Type: Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 21 pitches, Grade V
FA: Richard Harrison, Paul Van Betten and others
Page Views: 8,362 total · 43/month
Shared By: Tom Moulin on Sep 24, 2004
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Although it is entirely possible to link pitches or climb in other areas of the cliff (sometimes confusing, esp. down low and right above the Texas Tower), this is what we did:

P1: ~100ft right of Epinephrine and ~80' left of a chimney corner scramble and climb up some face climbing (5.8) and left to a ledge, 100'.

P2: trend right from the belay and follow crack system to the left of Texas Hold'em, belay at a small stance above a scrub oak in the crack. 5.7, 80'

P3: Traverse right on edges to the bolt on pitch 2 of Texas Hold'em, 5.9, passing a two bolt belay continue up and right through the 5.6 corner to another 2 bolt anchor at the right side of a ledge.

P4: Follow the corner above to another bolter belay, 5.7, 60'P5: climb the small right facing dihedral above to another bolted belay 5.10, 60'

P6: step down and follow 4 bolts up and right (5.11) to a small right facing dihedral (5.9), 60'

P7: Climb the large right facing dihedral with the large crack to a ledge 5.10 or face climb (no gear) around the large bit in the crack on edges to the right, another short bit of 5.10- crack/corner gets you to the top of the Texas Tower. 160' Rappel or down climb to another ledge with a bolted belay on the left (5.7) 20'Note: directly up from this belay is the line of Texas Hold'em

P8: Trend up and left past a fixed nut to a bolted belay 5.9+/10- 70'

P9: Traverse left and down, passing ~ 5 bolts to a bolted belay at a small ledge stance 5.10- 60'

P10: From where P9 meets the shallow dihedral (just before down climbing to the belay) continue straight up through the shallow dihedral passing ~7 _JU_ quarter inch bolts 5.9+

P11: Traverse right clipping a quarter inch button head, make a couple thin face moves (5.10+/11-) up and right around a roof into a dihedral with fragile/chossy rock. Continue up the dihedral (5.9) to a quarter inch button head and RP nest belay, 90'

P12: Continue up the dihedral, then trend right pulling over some small roofs on suspect patina crimps (PG), work around a bulge (5.10) and onto a right trending ramp. Belay here (100') or continue ~30' up the ramp to a bolted belay.

P13: Continue up the ramp (easy/moderate fifth class) to a ledge system below a large cleft.Note we did a small pitch here through the trees to move the belay up to the base of the next pitch.

P14: Follow the chimney/crack system on the right of the cleft to small ledges in the chimney, 5.10-, 80'

P15: Continue up this crack system (5.10-) for ~30' them move right through a small corner onto a ledge, 70'

P16: Climb through ledges, trees and large blocks, belay atop the highest large block, 5th class, 50'

P17: Traverse right into a corner/crack climb this (5.10) to a large scrub oak, climb through the tree and traverse right along a ledge to a belay, 80'

P18: Climb straight up from the belay on a well featured face with much lichen, follow the obvious right slanting crack to a ledge up and right, 5.10-, 100'

P19: Traverse up and right around an arĂȘte to a large corner and ledge, belay, 5.6 70'

P20: Head up and right with hollow patina crimps (5.9 PG) and over a bulge with more crimps aiming for a large pine tree, belay in an alcove with large blocks, 220'

P21: From the alcove step left and climb to the pine tree. 5.5, 70'

Descend as for Epinephrine

Protection

double rack up to #3 camalot, including singles up to #5 camalot.

Photos