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The Grendel Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Grendel

L › R R › L A › Z

	Academic Freedom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Beowoof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Beowulf S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Beyond the Pale T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Daneland S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Exit Stage Right S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Freedom Fighter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Hrunting T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Leitner Route S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Monster Mash, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mother Grendel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Nægling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pebble In The Sky S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Pierced Lip Lock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Strong Arm Tactics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

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Elevation:	10,000 ft
GPS:	39.87665, -105.41914 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	34,653 total · 230/month
Shared By:	Kirk Miller on May 8, 2011
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: State Park - Fee Required. Details

Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $10 (2021) fee is required for entrance. Cash/Check only accepted; Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park. Annual passes can be purchased for $60.

Description

The Grendel looms over the surrounding area from high on the ridge, behind and above [Redacted] Spire. This crag has highly featured, weathered alpine granite and has yielded several quality sport climbs. From below, it looks bigger than it turns out to be, yet a 70 meter rope is recommended as several of the routes go the distance.

L->R:

West Face.

A. Beyond the Pale, 8+, 1p, 125', gear.

Southwest Face

B. Beowoof, 9+, 1p, 85', gear.
C. Beowulf, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts.
D. Daneland, 10, 1p, 110', bolts.
E. Pebble In The Sky, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Freedom Fighter, 11+ - 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. Pierced Lip Lock, 11, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Academic Freedom, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.

Southeast Face

I. Hrunting, 10+, 1p, 60', bolts.
J. Nægling, 10, 1p, 50', gear.
K. Exit Stage Right, 8, 1p, 70', bolts.
L. Mother Grendel, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts.
M. Leitner Route, 10+, 1p, 45', bolts.
N. Strong Arm Tactics, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
O. The Monster Mash, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts.

Getting There

Park in the Aspen Meadows campground, and walk back out the entry road. Cross Gap Road and enter the woods directly across from and in line with the campground entry road. Once you encounter the powerline road in the woods, look for cairns marking an old road heading into the forest. Follow old roads, keeping an eye out for cairns, until you find your way up the hill to the saddle area surrounding The [Redacted] Spire. Follow cairns up the hillside below The Grendel to the crag. The approach takes about 45 minutes.

Per Rich Kelly: the approach is 0.7 miles, 800' gain.

Regulations

Eds. Please note that after discussion with GGCSP, the Grendel appears to be within Golden Gate Canyon State Park and thus is subject to its regulations. Hence, any new fixed hardware requires Park approval. However, further investigation of park boundaries could impact this. Thank you.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Grendel

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 66 ● Mother Grendel Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 44 ● The Monster Mash Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 35 ● Daneland Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 27 ● Leitner Route Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 39 ● Pierced Lip Lock Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 17 ● Strong Arm Tactics Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 6 ● Academic Freedom Sport