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Icarus 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 225'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Amy Jordan, Aaron Miller
New Route: Yes
Season: cool
Page Views: 713
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Jan 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Aaron on "Icarus"

Description 

A fantastic route up the clean face just left of Astro Devil. Named after the Greek mythological character who was warned by his father not to fly too close to the sun or his wings of wax would melt. This tale applies to the great second pitch, which is the crux of the route.

First pitch is awkward 5.11c where, like classic Cave routes at Diablo, none of the holds are down-pulls. 3rd bolt has fixed chain draw.


Location 

This route starts at the same awkward first pitch as Astro Devil, at the right side of the Solar Cave. Climb up ten bolts where the bolt line splits, take the left track up through the fun dihedrals to a good stance. Climb the second pitch from here.

Protection 

1st pitch, about 14 bolts. 2nd pitch about 11 bolts. Both anchors bolted with chain and biners.


Photos of Icarus Slideshow Add Photo
Aaron and Amy on the second pitch of Icarus. Janua...
Aaron and Amy on the second pitch of Icarus. Janua...
Aaron well above the crux and nearing the anchors ...
Aaron well above the crux and nearing the anchors ...

Comments on Icarus Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jan 21, 2012

Amy thought the crux was more like 11+, I didn't.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 12, 2012

Icarus is the most obvious & straight-up line of the 3 climbs sharing its start. The first pitch is high quality, 105', and a good warm-up for the Solar Cave climbs. You can rappel from the pitch 1 anchors with a single 60m rope, but it might not reach if lowering through the draws. A 70m would work.

I didn't try the 2nd pitch because I thought I might not be able to get down with a single 60m rope, based on the length listed. But it looks shorter than p1 in the photos & bolt count, so please post if you know for sure. It would be nice to not have to trail a 2nd line. [edit: Thanks Aaron & Sky for the info below, sounds like I'll be ok with a 60m, look forward to trying it in cooler temps]
By Sky Sjue
From: Santa Fe
Apr 27, 2013

This is a stellar pitch! A 70 m rope is ample but I can't say for sure about a 60 m rope, George. Leaders should be conscientious about loose rock to the left .
By Naomi Galinski
May 2, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I flashed the top pitch yesterday. I don't think any of the moves were 12a, but really fun sustained 11+ climbing. Glad I had Sky's beta. It would've been a hard onsight.
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
May 15, 2013

A single 60m reaches. Make sure there is a knot in your rope! The pitch wanders and has a steep bulge so is longer than 100', but lowering must be only 90' direct to anchor.

I guess the crux sequence also climbs out left, to a loose hold? Not sure how long that sequence will last. Then we will see!!!!

I thought the direct crux sequence was aesthetic anyhow. Hard for me to get the high-step over the bulge.