Type: Trad, TR, 98 ft
FA: Gary Olsen and Bret Ruckman, 1984
Page Views: 1,718 total · 9/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Jun 10, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A long-forgotten crack of epic proportions! Climbed first in 1984, this route was bold for it's time. Today, with more modern technology, not much has changed. A technical BCC, 5.9 test piece.

Begin climbing off the ground using a left-leaning, recessed "staircase" to gain the true crack. Switch gears here and follow the seam up and right through the crux to a good rest. Continue following the crack up and right until another rest awaits below the roof. Pull the roof and climb an easy, runout face to the anchor of Modest Man from Mandrake.

This route starts in the clearing just below Modest Man from Mandrake's upper ledge scramble. Look for the ledge system that starts immediately before the MMFM ledge scramble blocks.

Protection

A single set of cams up to three and a half inches supplemented with a full set of stoppers. A handful of draws and a couple of slings should suffice. Protection is solid when and where you can find it, but don't pass any opportunities. This line can also be top-roped using the chains at the top of Modest Man from Mandrake, however a few directional pieces are advised to avoid a wild swing. A 60m rope will just hit the ground. 

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