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Routes in The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall

Ancient Futures T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Mamba T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Great Expectations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lone Star T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plein Air T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shuffle, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Texanephrine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Hold 'Em T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Tower Direct T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twixt Cradle and Stone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Velvet Revolver T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Velvet Tongue, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Velveteen Rabbit, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 270 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA: Unknown (possibly Dave Wonderly?)FFA: Josh Janes
Page Views: 1,275 total · 43/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 1, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


The Velveteen Rabbit is the free version of an old abandoned aid project deep in Black Velvet Canyon. It has three pitches of excellent and varied climbing that build in difficulty to a climactic finish - all played out on great rock.

P1 (5.11c, 70’): Climb the face passing 5 bolts, stepping right to a perfect belay ledge at the base of a long, leaning, left-facing corner.

P2 (5.11b, 110’): Climb the corner passing a bolt, a run out on easy ground, and then a long, technical section protected by wires and shallow cams. At the top of the corner step right onto the arête and romp up to a comfortable belay on a sloping ledge.

P3 (5.12a, 90’): Move up off the belay passing three bolts before stepping left to a beautiful shallow crack in a black streak. Follow this to a stance below the massive roof. Two bolts protect bouldery climbing out the roof to an anchor just above.

Rap the route. Pull the rope outside of the corner on P2 as the corner itself is a rope-eater.


Just past the start of Epinephrine and the Texas Wall routes lies a long terrace 100’ above the canyon floor. The Velveteen Rabbit starts from the center of this terrace.

The east end of the terrace can be accessed by climbing the first (5.7) pitch of Twixt Cradle and Stone which is an obvious wide crack in the unmistakeable left-facing corner just past Epinephrine. Once on the terrace, scramble west 500’, looking for an attractive, varnished right-facing wide crack (Black Mamba); to the right of this is the bolted face of the first pitch of The Velveteen Rabbit. Note: reversing this approach and rapping is the fastest way out at the end of the day.

An alternative and faster approach is by way of the far (west) end of this terrace: Continue in the wash for another five minutes past Epinephrine to the point where Corduroy Ridge splits the canyon into two forks. The south fork (left) is followed to access the Western Spaces Wall and the north fork (right) is followed to reach Sick for Toys. Scramble 60’ up the toe of Corduroy Ridge via an exposed and slippery 4th class rib of rock sandwiched between an occasionally wet slide to the left and a bolted slab to the right. Once on the level spot above (this is the very bottom of the south fork of BV Canyon) immediately turn left and scramble 30’ up a 5.0 chimney which deposits you at the west end of the same long terrace described previously. Pass underneath the start of Great Expectations and follow the terrace back east for 300’ to the start of the route.

Approach time is 40-45 minutes (10 minutes past Epinephrine).


2x from small to 1” (Aliens or other flexible-stem cams work best).
Optional #1 Camalot.
Double set of wires.
70m rope.


Earl Arin
Las Vegas, NV
Earl Arin   Las Vegas, NV
For some reason, I thought there was another climb with the same name somewhere in one of the other canyons.... not in the guidebook. Jun 5, 2016
Josh Janes

Josh Janes    
There are two Jet Streams and two Fear and Loathings. I reckon it is within the realm of possibility. Jun 5, 2016
Alex Shainman
Rifle, CO
Alex Shainman   Rifle, CO
Great new route!!! Do it!

Every pitch is 4 stars but since it's so short, it's hard to give the route as a whole 4 stars.

Don't let the first pitch lull you into thinking it's a rinky-dink sport route...but its crux may be more stout for under 5'8" climbers, plus a hard clip.

Pitch 2 will keep your attention. Say shallow nut placement 10 times in a row.

The 3rd pitch starts out on cool plates and the black seam is like limestone pocket climbing with trad pro. The roof has a brief but burly sequence to the lip. The middle is a little dirty but will be super clean with regular ascents.

If I did the route again (I probably will), I'd only bring 1 of EACH size cams from #00 C3 - 1 Camalot (or similar cams) and definitely a full set of nuts (double #4 - 11 Stoppers or similar nuts). HB aluminum offsets might fit better in the multiple shallow placements of pitch 2...hard to say, but in general I found wired nuts worked better than cams.

Nice work Josh!

Apr 20, 2017

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