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Routes in 7. Dropline Area
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Buried Alive WI3-4 |
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Coffin, The WI4+ |
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Dracula WI4+ |
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Dropline WI5 |
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Last Exit T WI5 |
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Welcome to the Machine WI4-5 |
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| Type: | Ice |
| FA: | Rainsford Rouner, peter Cole and Rick Wilcox, Feb 1976 |
| Page Views: | 10,357 total · 51/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Feb 21, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible.
Details
The Conway Scenic Railroad will be active in Crawford Notch this winter. It is critically important for climbers to avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. In an effort to minimize time spent on the tracks we are asking that you please take the Frankenstein Cliff Trail to the Amphitheater when climbing at Frankenstein, instead of walking on the tracks directly from the parking lot. Please do not leave packs, gear, or ropes on or near the rails, and avoid belaying near the tracks. Be prepared for trains to pass at any time, all winter.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Description
This was a very sought after line that many tried before it went down in February 1976. To think that it was climbed with the equipment that was available then is quite impressive. When I look at the state of the art gear I'm climbing with and look at intimidating routes like this that were climbed before I was born on gear that would send me back a few grades it just amazes me.
Pitch 1: Start below the painfully obvious perfect drip on the wall above. Climb the normally very thin slab which is more scary than difficult due to the lack of protection. Really it's maybe grade 3 climbing but the higher up you get the harder it seems. As you get toward the top you can get a couple screws in but by that point you are through the worst of the first pitch. As you get to the base of the main icicle step to the left to a sheltered belay stance. We belayed from a few medium sized cams.
Pitch 2: Well if you are leading this pitch take a deep breath and commit yourself. You are looking at a long and pretty much straight up icicle that is usually only a few feet thick when it's in good. The bottom can be hollow but as a whole it is solid. Fighting the pump is the name of the game and if you are well-conditioned to steep pumpy climb it might be just a nice way to spend a day. To many it represents an ultimate goal. However you look at this climb you will no doubt agree that it is a classic. Top out the cliff and hit the trees for a nice view while you belay.
Pitch 1: Start below the painfully obvious perfect drip on the wall above. Climb the normally very thin slab which is more scary than difficult due to the lack of protection. Really it's maybe grade 3 climbing but the higher up you get the harder it seems. As you get toward the top you can get a couple screws in but by that point you are through the worst of the first pitch. As you get to the base of the main icicle step to the left to a sheltered belay stance. We belayed from a few medium sized cams.
Pitch 2: Well if you are leading this pitch take a deep breath and commit yourself. You are looking at a long and pretty much straight up icicle that is usually only a few feet thick when it's in good. The bottom can be hollow but as a whole it is solid. Fighting the pump is the name of the game and if you are well-conditioned to steep pumpy climb it might be just a nice way to spend a day. To many it represents an ultimate goal. However you look at this climb you will no doubt agree that it is a classic. Top out the cliff and hit the trees for a nice view while you belay.
Photos
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