Quartzite Sans Stainless
Avg: 2.4 from 20 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|FA:||Unknown. Liron Gokovski and I climbed it on 9/4/2013. Variant finish 5.8 by Sam Cannon, 7/17/2014|
|Page Views:||1,325 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Lenz on Sep 6, 2013|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThis route looks unappealing from below, but we found it to have interesting and pleasant face and crack climbing with a distinctly wild finish. There is some dirt on the bottom face, and a little guano to the left, but you need not touch the guano.
LocationImmediately to the climbers right of "Cross Eyed and Painless," and "Little Creatures," and to the left of "Little Critters," is a large chimney/cave. Enter the cave and ascend the somewhat dirty face on the climbers right. A crack in it provides some protection with nuts. Reach a large flake which forms a roof, and climb the right side of it using crack technique and/or liebacking with face holds for the feet. Traverse left on top of the flake, deep into the chimney. Notice a small hole above you. Overhanging cracks and jugs provide a thrilling finish (crux) as you exit the chimney via the small hole. (The hole is visible in Sam Cannon's photo.) You will find a two bolt anchor immediately as you exit the hole. Rappel the route to descend. Admire the difficult routes to your left, and their first ascentionists.
Addendum 7/19/14: Sam Cannon climbed the West side of the chimney all the way to the top, and found easier climbing (5.7-5.8). His finish is probably the most logical one!