Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 800 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||Dan McQuade & Randal Grandstaff - 1997|
|Page Views:||5,516 total · 59/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jan 30, 2012|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
P1-2: Climb the first three pitches of Epinephrine which are easily linked into two pitches right up to the bottom of the main chimney.
P3: Just right of the main chimney, climb a slot formed by a huge, wedged pillar of rock. Near the top there is a bolt around to the left that protects some awkward and difficult moves out of the slot and up to a belay ledge with bolts. 5.10d, 110'.
P4: Continue up a thin crack, clipping a bolt off the belay, and then stem with great difficulty out right to a flake. Continue up this (hollow?) flake to the right-facing corner above and an excellent rest. From here the climbing gets really difficult: Instincts may tell you to stem desperately up the corner, but the way to go is unlikely: Work up sloping holds on the face to the right for a body-length before collapsing back into the corner and some thank-god jugs. Two bolts protect this crux, and above is some wide climbing that will feel downright easy, though it's probably 5.9 or 5.10. Belay at a bolted anchor on a ledge. 5.12a, 140'.
P5: The route apparently originally climbed up a severely overhanging, leaning, and yes, blank, corner above the belay passing two bolts. This seemed very 5.12 to me, so I instead pre-clipped the second bolt and down-climbed from the belay and moved right to an improbable, hidden crack. Great 5.11 climbing up this crack rejoins the original line just above the corner. Continue up through a roof and tricky face climbing and gear to a stance. Above is a stretch of bolted face climbing up fragile holds. This climbing is spectacular, interesting, and exposed, but the holds are flexing - without a very delicate touch this pitch could be destroyed - use caution! Belay on a narrow ledge at a bolted anchor. 5.11+, 140'.
P6: A very difficult move right off the belay past a bolt leads to some scary, frightening, and balancey moves back to the left where, if memory serves me correctly, there's gear and/or some bolts. I remember thinking I'd annihilate my belayer if I fell off this section. Above, some easy climbing up the right side of the Elephant's Trunk leads past a bolt and wildly up soft rock to the top of the trunk. 5.10++, 150'
Rap the route with two ropes or continue up Epinephrine.