5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
Avg: 2.5 from 22 votes
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||James Garrett and Daniel Martig (from the Bernese Oberland), May 2012|
|Page Views:||4,550 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||James Garrett on May 15, 2012|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
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Though one always hears early in life not to sweat the little things, it seems later it is the Little Things that really matter.
This interesting climb gives you the feeling of "sea side" climbing. It is usually shaded and very cool due to its location. This was a "two brush" route, that is, I wore completely through two stout wire brushes while equipping the line. Will clean up more with traffic, I suspect, as have similar routes at The Slips and Reservoir Ridge. Fun!
Pitch #1: After getting settled at the belay, climb up some edgy and smooth bulges passing 10 bolts to a two-bolt belay, just shy of the rim. 5.8-, 33m.
Summer 2020 Update: Three bolts have been added to the bottom of the route enabling a lead starting at the waters edge. You may still need to be quite ingenious keeping your rope dry, but it is a fun option to start at the foot of the route.
Situated almost smack dab in the middle between A Modest Man From Mandrake and I Think I Am Going Bald, this bolted moderate may take off some of the pressure on the otherwise very popular and well travelled routes on the Dogwood Crag.
While cleaning and equipping this route, it was observed that as many as 90% of the climbers visiting here approach the climbs from the top and set up top ropes. Little Things must be approached also in this way as the base of the climb is otherwise usually submerged in the flowing water of BCC Creek.
Therefore, walk up to the top of the easily accessible wall, continue past the anchors of the other routes along the rim until you are able to spot the anchors and rappel down to a prominent grassy 1m long x 40cm wide ledge. This is about 3m above the water's edge. A two-bolt belay with a hefty black static rope spanning the two bolts allows for a comfortable belay. A climbing party may choose to top rope or to make it more interesting and conventional, pull the ropes and stack them at the belay and lead the climb. Or lead the climb conventionally from the bottom.
One may elect to belay each other from another bolt or gear at the rim to the rappel / belay station.
A 70m rope may be best and is recommended. Don't rap into the water!