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Routes in Mt. Thorodin

CMC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chinook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Love of Mothernot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Misty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outland T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paddling About T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Paddling About Variant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Papal Bull T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Piecemeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pope on Dope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tenzing's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thorodin Ridge Scramble T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Thorodin's Hammer S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Variation to For Love of Mothernot T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Zephyr, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Elevation: 10,400 ft
GPS: 39.883, -105.432 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 26,741 total · 133/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details

Description

This is likely the best of the climbing at Golden Gate State Park. There are at least 3 crags here. All are visible from the Panorama Point. These crags are up to 450 feet in height. The rock is decent to excellent granite, generally less than vertical, filled with many cracks. Access is via faint trails or bushwhacking from Panorama Point with hikes to 1+ hours. These are generally west-facing, so you can generally watch the weather come in. The views are pleasant.

This is a sub-alpine climbing area at an elevation of ~10,000'.

For now, the crowds are not here.

Getting There

From Golden, head N on CO Hwy 93, head W up Golden Gate Canyon Rd to the park, turn R up the road past Kriley Pond and switchback to a gravel road. Follow the signs to Panorama Point. Hike.

Per Lee Smith: instead of hiking directly from Panorama Point, head down the road (east) for about 1/10th of a mile until the crag is due north and then head into the woods. It is much faster than starting right at Panorama Point.

Regulations

Mt. Thoridin is partly on Golden Gate Canyon SP land. Any new fixed hardware requires park approval on GGCSP land. Thank you.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Thorodin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 29
CMC Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
Northwest Ridge
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Tenzing's Route
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
The Zephyr
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Chinook
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Mr. Misty
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Unknown
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Pope on Dope
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Thorodin's Hammer
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
CMC Route
 29
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Northwest Ridge
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Tenzing's Route
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Zephyr
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Chinook
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Mr. Misty
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Unknown
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Pope on Dope
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Thorodin's Hammer
 3
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
RE: the approach; instead of bee-lining, use contouring and target yourself to move around the base of the lower slab (as seen in the above-pic) moving from south to north (the rock-climbing is west aspect) to enter the boulder field; see the cairn fairy appear (we actually did pick up the faint trail). Use countouring to get back to Panorama Point, I found the hike an enjoyable short wilderness experience and free of loose scree/talus. Jun 19, 2006
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
From right to left in the beta photo you have the First Buttress, Second Buttress, and Third Buttress. The formation between and in front of the First and Second Buttress is Thorodin Slab. Jul 16, 2007
Instead of hiking directly from Panorama Point, head down the road (east) for about 1/10th of a mile until the crag is due north and then head into the woods. It is much faster than starting right at Panorama Point.
We had the whole place to ourselves all day on a Saturday. This is really a great and lonesome crag. I will be back. Sep 9, 2007
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
I climbed several routes on the first buttress, roughly 150ft right of Twin Cracks in a left-facing alcove. Hubbel refers to this on p.94 of his Front Range Crags book as "steep, hard cracks in west-facing alcove" but didn't say if they had been done before or not. Anyone climb them before me? There's a pic above which lists all three routes, which go from left to right at 5.9, 5.10b, 5.10c Jun 21, 2008
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Did either a link-up or a new route last Saturday combining the obvious ramp to the right of the start of the CMC route and then found features that led back to the left to a narrow walkway just before the summit ride I named The Paso Del Muerte (always loved that name in Mexican caves). I made a hand-drawn topo but would like to overlay it on a better photo sometime. Jul 5, 2010

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