Great area for the beginners (5.5 to 5.9-) with a few challenging routes on the eastern wall (5.11a to 5.13a). Almost all if not all can be top roped.
There are 5 bolted routes on the western end of the wall; 5.8 being the easiest and getting harder as you go left or east. Also on this end there are 2 or 3 sets of chains to set up top ropes, the climbing is probably about 5.5 to 5.7.
There are some trees you can use as well for anchors, bring long runners.
The harder climbing is located about 200-300 yards upstream or east. The hardest of the bunch, a 5.13a, is the only bolted route on this end.
The crag stays in the shade most of the morning in the summer.
Drive about 1 mile up the canyon and you sill see the Dogwood picnic area on your right. You can either park in here for $5 dollars a car or if the stream is low enough you can drive another .15 up the canyon and park on the side of the road and just hop across the stream.
Fun climbing with a good range of routes and no approach-which is why it gets PACKED. Don't even try after work unless you like crowds and waiting. Even so, sitting next to a stream in the shade with other climbers is not a bad place to wait.
The new route next to goin bald .9 is called unforgivin .10a put up in 02? by Chris Begue, Liz Cannon, and others. Only drawback is the wet start in spring and early summer. Mostly .8/.9 climbing with one crux move, though it is easier if you wander so stay true to gravity and a drop of water.