All Locations > New Hampshire > NH Ice & Mixed > Frankenstein Ice > 7. Dropline Area

Dracula

Name: Dracula
Rating: 3.9

WI4+

Routes in 7. Dropline Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Buried Alive WI3-4
	Coffin, The WI4+
	Dracula WI4+
	Dropline WI5
	Last Exit T WI5
	Welcome to the Machine WI4-5

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Type:	Ice, 110 ft (33 m)
FA:	Left -- J. Bragg and A.J. LaFleur, 1973. Right -- D. Bard, 1977
Page Views:	20,201 total · 100/month
Shared By:	Kris Gorny on Feb 1, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. Details

The Conway Scenic Railroad will be active in Crawford Notch this winter. It is critically important for climbers to avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. In an effort to minimize time spent on the tracks we are asking that you please take the Frankenstein Cliff Trail to the Amphitheater when climbing at Frankenstein, instead of walking on the tracks directly from the parking lot. Please do not leave packs, gear, or ropes on or near the rails, and avoid belaying near the tracks. Be prepared for trains to pass at any time, all winter.

The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.

Description

The icefall derives its name from perhaps some resemblance to Dracula's winged cape. The climb is well visible from the road.

Moderate and one of the most popular climbs at Frankenstein. Almost always in.

Dracula left side: easiest way to go up, about WI4 (easier if hooked). There's a pin at 1/3 height.

2023 NOTE - See COMMENT, left May no longer be easier. R. Hall, Admin

Dracula Center: the steepest line is WI4+/5, depending on conditions (easier than Dropline though).

Dracula right side: Slightly harder than the left, WI4/4+. An ice dihedral toward the top will take away some of the sting. If the corner has filled in, expect harder climbing.

You can not rap this route with a 60. Possible to TR with a 70 -> don't park here on a busy weekend, it's a lead route.

Common to have parties on the left and right side

Get there early or get in line.

Location

From the Standard Route walk about 150 yards along the tracks and locate the trail leading up towards the corner with Dracula.

Protection

Ice screws. Slings with rap rings wrapped around trees (for both, the left and right sides). Left side once had some fixed pro in the rock at 1/3 of its length, but the fixed pin is no longer there.

To descend, either rap from the slings or walk off the cliff to the right (trail).