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Frankenstein Ice Climbs

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"In the Forest" Area 
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Arethusa Falls 
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South face 
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Frankenstein Ice Climbs Rock Climbing 

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Location: 44.15824, -71.36893 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 141,269
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 25, 2006
This Afternoon

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44° | 36°

37° | 25°

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Dracula left. Lauren Wilson.


The training grounds... Every Experienced ice climber in NH has spent time cutting their teeth at Frankenstein... It seem like it was designed for the sport, with routes of all grades within a short easy walk from the car... One might start out on Standard Route or one of the easy slabs on there first day out then realize that there is a route for every step of the progression from novice to the skill required to climb the hardest routes anywhere...
Far from the commitment required to climb on Cannon or Lake Willoughby Frankenstein is great for developing the skills on short routes so you have them to work with when you are ready to commit to something a little more uncertain...

Most routes are 1-2 pitches some maybe 3 and there really are routes of every grade... Some classics are Standard Route(3), Chia(3+), Pegasus(3+/4), Dracula(4+), Dropline(5), if things get crowded don't worry these classics are just the tip of the iceburg, look around and you will find more quality ice than you know what to do with... Most routes come in consistently though there are some that will only appear sporadically, you can normally count on having something to climb from December to March but hey we are in New Hampshire and weather is far from an exact science around here...

From the parking area you will hike along a railroad track and look for the ice up the hill on your left the first big ice you will see is Smear(3) a wide flow that can be thin in early season look for a steep ramp running up from right to left...This is followed by the Amphitheater which holds many quality lines... You can check Amphitheater conditions by looking over from the Trestle... Across the Trestle you will get to Standard Route Dracula Area and finally the Hanging Gardens... If you can't find something you like in any of these areas you simply don't like ice climbing...

The cliffs are north facing so plan on being in the shade unless you pick the right route and time it just right... Dress warm cause those belays can get pretty cold when the wind is whipping down the notch...

Getting There 

Located in Crawford Notch on Route 302

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.3 miles from here

39 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Frankenstein Ice Climbs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Frankenstein Ice Climbs:
Bob's Delight   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Amphitheater Area
Cocaine   WI4+     Ice, 2 pitches   South face
Chia Direct   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch   Amphitheater Area
Welcome to the Machine   WI4-5     Ice   Dropline Area
Main Flow   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   Arethusa Falls
Dripethusa   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   Arethusa Falls
Without Reason   WI5+     Ice, 45'   Hanging Gardens
The Coffin   WI4+     Ice, 2 pitches, 150'   Dropline Area
Walk in the Forest   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   "In the Forest" Area
Standard Right   WI3-4     Ice, 2 pitches   Standard Route Area
Widows Walk   WI5     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Amphitheater Area
Hobbit Couloir   WI4+     Ice, 200'   Amphitheater Area
Chia   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Amphitheater Area
Standard Route   WI3+     Ice, 2 pitches, 300'   Standard Route Area
Pegasus   WI3+     Ice, 200'   Amphitheater Area
Dropline   WI5     Ice   Dropline Area
Smear   WI3-4     Ice, 1 pitch   Amphitheater Area
The Penguin   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches   Standard Route Area
Pegasus Rock Finish   WI3 M3     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Amphitheater Area
Dracula   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Dropline Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Frankenstein Ice Climbs

Featured Route For Frankenstein Ice Climbs
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on the 20 or so foot section of the Pegasus R...

Pegasus Rock Finish WI3 M3  NH : * NH Ice and Mixed Climbing : ... : Amphitheater Area
A really cool intro to mixed climbing... The climbing is moderate, well protected and everywhere you stick your tool you find just what you want... A must do if you are interested at all in dry tooling...Pitch 1: climb the regular start to Pegasus then move right to a 2 bolt belay between a short pillar and the Hobbit gully...Pitch 2: Climb the short steep pillar left of the belay then up in to the corner... Clip pins and sink in to perfect dry-tooling up the corner stemming when possible... the...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Frankenstein Ice Climbs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: PW and Ron at the Standard Route Belay
PW and Ron at the Standard Route Belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Classic frankenstein view
Classic frankenstein view

Comments on Frankenstein Ice Climbs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joel Pastuszak
From: Concord, NH
Jun 17, 2007
I agree, I've heard great things about this area and was kind of dissapointed when there was't much info to speak of.
By reddirt
Mar 19, 2008
Frankenstein is to ice climbing what Stately Pleasure Dome is to rock climbing... practically drive though (ok, Frankenstein actually has a short approach, it's not quite fall out of your car & start belaying).

no sense in reinventing the wheel. More beta at

also click around on, chauvinguides.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 19, 2008
hopefully this wheel will be better than the old one... i have nothing against the existing sites but i feel at home on the Proj...
By Luc
From: Montreal, Quebec
Jan 13, 2015
Was looking at the routes on NEIce, too bad no-one has added the south face here.
By Kristian Starheim
From: Boston, MA
Jan 19, 2015
Yes, where is the south-face? Would love to see some info about these beautiful flows!

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