Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Lyons

Select Area...
Camp Dick 
Lion's Den, The 
Rabbit Mountain 
St. Vrain Canyons 
Steamboat Mountain 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Golden Gate State Park - Mule Deer Loop
An outstanding tour of Golden Gate State Park on beautiful trail with great flow. Near Central City, Colorado
Golden Gate State Park - Full Pull
An epic tour of the trails on offer at Golden Gate State Park. Near Central City, Colorado
Sugarloaf to Gordon Gulch Loop
An easy cruise with nice scenery, but not much singletrack. Near Boulder, Colorado
Coulson Gulch Trail
A moderate ascent/descent connecting Johnny Park Road to North Saint Vrain Creek. Near Lyons, Colorado
Winiger Ridge Trail
A singletrack out and back on a scenic ridge line. Near Coal Creek, Colorado
Mayhem Gulch Trail
Moderate climb and a great descent Near Idaho Springs, Colorado
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Lyons Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.2229, -105.27 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 85,657
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John McNamee on Mar 2, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

Description 

Lyons is a small town of approximately 1500 people located North of Boulder but part of Boulder County. It lies at the downhill end of the canyon connecting with Estes Park.

While there may be no towering cliffs here, there is some interesting climbing for those with patience to search out the hidden gems. The area nearby includes a variety of rock types, from Dakota Sandstone, a variety of sandstone layers in the cliffs just NW of town, coarse granite of the S. St. Vrain Canyon, and the smoother granite in the Button Rock area. Some of the rock here overlaps the descriptions of the Estes Valley area.

Getting There 

From Boulder follow US 36 north for approximately 10 miles. Watch out for cyclists!

Map of Lyons

Food 

Lyons is oddly a culinary hotspot which draws gourmands from a far.

Restaurants here include: Ophelia's Kitchen (burritos), Dairy Delight (for greasy burgers or soft serve), a great little Mexican restaurant (Cilantro Mary's), Soda Fountain (breakfast & sandwiches), the family restaurant (formerly the Outlaw, now Linda & Jeana's), Kokopelli's Italian, Oskar Blues Bar & Grill, Gateway Cafe (need reservations on popular evenings) ($$$), Andrea's ($$$), Black Bear Inn ($$$$)....

Tubing/Waterfun 

To be the heat after climbing on hot days, you can tube the St. Vrain after the spring runoff. Some put in above Lyons, on the south side (public land) of US 36. Some put in at the park northwest of the intersection of CO 7 and the St. Vrain. You can pullout at Bond Park.

Innertubes are sometimes sold in town for as low as $12.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.7 miles from here

495 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',21],['3 Stars',114],['2 Stars',234],['1 Star',120],['Bomb',5]
['<=5.6',31],['5.7',37],['5.8',60],['5.9',87],['5.10',119],['5.11',59],['5.12',21],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',16],['V2-3',26],['V4-5',20],['V6-7',9],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',3],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lyons

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lyons:
Get Over It   V10 7C+     Boulder   Big Elk Meadows - Boulders : The Double Trouble Boulder
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Handcrack-a-rete   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Hollow Man   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 195'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Casual Corner   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
KeeMoSabe   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock
Crooked Cross   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Sentinel
The Enthusiast aka Guided by Voices   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 130'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Rapids Rock
Panic in the Gray Room   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Sunshine Dihedral   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Upside The Cranium   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Introducing Meteor Dad   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Pocket Hercules   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Neurosurgeon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Temptation Arete   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress
Redneck Hero   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
New Horizon   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Old Yellar   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : Old Yellar Dome
Brother From Another Planet   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Le Diamant E'ternal   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lyons

Featured Route For Lyons
Rock Climbing Photo: The final moves of pitch 1 (direct variation).

Crooked Cross 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  CO : Lyons : ... : The Sentinel
Grab a 50 meter rope and head up to the beautiful crack called Crooked Cross. Hike up to the right of the rock, then scramble left to its base. Pitch one is about 120 feet and will get you to the base of the crack itself. Pitch one begins, as you look up, about 30 feet to the right of the crack, at the low point of the wall. It's a very moderate pitch, perhaps 5.5 or 5.6, and begins in a 20 foot long right facing, bushy dihedral. Work up to what appears to be rap slings, and bang a hard lef...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Lyons Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Fang from the paved parking area.
BETA PHOTO: The Fang from the paved parking area.
Rock Climbing Photo: High water in the Sheep Mtn gorge "the Califo...
High water in the Sheep Mtn gorge "the Califo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Be sure to take in some craft brews and music at O...
Be sure to take in some craft brews and music at O...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dierection.
Dierection.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kat A. follows up the powerful lieback on 'Punchli...
Kat A. follows up the powerful lieback on 'Punchli...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering at Rabbit Mountain.
Bouldering at Rabbit Mountain.
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is a shot of the cliff, with Bert leading But...
Here is a shot of the cliff, with Bert leading But...
Rock Climbing Photo: Piz Badille from the north, 8AM.
BETA PHOTO: Piz Badille from the north, 8AM.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tara leading with Jenny belaying.
Tara leading with Jenny belaying.
Rock Climbing Photo: Benny Randolf sends the route.
Benny Randolf sends the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt following P2....
Matt following P2....
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve on 5.6 Cruiser.
Steve on 5.6 Cruiser.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Watchtower in warm afternoon sun!
BETA PHOTO: The Watchtower in warm afternoon sun!

Comments on Lyons Add Comment
Show which comments
By Fred Knapp
Dec 11, 2008
Bernard Gillett's new ROCK CLIMBING ST. VRAIN CANYONS is now available. It's a 424 page comprehensive guide. You'll want to have this one if you're bored with the other canyons.
By sasso
From: loveland
Jul 26, 2013
Does anyone know the grade and names of the four or so sport routes that are right off the entrance road to Lion's Den and the starts are on the water, right below the dam?

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!