Avg: 3.6 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||FA: Unknown (possibly Dave Wonderly?)FFA: Josh Janes|
|Page Views:||2,656 total · 41/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jun 1, 2016|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
P1 (5.11c, 70’): Climb the face passing 5 bolts, stepping right to a perfect belay ledge at the base of a long, leaning, left-facing corner.
P2 (5.11b, 110’): Climb the corner passing a bolt, a run out on easy ground, and then a long, technical section protected by wires and shallow cams. At the top of the corner step right onto the arête and romp up to a comfortable belay on a sloping ledge.
P3 (5.12a, 90’): Move up off the belay passing three bolts before stepping left to a beautiful shallow crack in a black streak. Follow this to a stance below the massive roof. Two bolts protect bouldery climbing out the roof to an anchor just above.
Rap the route. Pull the rope outside of the corner on P2 as the corner itself is a rope-eater.
The east end of the terrace can be accessed by climbing the first (5.7) pitch of Twixt Cradle and Stone which is an obvious wide crack in the unmistakeable left-facing corner just past Epinephrine. Once on the terrace, scramble west 500’, looking for an attractive, varnished right-facing wide crack (Black Mamba); to the right of this is the bolted face of the first pitch of The Velveteen Rabbit. Note: reversing this approach and rapping is the fastest way out at the end of the day.
An alternative and faster approach is by way of the far (west) end of this terrace: Continue in the wash for another five minutes past Epinephrine to the point where Corduroy Ridge splits the canyon into two forks. The south fork (left) is followed to access the Western Spaces Wall and the north fork (right) is followed to reach Sick for Toys. Scramble 60’ up the toe of Corduroy Ridge via an exposed and slippery 4th class rib of rock sandwiched between an occasionally wet slide to the left and a bolted slab to the right. Once on the level spot above (this is the very bottom of the south fork of BV Canyon) immediately turn left and scramble 30’ up a 5.0 chimney which deposits you at the west end of the same long terrace described previously. Pass underneath the start of Great Expectations and follow the terrace back east for 300’ to the start of the route.
Approach time is 40-45 minutes (10 minutes past Epinephrine).