Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Unknown. Liron Gokovski and I climbed it on 9/4/2013. Variant finish 5.8 by Sam Cannon, 7/17/2014
Page Views: 1,503 total · 23/month
Shared By: Peter Lenz on Sep 6, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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This route looks unappealing from below, but we found it to have interesting and pleasant face and crack climbing with a distinctly wild finish. There is some dirt on the bottom face, and a little guano to the left, but you need not touch the guano.


Immediately to the climbers right of "Cross Eyed and Painless," and "Little Creatures," and to the left of "Little Critters," is a large chimney/cave. Enter the cave and ascend the somewhat dirty face on the climbers right. A crack in it provides some protection with nuts. Reach a large flake which forms a roof, and climb the right side of it using crack technique and/or liebacking with face holds for the feet. Traverse left on top of the flake, deep into the chimney. Notice a small hole above you. Overhanging cracks and jugs provide a thrilling finish (crux) as you exit the chimney via the small hole. (The hole is visible in Sam Cannon's photo.) You will find a two bolt anchor immediately as you exit the hole. Rappel the route to descend. Admire the difficult routes to your left, and their first ascentionists.

Addendum 7/19/14: Sam Cannon climbed the West side of the chimney all the way to the top, and found easier climbing (5.7-5.8). His finish is probably the most logical one!


Nuts and cams to 3 inches provide pretty good protection. The only "stainless," on this route is a bolted anchor at the top, which is shared with "Little Creatures," and which was there prior to our ascent.


Peter Lenz
Salt Lake City
Peter Lenz   Salt Lake City
If you know of a prior ascent and/or name for this route, please let me know. The chains at the top preceded our ascent, but may have been there as a descent option for a different climb. I would have placed them elsewhere; probably on the parent rock slab above the climb, rather than the chockstone.,
UPDATE 10/17/16: I have downgraded the difficulty rating to 5.9, due to pretty powerful preponderance of posted opinion. The lower portion of the pitch has cleaned up a bit. The original finish is the one on the climbers left as shown in the photo. The middle finish is slightly easier, but test your holds before committing to them. The straight up finish was easier up to the exit, but I could maneuver my fat ass through the hole, and had to downclimb to the middle finish. Sep 6, 2013
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
This is the softest 10a trad line in existence. Most 5.8s in LCC feel a grade harder than this. That being said, it IS a very worthwhile climb. Even though it's quite dirty, with enormous amounts of bat scat, it's very unique with fun movement throughout.

Exiting out the chimney above I didn't find an obvious set of chain anchors, so I belayed up my 2nd and we walked off. After setting up the anchor I did notice a set of bolts/chains on a kind of hanging slab which I came up behind but would've been quite poorly placed for a TR.

EDIT: I have since learned that the way I exited the chimney was an unintended variation to the original route. If you exit out the back of the hole, it keeps the route in the 5.7 - 5.8 range. I guess the 10a crux comes moving up at a different spot to get to the chains that are right above the lip of the exit-hole/chimney. Jul 16, 2014
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
I climbed this route the way that I think was intended. Pretty fun with a cool move to reach the chains from the chimney. A bit like Narcosis further up the canyon. The chains are visible pretty easily if you step 20 or 30 feet back from the belay area and spy them at the top.

The final moves to the chains feel wildly overhanging and are extremely committing for a trad route of the grade. Fortunately there's great gear and the moves honestly clock in at a hard 5.8 or maybe 5.9. Just get your feet up there and go for it, the holds are all there.

There appears to be three possible finishes for the climb. The way I went (direct to the chains), some moves farther back in the chimney (a couple feet further south) that might let you use the chains when flipped over the top of the rock, and then just continuing up the mega-chockstone about 10-15 feet to the west. Dec 2, 2014
Kyle Rummens
North Salt Lake, UT
Kyle Rummens   North Salt Lake, UT
This is a great route to do with someone who has never climbed before. You can set up a TR in the hole and have them do this super easy route. And it is in a cool crack/cave thing. Oct 27, 2016