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Routes in The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall

Ancient Futures T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Mamba T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Great Expectations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lone Star T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plein Air T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shuffle, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Texanephrine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Hold 'Em T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Tower Direct T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twixt Cradle and Stone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Velvet Revolver T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Velvet Tongue, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Velveteen Rabbit, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 1500 ft, 21 pitches, Grade V
FA: Richard Harrison, Paul Van Betten and others
Page Views: 6,675 total, 42/month
Shared By: Tom Moulin on Sep 24, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Although it is entirely possible to link pitches or climb in other areas of the cliff (sometimes confusing, esp. down low and right above the Texas Tower), this is what we did:

P1: ~100ft right of Epinephrine and ~80' left of a chimney corner scramble and climb up some face climbing (5.8) and left to a ledge, 100'.

P2: trend right from the belay and follow crack system to the left of Texas Hold'em, belay at a small stance above a scrub oak in the crack. 5.7, 80'

P3: Traverse right on edges to the bolt on pitch 2 of Texas Hold'em, 5.9, passing a two bolt belay continue up and right through the 5.6 corner to another 2 bolt anchor at the right side of a ledge.

P4: Follow the corner above to another bolter belay, 5.7, 60'P5: climb the small right facing dihedral above to another bolted belay 5.10, 60'

P6: step down and follow 4 bolts up and right (5.11) to a small right facing dihedral (5.9), 60'

P7: Climb the large right facing dihedral with the large crack to a ledge 5.10 or face climb (no gear) around the large bit in the crack on edges to the right, another short bit of 5.10- crack/corner gets you to the top of the Texas Tower. 160' Rappel or down climb to another ledge with a bolted belay on the left (5.7) 20'Note: directly up from this belay is the line of Texas Hold'em

P8: Trend up and left past a fixed nut to a bolted belay 5.9+/10- 70'

P9: Traverse left and down, passing ~ 5 bolts to a bolted belay at a small ledge stance 5.10- 60'

P10: From where P9 meets the shallow dihedral (just before down climbing to the belay) continue straight up through the shallow dihedral passing ~7 _JU_ quarter inch bolts 5.9+

P11: Traverse right clipping a quarter inch button head, make a couple thin face moves (5.10+/11-) up and right around a roof into a dihedral with fragile/chossy rock. Continue up the dihedral (5.9) to a quarter inch button head and RP nest belay, 90'

P12: Continue up the dihedral, then trend right pulling over some small roofs on suspect patina crimps (PG), work around a bulge (5.10) and onto a right trending ramp. Belay here (100') or continue ~30' up the ramp to a bolted belay.

P13: Continue up the ramp (easy/moderate fifth class) to a ledge system below a large cleft.Note we did a small pitch here through the trees to move the belay up to the base of the next pitch.

P14: Follow the chimney/crack system on the right of the cleft to small ledges in the chimney, 5.10-, 80'

P15: Continue up this crack system (5.10-) for ~30' them move right through a small corner onto a ledge, 70'

P16: Climb through ledges, trees and large blocks, belay atop the highest large block, 5th class, 50'

P17: Traverse right into a corner/crack climb this (5.10) to a large scrub oak, climb through the tree and traverse right along a ledge to a belay, 80'

P18: Climb straight up from the belay on a well featured face with much lichen, follow the obvious right slanting crack to a ledge up and right, 5.10-, 100'

P19: Traverse up and right around an arĂȘte to a large corner and ledge, belay, 5.6 70'

P20: Head up and right with hollow patina crimps (5.9 PG) and over a bulge with more crimps aiming for a large pine tree, belay in an alcove with large blocks, 220'

P21: From the alcove step left and climb to the pine tree. 5.5, 70'

Descend as for Epinephrine

Protection

double rack up to #3 camalot, including singles up to #5 camalot.
Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
 
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
 
Amazing route! Pitch by pitch beta for Texas Hold'em - Lone Star link for those that want it:

P1: Follow ledges to prominent left-facing corner system that merges w a fingers and hands splitter and belay at two bolts. 5.7 or harder, many options to make faster or more fun. 45m

P2: Slab left then right to varished, leaning left-facing corner. Two options: Staying in the corner past the shrub to a bolt protected traverse is the longer sustained path, while cutting right on the ledge traverse to one difficult bolt protected move is a more direct option. Continue past two-bolt anchor up the lower angle corner system and belay on giant ledge off gear. 5.8ish 60m

P3: Pass the first pair of bolts to a two-bolt one-drillbit anchor on a nice commanding ledge. 5.8 50m

P4: Amazing pitch! Two bolt anchor on the Texas Tower. 5.10+ 55m

P5: Climb crack traversing left when possible to gain two-bolt anchor on a small ledge stace. 5.9 25m

P6: Thee 'ol crux. 5.11 (expect a much harder move if you're short) 25m

P7: Fun flare to tenuous traverse into more awesome flair! 5.11- 35m

P8: Phenomenal steep hands corner! Traverse out left to the exposed ramp that Lone Star follows. Two-bolt belay. 5.10 25m

P9: Right trending corner crack past some choss, ledges and shrubs to big ledge below steep double corner cracks. 5.5 50m

