Elevation: 10,400 ft
GPS: 39.883, -105.432 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 37,898 total · 170/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: State Park - Fee Required. Details

Description

This is likely the best of the climbing at Golden Gate State Park. There are at least 3 crags here. All are visible from the Panorama Point. These crags are up to 450 feet in height. The rock is decent to excellent granite, generally less than vertical, filled with many cracks. Access is via faint trails or bushwhacking from Panorama Point with hikes to 1+ hours. These are generally west-facing, so you can generally watch the weather come in. The views are pleasant.

This is a sub-alpine climbing area at an elevation of ~10,000'.

For now, the crowds are not here.

Getting There

From Golden, head North on CO Hwy 93, head West up Golden Gate Canyon Rd to the park, turn right up the road past Kriley Pond ,and switchback to a gravel road. Follow the signs to Panorama Point. Hike. FWIW, we used to leave some adventure in these sub-alpine climbs & approaches.

Per Lee Smith: instead of hiking directly from Panorama Point, head down the road (east) for about 1/10th of a mile until the crag is due north and then head into the woods. It is much faster than starting right at Panorama Point.

Per Tim Stich: from Panorama Point, take the Raccoon Trail north along the road. It will then curve left towards the crags into the woods. Hike along pleasant meadows, and cross a small brook. Into the aspens you'll go, and then you'll notice the trail sharply turn left and down by a large, fallen tree. Go right around this dead tree's roots, and you'll see what looks like a faint road heading off north again. It's so old that trees now grow in the ruts. Walk along this path until you see tree branches laid down on the ground on both sides of a trail. This will head uphill to your right. Follow this until you meet a boulderfield. You are now just below the First Buttress. Look for a series of cairns, and try hard to follow them across the bottom of the First Buttress, which will then come into view. Keep following the cairns, and they will head uphill. You'll end up at the lower edge of the boulderfield for the Second Buttress, which is where most of the good routes are.

Per Klaw Klimbs: the dead tree is harder to see coming to the climber's trail and easier to see heading back. The aspen grove starts on your right, while you have a good view of the first buttress. You continue down the trail for a while, as the aspen grove thickens and moves over to the left side of the path as well. You are going slowly downhill. Eventually the trail enters some easy switchbacks. You'll see another Raccoon Trail trail marker, and then the trail takes a sharp, right turn (see my photo). This is your cue to begin looking for the cairn on the right marking the climber's trail, as well as the harder-to-see dead tree/root ball on the left. I don't think the trail resembles a road much anymore now in June 2019. Pine needles have thoroughly carpeted the forest floor, and there is now plenty of vegetation growing in the first part of the climber's trail, making it indistinct, especially seen from the Raccoon Trail. There is a cairn marking the beginning of the trail, and while the trail doesn't appear well-traveled, you can see the trees that are beginning to line both sides of the faint path (see my photo). Trees lining the path were added to/replaced today, June 29, 2019. Cairns up to the boulderfield below the first buttress/slab have also been rebuilt. There are still some large trees you have to step over, but we removed all fallen trees that were too high to step over. This trail would be difficult to follow if there were snow. 

Regulations

Mt. Thoridin is partly on Golden Gate Canyon SP land. Any new fixed hardware requires park approval on GGCSP land. Thank you.

19 Total Climbs

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Location: Mt. Thorodin Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Thorodin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
CMC Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Northwest Ridge
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Tenzing's Route
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
The Zephyr
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Chinook
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Mr. Misty
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Unknown
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Pope on Dope
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Thorodin's Hammer
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
CMC Route
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Northwest Ridge
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Tenzing's Route
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Zephyr
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Chinook
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Mr. Misty
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Unknown
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Pope on Dope
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Thorodin's Hammer
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
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