) up to the 2-bolt hanging belay/rap station, so another #3, #4, and #5 may be useful. (120 feet, 5.10d)

Pitch 6: Surmount small, exposed roof with jam crack, then go straight up via slick face and small cracks to a small comfortable ledge with a 3-bolt belay/rap station. There are 3 pro bolts on the upper portion of this pitch. (160 feet, 5.10a/b, sustained)

Pitch 7: Go straight up from belay, following a crack in the exposed arĂȘte, which leads into a right-facing, right-slanting V-shaped crux corner with ultra-slick black varnish on its right-hand side. Tiny pro is possible here. A delicate traverse leads to the right side of the white overhang, after which a stance with a 2-bolt belay/rap station is reached. (140 feet, 5.10d/5.11a)

Pitch 8: Go straight up double cracks which are steep, varnished, and incipient. Step right and follow parallel thin cracks to a roof, above which easier climbing leads up and left to a large ledge with a 2-bolt rap/belay station. (130 feet, 5.9)

Location

Location: Climb the first 4 pitches of Twixt Cradle and Stone, to the base of the big chimney: Location of Twixt Cradle and Stone: This route lies on the North Face of West Velvet Peak, a couple hundred feet to the right of the major gully that lies just right of the Texas Tower area, but several hundred feet to the left of Great Expectations. Begin in the left-facing corner/chimney about a hundred feet to the right of Epinephrine.

Protection

Rack: Doubles up to #5 Camalot; one #6; possibly a 3rd #3. Several cams up to 0.5 inch. Descent: rap route with two 60 meter ropes.

Photos

Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
  5.11-
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
  5.11-
Phenomenal four pitches once you get to where it splits w Twixt! Highly recommended. One of my favorites in Red Rock. I felt good having one each #4 Friend, #4 and #5 C4, #1 and #2 BigBro. No #6 necessary. Sweet placing everything #2 RP to #2 BigBro!!! Apr 30, 2017
earl mcalister
Las Vegas, NV
earl mcalister   Las Vegas, NV
This is an excellent route. The wide crack layback (can't call it an offwidth) at the start is very challenging, the hand crack to face climbing on the next pitch is very engaging, and the crux dihedral is outstanding. It is a sustained group of pitches with a variety of styles and protection. Our rack: black alien to 4 camalot with doubles from green alien to #4, a single #5 and #6. You could easily substitute the #6 for a second #5, or if you're solid at face climbing around a wide crack (easy 5.10) a single #5 would be proficient. The holds on all pitches are fragile so protect as necessary. Nov 5, 2016