All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall
Avg: 2.4 from 7 votes
Routes in The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall
|Ancient Futures T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Black Mamba T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Great Expectations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Lone Star T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Plein Air T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Shuffle, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13|
|Texanephrine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Texas Hold 'Em T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Texas Tower Direct T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Twixt Cradle and Stone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Velvet Revolver T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Velvet Tongue, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Velveteen Rabbit, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 800 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||Dan McQuade & Randal Grandstaff - 1997|
|Page Views:||5,111 total, 72/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jan 30, 2012|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionTechnical and thought-provoking, Ancient Futures is a great rock climb that flirts with Epinephrine but takes a mostly independent line up a beautiful stretch of rock just right of the Black Tower. Begin as for Epi.
P1-2: Climb the first three pitches of Epinephrine which are easily linked into two pitches right up to the bottom of the main chimney.
P3: Just right of the main chimney, climb a slot formed by a huge, wedged pillar of rock. Near the top there is a bolt around to the left that protects some awkward and difficult moves out of the slot and up to a belay ledge with bolts. 5.10d, 110'.
P4: Continue up a thin crack, clipping a bolt off the belay, and then stem with great difficulty out right to a flake. Continue up this (hollow?) flake to the right-facing corner above and an excellent rest. From here the climbing gets really difficult: Instincts may tell you to stem desperately up the corner, but the way to go is unlikely: Work up sloping holds on the face to the right for a body-length before collapsing back into the corner and some thank-god jugs. Two bolts protect this crux, and above is some wide climbing that will feel downright easy, though it's probably 5.9 or 5.10. Belay at a bolted anchor on a ledge. 5.12a, 140'.
P5: The route apparently originally climbed up a severely overhanging, leaning, and yes, blank, corner above the belay passing two bolts. This seemed very 5.12 to me, so I instead pre-clipped the second bolt and down-climbed from the belay and moved right to an improbable, hidden crack. Great 5.11 climbing up this crack rejoins the original line just above the corner. Continue up through a roof and tricky face climbing and gear to a stance. Above is a stretch of bolted face climbing up fragile holds. This climbing is spectacular, interesting, and exposed, but the holds are flexing - without a very delicate touch this pitch could be destroyed - use caution! Belay on a narrow ledge at a bolted anchor. 5.11+, 140'.
P6: A very difficult move right off the belay past a bolt leads to some scary, frightening, and balancey moves back to the left where, if memory serves me correctly, there's gear and/or some bolts. I remember thinking I'd annihilate my belayer if I fell off this section. Above, some easy climbing up the right side of the Elephant's Trunk leads past a bolt and wildly up soft rock to the top of the trunk. 5.10++, 150'
Rap the route with two ropes or continue up Epinephrine.