P10: Imaculate dualling crack stembox to cruxy offwidth pod then up ledges and bushes. Belay from any number of locations. 5.10 60 m

P11: Access the steep left facing corner, then ledges up through scrub oak (Quercus terbinella) preferably to the massive ledge below a sweet sub-summit thats sweet to check out. 5.10 40m

P12: Finger crack to featured face into intimidating right-/eaning seam crack. Great rock! Follow ledges up and right and belay at one of the few with options for an anchor. 5.10 (I thought +) 60 m

P13: Slab traverse right around arete and up corner crack. Better to belay above ledge in the little laurel tree. 5.6 15m (probably better to link with the previous pitch but we had a belay in the scrub oak and ran out of rope)

P14: Climb the slab connecting the random cracks and flakes that provide gear. I was impressed by the rock quality, but gear is sparse and not exactly bomber. Simul climb to reach tree or build belay in alcove. 5.8 90m

We were happy taking a doubles set blue alien to #3 camalot, one #4 camalots with a set of offset stoppers with a couple RPs. Apr 30, 2017
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c/d PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c/d PG13
Texas finishes at the bolted belay at the top of pitch 12 of Lone Star (on the big ramp above the crux pitch of Lone Star)

This is, imho, why the link up is so appealing. You avoid the scary crux (on terrible rock) of lone star in favor of the crux of Texas which looks vastly more appealing and the rock looks bulletproof. Mar 26, 2015
KurtH  
Question here for the folks who have linked into this route via Texas Hold 'Em: after a bit of reading, I'm a little confused as to when Texas Hold 'Em connects into Lone Star. At which pitch does it enter? (referencing the pitch break-down during the intro on this page). Thanks! Mar 26, 2015
If approaching via Yellow Rose as did the first ascentionists (moulin's beta above mixes up some different routes and sounds like it might be faster and more fun on the first few pitches), here's a little beta on that route: the lower pitches are grovelly and not very frequently climbed, the bolts have been partially replaced (and retroed in some spots) as of this posting, and the route definitely doesn't start getting fun until atop the huge gully ledge. The bolts we replaced that were likely part of Rosholt's efforts to get a couple of the neighboring 12s in place were in very funky shape due to galvanic corrosion. Heads up to those whipping on these relics from the 90s. When the route is fully replaced, I will post up. Dec 5, 2014
earl mcalister
Las Vegas, NV
 
earl mcalister   Las Vegas, NV
 
The bolt protecting the crux has been replaced. Gear wise, we got by with bringing one old #4 camalot, rather than a 4 and 5. On the last pitch watch out for loose rock from people topping out epinephrine. My partner almost got clocked by a big one. Oct 12, 2014
Sandbagged for the grade. Texas hold'em last pitch was hard for 10d and the 10a and 10b pitches on lonestar felt much harder. Maybe i was having a bad day but I TR sent the 11c final pitch on Cloud Tower the next day but could not come close to even attempting to sen the 10d Texaa Hold'em pitch. Lonestar was a great linkup. Oct 9, 2012
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
Alittle less like a Red Rock Canyon...alittle more like a Black one.

josh Apr 8, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c/d PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c/d PG13
An interesting route- if I were to do it again, I'd start via Texas Hold 'Em, avoiding the initial pitch of Lone Star, which definitely detracted from the day (poor rock quality and fair to marginal gear the whole way- glad i wasnt on the sharp end!). The upper pitches above the ramp, though were incredible- well worth doing.

Darren's beta was perfect and a 70m line is mandatory anyway for the final 5.9 pitch. Even if you take a 60m line, link the first two pitches and build a hanging belay on the ramp if necessary- the RP nest belay is a joke and should be avoided. Apr 8, 2010
Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
We did this route a couple of days ago by starting on Epinephrine so that we could climb the first half of the wall in the shade (early summer beta). This allowed us to make a lot of progress while waiting for the rest of the route to go in the shade.

Once on Lone Star proper (pitch 11 in the description, as 1-10 is Yellow Rose) here is some beta to help if you use a 70meter rope.

Link p11-12, with good use of runnering you can make it all the way to the bolted anchor. (BTW, you can back up the buttonhead with an awesome green alien)(230')

p13 climb all the way to the pedestal inside the chimney with the double cracks (220')

Link p14, 15, 16 all the way to the top of the last perched block (220 -230')

p17 climb past the tree to the nice ledge (I tried to link into 18, but had impossible drag due to the tree, and had to downclimb back to the ledge) (80')

Link 18, 19 go from the diagonal crack all the way to the base of p20. We discovered that p19 is more like 130', not the 70' described so 18 and 19 together is like 230', just barely doable with a 70m (230+')

You could link 20 and 21 with some simul climbing (we pitched these out, but the terrain the leader and follower are on is easy, but fragile, exercise good judgement if you wish to simul part of these.)
(p20 230', p21 short and easy)

This allowed us to cut 11 short pitches down to 7 massive pitches, but could cut it to 6 if you simul the end.

It was really fun to take off and try to climb 70m pitches, I recommend this. May 19, 2009