Dogwood Crag 

Fun climbing with a good range of routes and no approach-which is why it gets PACKED. Don't even try after work unless you like crowds and waiting. Even so, sitting next to a stream in the shade with other climbers is not a bad place to wait.

Last time up there I saw a new bolted line just east of I Think I'm Going Bald. Any Info??

This place gets busy fast. We showed up at 8:30 and had it to ourselves today (saturday), but at 9:30 there were suddenly 20 people toproping.

River was low enough to walk across, but couldn't do any of the middle routes without a silly little traverse and a horrible belay position. Was kinda fun though.

The new route next to goin bald .9 is called unforgivin .10a put up in 02? by Chris Begue, Liz Cannon, and others. Only drawback is the wet start in spring and early summer. Mostly .8/.9 climbing with one crux move, though it is easier if you wander so stay true to gravity and a drop of water.

Walking through the picnic area, as long as you're not parking there, is free--the guide says you have to pay $2.