Type: Ice, 110 ft
FA: Left -- J. Bragg and A.J. LaFleur, 1973. Right -- D. Bard, 1977
Page Views: 15,023 total · 99/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Feb 1, 2008 with improvements by Bogdan P
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

The icefall derives its name from perhaps some resemblance to Dracula's winged cape. The climb is well visible from the road.

Moderate and one of the most popular climbs at Frankenstein. Almost always in.

Dracula left side: easiest way to go up, about WI4 (easier if hooked). There's a
Russell Talbot on the left-hand side of Dracula. Fixed piece visible on the left. at 1/3 height.

Dracula Center:
the steepest line is WI4+/5, depending on conditions (easier than Dropline though).

Dracula right side:
Slightly harder than the left, WI4/4+. An ice dihedral toward the top will take away some of the sting. If the corner has filled in, expect harder climbing.

You can not rap this route with a 60. Possible to TR with a 70 -> don't park here on a busy weekend, it's a lead route.

Common to have parties on the left and right side
Dracula on January 26, 2008. Climbers of left and right-hand variations (Talbot Russell and Pat McCarthy) ,.

Get there early or get in line.

Location

From the Standard Route walk about 150 yards along the tracks and locate the trail leading up towards the corner with Dracula.

Protection

Ice screws. Slings with rap rings wrapped around trees (for both, the left and right sides). Left side has some fixed pro in the rock at 1/3 of its length.

To descend, either rap from the slings or walk off the cliff to the right (trail).

Photos