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Golden Gate Canyon SP

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Dude's Throne 
Grendel, The 
Lazy Squaw Spire 
Little Dude 
Mt. Thorodin 
Promontory Ridge/The Bear? 
Promontory Ridge/The Cub? 
Ralston Roost 
Tremont Mountain 

Golden Gate Canyon SP Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.83694, -105.42453 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2002
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State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>


There is a backwoodsy, subalpine, state park with multiple granite crags, some of which may never have been climbed, ranging from 50 to 450 feet in height. A park fee is required to park. The rock is mostly granite ranging from 8000-10000 foot altitude. Beautiful vistas soothe your eyes from belay perches. People have been climbing here since at least the 1950s. There are mostly traditional climbs; however, sport-ish climbs are appearing here more recently. Some approaches exceed an hour. Rocks here include: Mount Thorodin's 1st, 2nd, & 3rd buttresses; Ralston Roost; Son of Ralston; Raven Knob, Odin's Good Eye, Odin's Rib Cage, Tremont Mountain, The Bear, The Cub, The Rainbow Bridge, Odin's Throne, rocks near the campgrounds, a bizarre spire named Lazy Squaw Spire, Dude's Throne, Little Dude's Throne, and The Grendel. There are other intriguing looking crags visible from the road to Panorama Point. Some fixed gear is quite suspect (I pulled an angle out with only light finger pressure).

Getting There 

From CO Hwy 93 just North of Golden, follow the Golden Gate Canyon road perhaps 18 miles to Golden Gate Canyon State Park. There are multiple crags in the area. The biggest are off Mt Thorodin, accessed & visible from Panorama Point, up the windy road past Kriley Pond. Lazy Squaw Spire can be accessed from the Lazy Squaw Ranch near Panorama Point. Son of Ralston & Ralston Roost can be accessed from Golden Gate Canyon Road.

An alternative routes in which feel very nice include: via White Ranch Park & Golden on Crawford Gulch Rd; via CO 199 and Gilpin Rd/Gap Rd; and via CO 119 to Hwy 46; via Coal Creek Canyon (CO 72), Twin Spruce (near the Bus Sandwich Shop), then Gap Rd.


There is camping here both backcountry and at established campgrounds. The backcountry campsites include: Forgotten Valley, Deer Creek, Frazer Meadow, Rim Meadow, and Greenfield Meadow. These campgrounds include Rifleman Phillips Group Campground (reservations only), Reverend's Ridge Campground (limited winter facilities), and Aspen Meadows Campground (closed in winter). There are also accomodations at Harmsen Ranch Guest House by reservation.

Maximum camping stay in the park is 14 days within any 45-day period.


Golden Gate Canyon SP website.


Note, there is hunting permitted on the northeastern corner of the park after Labor Day to prior to Memorial Day.

There is also hunting in the Ralston Creek State Wildlife Area to the southeast of the park.


Pets must be kept under control and on a leash.


Please note that there are regulations on bolting within the state park that require permits for any new bolts. Crystal Dreiling, senior ranger for GGCSP, will advise us on additional information.


Please try to avoid erosional problems with approaches to climbs and social trails.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.6 miles from here

81 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',37],['1 Star',15],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Golden Gate Canyon SP

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Golden Gate Canyon SP:
Paddling About   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Mt. Thorodin
Mother Grendel   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Grendel
Mighty Aphrodite   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Dude's Throne
Daneland   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   The Grendel
Dude's Jam Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Dude's Throne
Short Dude   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Dude's Throne
Dude's Way   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Dude's Throne
Dude's Dihedral   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Dude's Throne
Howdy Doody Time   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Dude's Throne
Pierced Lip Lock   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Grendel
Uplift Mofo Party Plan   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Dude's Throne
Green Chile   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Dude's Throne
Golden Gate   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Dude's Throne
Sky Chi   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Dude's Throne
Impeachment Day Parade   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Dude's Throne
Open Space Cowboy   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Dude's Throne
Major Dude   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Dude's Throne
Brass Monkey   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Dude's Throne
Double Dominatrix   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Dude's Throne
Buster Brown   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Dude's Throne
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Golden Gate Canyon SP

Featured Route For Golden Gate Canyon SP
Rock Climbing Photo: Purple dots are approximate bolt locations (photo ...

