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Mount Diablo State Park

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Boy Scout Rocks 
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Mount Diablo State Park Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 3,849'
Location: 37.8817, -121.9146 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 74,289
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 25, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Park map with directions to locate the climbing ar...

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Description 

This mixed area sits inside of Mt. Diablo State Park southeast of Walnut Creek, and northeast of Danville. Offering a mixed bag of climbing: trad, top rope, and sport routes are all found here. Additionally, there is some bouldering, but not at the major established climbing areas.

Access to the park will cost you up to $7 per car, so heads up. You can check the park website directly for current prices and information.

Most of the climbing is on sandstone, which makes the sport bolts sketchy, and some of the trad routes absolutely terrifying. It also makes for some fun smearing and edging moves everywhere.

Almost all areas have a simple way to set up a toprope, though you should bring really, really long slings (20' +) for many of the anchors.

Getting There 

Boy Scout Rocks: From the 680 just north of Danville, take exit 40 for El Cerro Blvd and follow that east for about 1 mile. Continue on Diablo Road. After about 2 miles, turn left at Mount Diablo Scenic Blvd, which becomes South Gate Road. Boy Scout Rocks will be on the right. Boy Scout Rocks Map

Pine Canyon: From Walnut Creek, take the Ygnacio Valley Road exit and drive east for about 4 miles. Turn right at Oak Grove Road and continue on Castle Rock Road to its end. Pine Canyon Map

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.4 miles from here

60 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',5],['5.8',7],['5.9',3],['5.10',26],['5.11',13],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mount Diablo State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mount Diablo State Park:
Prelude   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad   Pine Canyon : Pulpit
Cave Route   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages
The Pillar   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock
West Face   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages
Dry December   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock
Amazing Face   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Blue Zenith   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock
Yabba Dabba Dudes   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Pine Canyon : Flintstone Rock
Evolution   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 155'   Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages
Diagonal Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
The Quarry   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Pine Canyon : Flintstone Rock
Bridge of Sighs   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Sport, 2 pitches   Pine Canyon : Mammoth Rock
The Arch (a.k.a. Ozone)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Proboscis   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 2 pitches   Pine Canyon : Mammoth Rock
Boromir   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Pine Canyon : Mammoth Rock
Bolt Route   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Earthcling    5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Cracker Ass Cracker   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Dinosaur   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Deliverance   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Pine Canyon : Deliverance Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mount Diablo State Park

Featured Route For Mount Diablo State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: John nearing the top of Bolt Route.  Climber to th...

Bolt Route 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CA : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : Lower Tier
On the east face of the Lower Tier, immediately right of the route with two giant holes at the bottom. Very pumpy and unrelenting but no move is harder than about 5.10d. There are cruxy moves at the top and bottom of the climb, and knowing which holds to use is key. Trust your feet and be patient....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Mount Diablo State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Liza Butler on Chouinard's Crack, at Mt. Diablo St...
Liza Butler on Chouinard's Crack, at Mt. Diablo St...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the trailhead branching off of the ridge t...
BETA PHOTO: This is the trailhead branching off of the ridge t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Top roping Lower Tier, Amazing Face at the Boy Sco...
Top roping Lower Tier, Amazing Face at the Boy Sco...

Comments on Mount Diablo State Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By steple
Aug 14, 2016
CONDITION REPORT 
Lost and found: Cloth bag with climbing shoes on road near top of Boy Scout wall, call ranger office.
By Chris Barker
From: Denver, CO
May 13, 2010
State park entrance fees have increased to $10. Bring your loot people!
By clustiere
Aug 11, 2012
There is soo much potential here if you don't mind finding the good rock among the bad. It's like the ugly cousin of red rocks. If this place gets more developed it will need a guidebook of its own. A fun adventure!
By James Nobles
Oct 4, 2012
Park now costs $10 per car or $9 for seniors so bring your grandma!
By Nelson Costa
Jul 31, 2016
Anyone climbing today that wants to show me the ropes at mt Diablo? Send me a message.
By aaron freifeld
2 days ago
Hey left some quickdraws on the "west face/evolution" route on the Rock of Ages. If anyone happens to grab them, I'd be happy to pick them up anywhere in the bay. Thanks@!!!!!

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