Type: Trad, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ken Dog & Co.
Page Views: 1,092 total · 30/month
Shared By: George Daniel Urioste on Oct 14, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb 5.7 chimney for 90 feet, passing 2 pro bolts, to a 2-bolt rap/belay station on a ledge. Walk west along this ledge, tunneling under the big chockstone. In about 200 feet there is a chimney/gully with a varnished face above it. Belay here.

Pitch 2: Climb the chimney/gully to a 2-bolt rap/belay station on the face to the right (5.7, 80 feet). This station is a recommended rap station, but is an optional belay station, since it can be bypassed and this pitch can be combined with the next pitch, if desired.

Pitch 3: Step right and climb delicate ramp to a pro bolt. Now go up to left-facing corner system which leads to a large ledge with a 2-bolt rap/belay station (5.9, 100 feet)

Pitch 4: Step right and climb crack to base of big chimney where there is a 2-bolt belay station which can be bypassed on the rappels. (5.7, 60 feet)

Pitch 5: Climb offwidth crack (5.10d) through big roof at the base of the chimney. A sequence of one or two #3 Camalots, one #4, one #5, and one #6 provide good pro until over the roof. The crack continues to be wide (5.10a) up to the 2-bolt hanging belay/rap station, so another #3, #4, and #5 may be useful. (120 feet, 5.10d)

Pitch 6: Surmount small, exposed roof with jam crack, then go straight up via slick face and small cracks to a small comfortable ledge with a 3-bolt belay/rap station. There are 3 pro bolts on the upper portion of this pitch. (160 feet, 5.10a/b, sustained)

Pitch 7: Go straight up from belay, following a crack in the exposed arĂȘte, which leads into a right-facing, right-slanting V-shaped crux corner with ultra-slick black varnish on its right-hand side. Tiny pro is possible here. A delicate traverse leads to the right side of the white overhang, after which a stance with a 2-bolt belay/rap station is reached. (140 feet, 5.10d/5.11a)

Pitch 8: Go straight up double cracks which are steep, varnished, and incipient. Step right and follow parallel thin cracks to a roof, above which easier climbing leads up and left to a large ledge with a 2-bolt rap/belay station. (130 feet, 5.9)

Location

Location: Climb the first 4 pitches of Twixt Cradle and Stone, to the base of the big chimney: Location of Twixt Cradle and Stone: This route lies on the North Face of West Velvet Peak, a couple hundred feet to the right of the major gully that lies just right of the Texas Tower area, but several hundred feet to the left of Great Expectations. Begin in the left-facing corner/chimney about a hundred feet to the right of Epinephrine.

Protection

Rack: Doubles up to #5 Camalot; one #6; possibly a 3rd #3. Several cams up to 0.5 inch. Descent: rap route with two 60 meter ropes.

Photos