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Routes in Dogwood Crag

A Modest Man from Mandrake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Ballad of Bricks V1 5
Beck Beck TR V0 4
Cockroach Slip V2 5+
Cross-Eyed and Painless S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Drunken Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golemoly V1 5
Haven't A Clue S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hyper-Gamma Spaces T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
I Think I'm Going Bald S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Launch V1 5
Life During Wartime T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lion of Zion, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Creatures T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Critters T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Things S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
On the Skids S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quartzite Sans Stainless T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandpaper Cloud V0 4
Slinga Tree T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stun the Hun V0 4
Take Me To The River S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top-Rope Tough Guy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unforgiven S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown west of Mandrake S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown west of Take Me to the River T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,144 total, 16/month
Shared By: utfreeclimber on Nov 3, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Starts with an overhanging boulder problem past two bolts (11d). The fun part (trad) of the route starts off a ledge above the two bolts and climbs an awkward and sequential set of cracks. Gear fits well in the left-hand crack and fingers fits securely in between the chocks that fill up the right-hand crack. Fun climb, super pumpy, well-protected, but kinda dirty.

Location

Crazy overhanging face to the left of Crosseyed and Painless at the west end of the crag

Protection

Two draws and a standard rack

Photos

I cast my voice with the rest--the face is certainly harder than 11c. I had to use the left arete. Hadn't realized the rest was either trad climbing (which I don't have gear for) or the bolted 13a. So I came down. =( Jun 27, 2017
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
how far onto the arete' do you have to go to make this 11d?? felt more like a solid 5.12 boulder problem to an 11+ crack. Broken holds? May 21, 2015
dnaiscool  
 
I thought this was really hard, and really hard immediately, because the rock is steeper than you think and the rock is water-polished slick. The original .11d rating was, I thought at the time, a bit of a sandbag. But, then again, we were looking at only two bolts, so fiddling in gear was pumper. Compared with other .11d's like Division, Moonwalk or Fishlips, this route, IMO, is harder...just sayin'... Apr 20, 2015
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
A classic hard 5.11 mixed route. There are now 3 bolts protecting the bottom face/crack section(thanks!) making this not so scary. Heading out left onto the super slippery arete holds after bolt 2 make this 5.11d while only using the face and finger cranks is 12b according to Ruckman. A magical jug appears at bolt 3 to gain the fat ledge then it is fun trad climbing to the top. The crack is a bit dirty but still quite enjoyable with good gear in the .5 to #2 camalot range. Clip "cross eyed" anchors and enjoy a TR for that route. Sep 19, 2011