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Routes in Dogwood Crag

A Modest Man from Mandrake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Ballad of Bricks V1 5
Beck Beck TR V0 4
Cockroach Slip V2 5+
Cross-Eyed and Painless S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Drunken Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golemoly V1 5
Haven't A Clue S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hyper-Gamma Spaces T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
I Think I'm Going Bald S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Launch V1 5
Life During Wartime T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lion of Zion, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Creatures T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Critters T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Things S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
On the Skids S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quartzite Sans Stainless T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandpaper Cloud V0 4
Slinga Tree T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stun the Hun V0 4
Take Me To The River S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top-Rope Tough Guy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unforgiven S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown west of Mandrake S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown west of Take Me to the River T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,669 total, 8/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 16, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Long, easy, and dirty. Probably not worth it unless you are looking for a reason to practice gear routes. I believe you will need to belay from the top for the second so 2-ways are nice to hear each other.

Protection

Will need gear for the anchors up top and for the entire climb. Maybe 1 piton already fixed. It's been a long time, and I can't recall.

Photos

Wic
Rio Rancho, New Mexico
 
Wic   Rio Rancho, New Mexico
 
This is such a fun climb! There is a hole in the top of this cave (where the chains are) that is so fun to climb through! Fun rap down if you top rope it. This climb is a must! Sep 5, 2015
Rockwood
West Jordan
 
Rockwood   West Jordan
 
This was my first lead outside and if you've ever done any Big Cottonwood climbs, this is typical rock and a piece of a cake and a great practice for new leaders. Only one or two 5.6 moves. I went up above the bush and then did a semi runout traverse over and down to the chains on Little Creatures. It made heinous rope drag in the end but I didn't have to build an anchor and I could be lowered down. (What second wants to be belayed up on an anchor someone built on their first lead? Even if it was bomber, the mental confidence would still be lacking.) All said, I liked it. Apr 20, 2010
Mark Goodro
Puget Sound, Washington
 
Mark Goodro   Puget Sound, Washington
 
There's a pin on the face about 15-20 feet up, well to the right of the crack that starts out of the cave. I find it's more fun to climb the face up past the pin and join the crack higher up. There are many very large and very loose rocks on the ledge before the final headwall. May 15, 2009
Rebecca Airmet
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5
Rebecca Airmet   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5
I don't believe there is a piton anywhere on this climb. However, it protects very well, and despite the vegetation in a few spots, it was not really that dirty. A good place to practice placing gear safely for a new trad leader, but you *must* feel confident about your anchor building skills, as you do need to build an anchor at the top. By face climbing to the right of the crack, the second can make this a bit harder, i.e., more fun. Jul 31, 2006