Icarus 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 225 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Amy Jordan, Aaron Miller |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | cool |
| Submitted By: | Aaron Miller on Jan 21, 2012 |
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Aaron on "Icarus"
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Description A fantastic route up the clean face just left of Astro Devil. Named after the Greek mythological character who was warned by his father not to fly too close to the sun or his wings of wax would melt. This tale applies to the great second pitch, which is the crux of the route. First pitch is awkward 5.11c where, like classic Cave routes at Diablo, none of the holds are down-pulls. 3rd bolt has fixed chain draw.
Location This route starts at the same awkward first pitch as Astro Devil, at the right side of the Solar Cave. Climb up ten bolts where the bolt line splits, take the left track up through the fun dihedrals to a good stance. Climb the second pitch from here.
Protection 1st pitch, about 14 bolts. 2nd pitch about 11 bolts. Both anchors bolted with chain and biners.
Aaron and Amy on the second pitch of Icarus. Janua...
| Aaron well above the crux and nearing the anchors ...
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By Aaron Miller Jan 21, 2012
| Amy thought the crux was more like 11+, I didn't. |
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