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Routes in Dropline Area

Coffin, The WI4+
Dracula WI4+
Dropline WI5
Welcome to the Machine WI4-5
Type: Ice, 100 ft
FA: Left -- J. Bragg and A.J. LaFleur, 1973. Right -- D. Bard, 1977
Page Views: 10,838 total, 91/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Feb 1, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The icefall derives its name from perhaps some resemblance to Dracula's winged cape. The climb is well visible from the road.

Moderate and one of the most popular climbs at Frankenstein. Almost always in.

Dracula left side: easiest way to go up, about WI4 (easier if hooked). There's a at 1/3 height.

Dracula Center:
the steepest line is WI4+/5, depending on conditions (easier than Dropline though).

Dracula right side:
Slightly harder than the left, WI4/4+. An ice dihedral toward the top will take away some of the sting. If the corner has filled in, expect harder climbing.

You can not rap this route with a 60. Possible to TR with a 70 -> don't park here on a busy weekend, it's a lead route.

Common to have parties on the left and right side ,.

Get there early or get in line.

Location

From the Standard Route walk about 150 yards along the tracks and locate the trail leading up towards the corner with Dracula.

Protection

Ice screws. Slings with rap rings wrapped around trees (for both, the left and right sides). Left side has some fixed pro in the rock at 1/3 of its length.

To descend, either rap from the slings or walk off the cliff to the right (trail).
Kris Gorny    
 
Description updated. Thank you for suggestions, Chris. Jan 23, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Thanks Chris. You can use that blue 'Improve this Page' button above. It sends a note to the original poster so they have more chance of noticing your suggestions and also to the area admins. I wish more people would use that feature so the descriptions can keep being improved and updated. Jan 22, 2016
This route is deserving of a better description.

Dracula left: usually around 3+, hookfest with good feet. If the ice is fresh (rare, popular!) it'll clock in at 4. There's a pin at 1/3 height. Not worth clipping unless you plan to bail.

Dracula center: Find the steepest line you can. 5.

Dracula right: Slightly harder than the left, 4. An ice dihedral toward the top will take away some of the sting. If the corner has filled in, expect harder climbing.

You can not rap this route with a 60. Possible to TR with a 70 -> don't park here on a busy weekend, it's a lead route.

Common to have parties on the left and right side simultaneously. Jan 22, 2016