Uplift Mofo Party Plan 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CO : Golden : ... : Dude's Throne
Solve the first steep crux then turn on the afterburners and brachiate from huge rail-jug to rail-jug as the pump factor clock ticks down. Be ready for sustained steepness with big throws all the way to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Golden Gate Canyon SP Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Jugs Out For The Lads", an enjoyable ro...
"Jugs Out For The Lads", an enjoyable ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Thoridin's 1st, 2nd, & 3rd buttresses.
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Thoridin's 1st, 2nd, & 3rd buttresses.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wendy Weiss following Howdy Doody Time on Dude's C...
Wendy Weiss following Howdy Doody Time on Dude's C...
Rock Climbing Photo: Along the ridge of Mt. Thorodin.
Along the ridge of Mt. Thorodin.
Rock Climbing Photo: Along the ridge of Mt. Thorodin. View of the 3rd f...
Along the ridge of Mt. Thorodin. View of the 3rd f...
Rock Climbing Photo: More beautiful ridgeline on Mt. Thorodin. Wish it ...
More beautiful ridgeline on Mt. Thorodin. Wish it ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lazy Squaw Spire.
BETA PHOTO: Lazy Squaw Spire.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kirk Miller on Golden Gate, Photo by Vaino Kodas.
Kirk Miller on Golden Gate, Photo by Vaino Kodas.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Rolofson climbs Red Hot Chili Pepper in the T...
Mark Rolofson climbs Red Hot Chili Pepper in the T...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view down while solo on the CMC route. The &qu...
The view down while solo on the CMC route. The &qu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jolly Rancher.
Jolly Rancher.
Rock Climbing Photo: A curious chunk of rock below Lazy Squaw Spire.
A curious chunk of rock below Lazy Squaw Spire.

Comments on Golden Gate Canyon SP Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
May 14, 2004
Have lived in sight of Golden Gate State Park for 40 years. It is called Mt. Thorodin, not Thoridin. The name is a combination of Thor and Odin. I therefore think it much more fitting for climbers to call the granite crag system: Ragnarok Ridge rather than the awful "Reverend Ridge", the name given by the State. It also fits with the crags: there is a formation that looks exactly like "Odin's Good Eye" (near the center, below the upper formations), another I call Odin's Rib Cage (the furthest North), "The Rainbow Bridge" (the southernmost), and Odin's Throne (the 2nd crag with "Misty" et al.) I hope others agree with my designations. Thanks: I'll be up there this summer doing a few (easy) new routes. There are lots of them still left.
By Kirk Ranney
Jul 23, 2006
If anyone has more beta regarding the crags not listed here, please let me know. Is there a guidebook containing any info? I am interested in easy/moderate lines, feel free to email me if you have any suggestions.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 23, 2006
Without my guidebooks, I recall this being listed in Hubbel's Colorado Crags & ?a smaller guidebook by Hubbel...perhaps the Lyon's guide? Beyond that, I can't recall seeing other published materials.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 4, 2007
Yes, it's in the Falcon Guide Classic Climbs Lyons Area guide book by Peter Hubbel.
By Mark Rolofson
Sep 23, 2010
I just wrote and published a new guidebook titled "Golden Rock Climbs" that includes the climbs near Aspen Meadow Campground and Dude's Fishing Hole. These are some of my favorite sport climbs in the state of Colorado. There are about 50 routes. Enjoy from Spring to Fall. Lots of good overhanging routes for a pump. This guide is also for North Table Mountain with the four newly developed quarry walls.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 23, 2010
Nice, Mark!!!!
By Mike Morin
From: On the Road
Sep 23, 2010
I dig the book, Mark. We've been enjoying Dude's for a while now and are psyched to check out Grendel, which has always looked intriguing from afar. It's nice to know that we still might have a quiet sport place up in the park due to the longer approach. Thanks for the hard work put in by yourself and the other fellas.
By David "The Phoenix" Hall
From: Littleton, CO
Mar 22, 2011
Does anyone know any info on bouldering in the area? There are several boulders that can be seen from the visitor's center (looking north) that I checked out the other day and spent half my time cleaning. So it would seem that they've either, never been climbed before (which I find hard to believe), or that they just haven't been climbed in quite a long time.
By FlyinRyan
Aug 25, 2011
Can someone please move the map marker for this place? It is at least 30 min out from Golden, but it shows right in the middle of the city. Nice place to climb, has plenty of bolted routes but they are green due to lack of traffic. You should definitely check it out!
By AdamL.
Jun 10, 2015
Any info on bouldering? I see a pic that is called the Dude Boulders.

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