Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Ken Dog & Co.|
|Page Views:||1,323 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||George Daniel Urioste on Oct 14, 2016|
|Admins:||Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Pitch 2: Climb the chimney/gully to a 2-bolt rap/belay station on the face to the right (5.7, 80 feet). This station is a recommended rap station, but is an optional belay station, since it can be bypassed and this pitch can be combined with the next pitch, if desired.
Pitch 3: Step right and climb delicate ramp to a pro bolt. Now go up to left-facing corner system which leads to a large ledge with a 2-bolt rap/belay station (5.9, 100 feet)
Pitch 4: Step right and climb crack to base of big chimney where there is a 2-bolt belay station which can be bypassed on the rappels. (5.7, 60 feet)
Pitch 5: Climb offwidth crack (5.10d) through big roof at the base of the chimney. A sequence of one or two #3 Camalots, one #4, one #5, and one #6 provide good pro until over the roof. The crack continues to be wide (5.10a) up to the 2-bolt hanging belay/rap station, so another #3, #4, and #5 may be useful. (120 feet, 5.10d)
Pitch 6: Surmount small, exposed roof with jam crack, then go straight up via slick face and small cracks to a small comfortable ledge with a 3-bolt belay/rap station. There are 3 pro bolts on the upper portion of this pitch. (160 feet, 5.10a/b, sustained)
Pitch 7: Go straight up from belay, following a crack in the exposed arête, which leads into a right-facing, right-slanting V-shaped crux corner with ultra-slick black varnish on its right-hand side. Tiny pro is possible here. A delicate traverse leads to the right side of the white overhang, after which a stance with a 2-bolt belay/rap station is reached. (140 feet, 5.10d/5.11a)
Pitch 8: Go straight up double cracks which are steep, varnished, and incipient. Step right and follow parallel thin cracks to a roof, above which easier climbing leads up and left to a large ledge with a 2-bolt rap/belay station. (130 feet, 5.9)