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Neo-Quasi Bugaloo 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,084
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 3, 2001

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Near the upper crux on this long pitch. Photo by P...

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the longest single pitches on the crag, coming in at about 105 feet. Bring a 60m rope or 2-50m. This route is the second route right of the big crack/gully system running through the middle of the crag. This route is the furthest line left running through the obvious roof. The climbing starts through some rough terrain (not very fun) and then breaks left at the 3rd bolt, I think heading straight up the slab on the right would be a little harder than 10a. Place long draws on the bolts below the roof to avoid rope drag. Once you pull the roof climb to a rest 3 bolts from the top. Clipping the 10th/11th bolt may be difficult if you are under 5'4", quite commiting and the crux of the route. From here, climb over the top and get your body in that alcove to clip the anchors, weird body position. Altogether a nice route, with crimps on the slab, a roof to pull and continuity. 2 stars.

Protection 

12 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Neo-Quasi Bugaloo Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching the upper crux. Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic...
Approaching the upper crux. Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic...
Luke on the overhang/corner with another climber a...
Luke on the overhang/corner with another climber a...
There's a hard slab move here, but you can bypass ...
There's a hard slab move here, but you can bypass ...
The juggy ceiling. Photo by Paul Rezucha.
The juggy ceiling. Photo by Paul Rezucha.
Luke on the slab. It feels like cheating climbing ...
Luke on the slab. It feels like cheating climbing ...
Not sure the finishing moves can be described as 1...
Not sure the finishing moves can be described as 1...

Comments on Neo-Quasi Bugaloo Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 11, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 19, 2002

Why...is this called Neo-Quasi Bugaloo, a small band in Denver made that term up in 1997 to describe a blend of all musical styles, focusing mainly on fun. Please e-mail me back to expalin this violation at funkyaskimbo@lycos.com
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 22, 2002

That's really cool. Sorry, if I sounded like a jerk, that's just my sense of humor. I'm the drummer of Askimbo and althought Geoff (the pastor's son) is no longer in the band, I still talk to him quite a bit. Thanks for the reference. I'm to tell all my Boulder friends about this.
By Jason Carter
From: Monument, CO
Jun 30, 2002

An excellent line with thin face moves down low, a pumpy roof to a good rest, more face climbing to difficult sidepull moves that finally get you to a fun mantle and the top. My first lead up this I couldn't figure out the side pulls near the top so I moved left into the corner and laybacked up to the 11th bolt. I did the route again on TR and still found the side pull moves quite tricky, but manageable; these are just like the side pulls that spit me off of Bonehead 5.10c @##$##$%%!!!! Excellent line with good bolt placements and a really cool, although totally conspicuous and aesthetically unfriendly, top anchor, but maybe not as cool as Airheads chains.
By Drew Allan
From: Denver/Aspen
Aug 31, 2002
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

If you are trying to determine which is route is easier to climb between this route and its neighbor, Learning to Crawl, I would suggest LTC. Although rated slighter lower, NQB is definitely harder than LTC in IMHO. There are approximately four crux sections on this route and, with the added length, makes NQB more challenging. The roof on this route is more involved than LTC. My partner felt the same way. Interesting to see what others think.
By richard magill
Sep 3, 2002

I did these routes with a 5'2" woman and a 12 year old, and they both found NQB to be significantly trickier than LTC. 10c and 10a were the official estimates, respectively.I'm about 5'9", and the two routes don't seem all that different to me, although I would agree that NQB is more continuous.
By rags
Apr 28, 2007

I thought it was harder than 10a more like 10c in my opinion. The traverse down low was out of character for the route. Solid moves throughout, great route!
By Not So Famous Old Dude
From: Denver, CO
Jun 16, 2008

"I think heading straight up the slab on the right would be a little harder than 10a."

If you go straight up/right of the bolt line, it's definitely solid 11, I'd say. Ultra thin, committing slab work involved, and it's more than just one move.
By Scott Thurnauer
Dec 19, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I liked all the routes on this wall so far, and this was a great long route with a lot of cool moves, some slab, a little roof, some side pull and the clips were all pretty good.
By Mrk9182
From: Denver, CO
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Super fun climb, great variety of moves. The slab felt much harder than the 10a/b right next to it.
By goingUp
May 17, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Jugs, slabs, crimps, and a roof all in one route! 10b, slabby, crimp moves!
By Parker Wrozek
Oct 11, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Awesome route. The slabs are crazy if you stay on the bolt line. Clipping the third bolt is the crux IMO, very sketchy clip with some serious fall potential. The roof is awesome and super easy really. The slab above the roof is also tough. Just when you get through the slabs, you get the thank you so much jugs to save you. Highly recommended and worth the hike up. I would put both slabs at 5.10c, much harder then LTC.