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Mount Diablo State Park

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Boy Scout Rocks 
Butt Rock 
Chimney Rocks 
Pine Canyon 

Mount Diablo State Park  


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Elevation: 3,849'
Location: 37.8817, -121.9146 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 146,511
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 25, 2002
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Top roping Lower Tier, Amazing Face at the Boy Sco...

Description 

This mixed area sits inside of Mt. Diablo State Park southeast of Walnut Creek, and northeast of Danville. Offering a mixed bag of climbing: trad, top rope, and sport routes are all found here. Additionally, there is some bouldering, but not at the major established climbing areas.

Access to the park will cost you up to $7 per car, so heads up.

Most of the climbing is on sandstone, which makes the sport bolts sketchy, and some of the trad routes absolutely terrifying. It also makes for some fun smearing and edging moves everywhere.

Almost all areas have a simple way to set up a toprope, though you should bring really, really long slings (20' +) for many of the anchors.

Getting There 

Boy Scout Rocks: From the 680 just north of Danville, take exit 40 for El Cerro Blvd and follow that east for about 1 mile. Continue on Diablo Road. After about 2 miles, turn left at Mount Diablo Scenic Blvd, which becomes South Gate Road. Boy Scout Rocks will be on the right. Boy Scout Rocks Map

Pine Canyon: From Walnut Creek, take the Ygnacio Valley Road exit and drive east for about 4 miles. Turn right at Oak Grove Road and continue on Castle Rock Road to its end. Pine Canyon Map

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.4 miles from here

46 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',3],['5.10',16],['5.11',11],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Diablo State Park:
Prelude   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad   Pine Canyon : Pulpit?
Cave Route   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages
West Face   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages
The Pillar   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock
Dry December   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock
Dingleberry Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Pine Canyon : Miller Pillar
Blue Zenith   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock
Amazing Face   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Yabba Dabba Dudes   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Pine Canyon : Flintstone Rock
Oona Kuma Direct   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   Pine Canyon : Flintstone Rock
Oona Kuma   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Pine Canyon : Flintstone Rock
Jungle Book   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Boy Scout Rocks : Middle Tier
Evolution   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 155'   Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages
Ozone   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
The Quarry   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Pine Canyon : Flintstone Rock
Diagonal Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Ozone Direct   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Bolt Route   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Boy Scout Rocks : Middle Tier
Deliverance   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Pine Canyon : Deliverance Rock
Browse More Classics in Mount Diablo State Park

Featured Route For Mount Diablo State Park
John nearing the top of Bolt Route.  Climber to the left is on Amazing Face.

Bolt Route 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CA : San Francisco Bay : ... : Lower Tier
On the east face of the Lower Tier, immediately right of the route with two giant holes at the bottom. Very pumpy and unrelenting but no move is harder than about 5.10d. There are cruxy moves at the top and bottom of the climb, and knowing which holds to use is key. Trust your feet and be patient....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Mount Diablo State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Liza Butler on Chouinard's Crack, at Mt. Diablo State Park.
Liza Butler on Chouinard's Crack, at Mt. Diablo St...

Comments on Mount Diablo State Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Barker
From: Denver, CO
May 13, 2010
State park entrance fees have increased to $10. Bring your loot people!
By clustiere
Aug 11, 2012
There is soo much potential here if you don't mind finding the good rock among the bad. It's like the ugly cousin of red rocks. If this place gets more developed it will need a guidebook of its own. A fun adventure!
By James Nobles
Oct 4, 2012
Park now costs $10 per car or $9 for seniors so bring your grandma!