Lyons is a small town of approximately 1500 people located North of Boulder but part of Boulder County. It lies at the downhill end of the canyon connecting with Estes Park.
While there may be no towering cliffs here, there is some interesting climbing for those with patience to search out the hidden gems. The area nearby includes a variety of rock types, from Dakota Sandstone, a variety of sandstone layers in the cliffs just NW of town, coarse granite of the S. St. Vrain Canyon, and the smoother granite in the Button Rock area. Some of the rock here overlaps the descriptions of the Estes Valley area.
From Boulder follow US 36 north for approximately 10 miles. Watch out for cyclists! Map of Lyons
Lyons is oddly a culinary hotspot which draws gourmands from a far.
Restaurants here include: Ophelia's Kitchen (burritos), Dairy Delight (for greasy burgers or soft serve), a great little Mexican restaurant (Cilantro Mary's), Soda Fountain (breakfast & sandwiches), the family restaurant (formerly the Outlaw, now Linda & Jeana's), Kokopelli's Italian, Oskar Blues Bar & Grill, Gateway Cafe (need reservations on popular evenings) ($$$), Andrea's ($$$), Black Bear Inn ($$$$)....
To be the heat after climbing on hot days, you can tube the St. Vrain after the spring runoff. Some put in above Lyons, on the south side (public land) of US 36. Some put in at the park northwest of the intersection of CO 7 and the St. Vrain. You can pullout at Bond Park.
Innertubes are sometimes sold in town for as low as $12.
Weather station 6.7 miles from here
506 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',21],['3 Stars',121],['2 Stars',232],['1 Star',126],['Bomb',5]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lyons
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lyons
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lyons:
Featured Route For Lyons
Goldfinger 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c CO
: ... : The Fang
This lengthy route climbs the center of the immaculate stone to the right of Stiletto. A rock climber with even the slightest attraction towards aesthetics will be magnetically drawn to this line. Climb through a ~20 foot band of choss to a small ledge and your first bolt. Continue up the just off-vertical face on five star stone for ~55 ft, moving between good edges and flakes (10d). Clip the bolt above the small roof from a slopping rail, then catch your breath before a series of ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: The Watchtower in warm afternoon sun!
Tara leading with Jenny belaying.
Benny Randolf sends the route.
BETA PHOTO: The Fang from the paved parking area.
BETA PHOTO: Piz Badille from the north, 8AM.
Here is a shot of the cliff, with Bert leading But...
Kat A. follows up the powerful lieback on 'Punchli...
Be sure to take in some craft brews and music at O...
High water in the Sheep Mtn gorge "the Califo...
Bouldering at Rabbit Mountain.
By Fred Knapp
Dec 11, 2008
Bernard Gillett's new ROCK CLIMBING ST. VRAIN CANYONS is now available. It's a 424 page comprehensive guide. You'll want to have this one if you're bored with the other canyons.
Jul 26, 2013
Does anyone know the grade and names of the four or so sport routes that are right off the entrance road to Lion's Den and the starts are on the water, right below the dam?