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Routes in The Grendel

Academic Freedom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beowulf S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beyond the Pale T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daneland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exit Stage Right S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freedom Fighter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hrunting T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Leitner Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monster Mash, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mother Grendel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebble In The Sky S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pierced Lip Lock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm Tactics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Elevation: 10,000 ft
GPS: 39.877, -105.419 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Kirk Miller on May 8, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Getting weather forecast...

Description

The Grendel looms over the surrounding area from high on the ridge, behind and above Squaw Spire. This crag has highly featured, weathered alpine granite and has yielded several quality sport climbs. From below, it looks bigger than it turns out to be, yet a 70 meter rope is recommended as several of the routes go the distance.
State Park; Fee Required. Details

L->R:

West Face.

A. Beyond the Pale, 8+, 1p, 125', gear.

Southwest Face

B. Beowulf, 11-, 1p, 80', bolts.
C. Daneland, 10, 1p, 110', bolts.
D. Pebble In The Sky, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Freedom Fighter, 11+ - 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Pierced Lip Lock, 11, 1p, 80', bolts.
G. Academic Freedom, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.

Southeast Face

H. Hrunting, 10+, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Exit Stage Right, 8, 1p, 70', bolts.
J. Mother Grendel, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts.
K. Leitner Route, 10+, 1p, 45', bolts.
L. Strong Arm Tactics, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
M. The Monster Mash, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts.

Getting There

Park in the Aspen Meadows campground, and walk back out the entry road. Cross Gap Road and enter the woods directly across from and in line with the campground entry road. Once you encounter the powerline road in the woods, look for cairns marking an old road heading into the forest. Follow old roads, keeping an eye out for cairns, until you find your way up the hill to the saddle area surrounding The Squaw. Follow cairns up the hillside below The Grendel to the crag. The approach takes about 45 minutes.

Per Rich Kelly: the approach is 0.7 miles, 800' gain.

Regulations

Eds. Please note that after discussion with GGCSP, the Grendel appears to be within Golden Gate Canyon State Park and thus is subject to its regulations. Hence, any new fixed hardware requires Park approval. However, further investigation of park boundaries could impact this. Thank you.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Grendel

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Rich Kelly
Boulder
Rich Kelly   Boulder
Approach took us 30 minutes and according to my gps watch, it is 0.7 miles, 800' gain and the base sits at 10,000'. Jun 25, 2016
How busy is this crag? We're looking for a good crag to train our dogs to be more comfortable with us climbing, opposed to them crying the whole time. Naturally we don't want to bother others with our whiny dogs. Mar 16, 2015
J. Fell  
Was at Grendel on 8/16 and found a pair of La Sportiva climbing shoes. If they're yours, hit me up with a description and I'll get them back to you. Aug 17, 2014
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
The route left of Pierced Lip Lock is Freedom Fighter, 11d. FA Mark Rolofson, Kirk Miller. Jun 24, 2014
Does anyone know the name of the route just to the left of Pierced Lip Lock? Its anchor is about twenty feet below and just to the left of the anchor for PLL. The route starts with some steep, burly pulling on large holds, eases off a bit, and then has some thin, balancy moves. I thought the rating was about mid-11.

We had a good time up there yesterday. Thanks to the developers for the nice trail and fun routes. Jun 22, 2014
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
Thanks Kevin,
Glad to see the trail is being used. When we developed the crag, one concern was to establish a consistent route to curtail wandering in the woods and the social trails that result. Jun 25, 2012
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
Whomever has done the trail work here, awesome job! Been to a lot of remote ares that do not even compare. We made the approach in 30 minutes, first time, and with a 6 year old. Jun 25, 2012
ErikaNW
Golden, CO
ErikaNW   Golden, CO
From the description 'keep an eye out for cairns', I thought the trail might be hard to find - quite the opposite. There are creative and artistically placed cairns that made the hike extra enjoyable! Thank you to the cairn builder.... Jun 2, 2012
Andrew S.
Bouldurr
Andrew S.   Bouldurr
You simply cannot go wrong with the climbing here. If the approach doesn't get you psyched, the climbs will. Looking forward to getting up there again real soon. Jul 27, 2011
For complete, detailed information to the approach and all the routes on this crag, see the final pages of my guidebook "Golden Rock Climbs". The Grendel was a well kept secret for many years. It has a brilliant 100 foot 5.9, a few good 5.11s, and two 5.12s. Jul 19, 2011

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