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Mount Diablo State Park

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Boy Scout Rocks 
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Mount Diablo State Park Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 3,849'
Location: 37.8817, -121.9146 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 39,410
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 25, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: This is the trailhead branching off of the ridge t...

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Description 

This mixed area sits inside of Mt. Diablo State Park southeast of Walnut Creek, and northeast of Danville. Offering a mixed bag of climbing: trad, top rope, and sport routes are all found here. Additionally, there is some bouldering, but not at the major established climbing areas.

Access to the park will cost you up to $7 per car, so heads up. You can check the park website directly for current prices and information.

Most of the climbing is on sandstone, which makes the sport bolts sketchy, and some of the trad routes absolutely terrifying. It also makes for some fun smearing and edging moves everywhere.

Almost all areas have a simple way to set up a toprope, though you should bring really, really long slings (20' +) for many of the anchors.

Getting There 

Boy Scout Rocks: From the 680 just north of Danville, take exit 40 for El Cerro Blvd and follow that east for about 1 mile. Continue on Diablo Road. After about 2 miles, turn left at Mount Diablo Scenic Blvd, which becomes South Gate Road. Boy Scout Rocks will be on the right. Boy Scout Rocks Map

Pine Canyon: From Walnut Creek, take the Ygnacio Valley Road exit and drive east for about 4 miles. Turn right at Oak Grove Road and continue on Castle Rock Road to its end. Pine Canyon Map

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.4 miles from here

55 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',25],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',5],['5.8',6],['5.9',3],['5.10',22],['5.11',13],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mount Diablo State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mount Diablo State Park:
Prelude   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad   Pine Canyon : Pulpit
Cave Route   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages
The Pillar   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock
West Face   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages
Dry December   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock
Amazing Face   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Blue Zenith   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock
Yabba Dabba Dudes   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Pine Canyon : Flintstone Rock
Oona Kuma   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Pine Canyon : Flintstone Rock
Evolution   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 155'   Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages
The Quarry   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Pine Canyon : Flintstone Rock
Proboscis   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 2 pitches   Pine Canyon : Mammoth rock
Bridge of Sighs   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Sport, 2 pitches   Pine Canyon : Mammoth rock
The Arch (a.k.a. Ozone)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Diagonal Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Boromir   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Pine Canyon : Mammoth rock
Ozone Direct   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Bolt Route   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Dinosaur   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier
Deliverance   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Pine Canyon : Deliverance Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mount Diablo State Park

Featured Route For Mount Diablo State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting under first bolt

Proboscis 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13  CA : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : Mammoth rock
Bolted route right from Peregrine. Two bolt-protected slightly run out pitches in a great setting with fragile holds. Bolts locations make for some difficult and spicy clips. Belay on the top (of second pitch) from a big hole and walk off on descend. First pitch:Move to the left from second bolt is super cool- a lot of air under and great holds.60 meters rope is enough for top-roping the first (most fun) pitch. Could be done in one 58-meters pitch with 12+ quick-draws.Second pitch:Rock is fragi...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Mount Diablo State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top roping Lower Tier, Amazing Face at the Boy Sco...
Top roping Lower Tier, Amazing Face at the Boy Sco...
Rock Climbing Photo: Liza Butler on Chouinard's Crack, at Mt. Diablo St...
Liza Butler on Chouinard's Crack, at Mt. Diablo St...
Rock Climbing Photo: Park map with directions to locate the climbing ar...
BETA PHOTO: Park map with directions to locate the climbing ar...

Comments on Mount Diablo State Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Barker
From: Denver, CO
May 13, 2010
State park entrance fees have increased to $10. Bring your loot people!
By clustiere
Aug 11, 2012
There is soo much potential here if you don't mind finding the good rock among the bad. It's like the ugly cousin of red rocks. If this place gets more developed it will need a guidebook of its own. A fun adventure!
By James Nobles
Oct 4, 2012
Park now costs $10 per car or $9 for seniors so bring your grandma!

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