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Hyper-Gamma Spaces
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 1.4 from 12
votes
Routes in Dogwood Crag
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A Modest Man from Mandrake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Cockroach Slip V2 5+ |
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Cross-Eyed and Painless S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dirty Unknown TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drunken Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Golemoly V1 5 |
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Haven't A Clue S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hyper-Gamma Spaces T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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I Think I'm Going Bald S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Life During Wartime T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Lion of Zion, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Creatures T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Little Critters T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Things S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Modest Man From Drakeman S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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On the Skids S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Quartzite Sans Stainless T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roadside Attraction V2 5+ R |
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Sandpaper Cloud V0 4 |
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Slinga Tree T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Take Me To The River S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Top-Rope Tough Guy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unforgiven S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 98 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Gary Olsen and Bret Ruckman, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 2,781 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | GRK on Jun 10, 2003 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
A long-forgotten crack of grand proportions! Climbed first in 1984, this route was bold for it's time. Today, with more modern technology, not much has changed.
Begin climbing off the ground using a left-leaning, recessed "staircase" to gain the the route's token crack. From here follow the seam up and right through the crux to a good rest. Continue following the crack up and right until another rest awaits below the roof. Pull the roof and climb an easy, runout face to the anchor of Modest Man from Mandrake.
This route starts off the ground in the clearing just below Modest Man from Mandrake's upper ledge scramble. Look for the ledge system that starts immediately before the MMFM ledge scramble blocks.
Begin climbing off the ground using a left-leaning, recessed "staircase" to gain the the route's token crack. From here follow the seam up and right through the crux to a good rest. Continue following the crack up and right until another rest awaits below the roof. Pull the roof and climb an easy, runout face to the anchor of Modest Man from Mandrake.
This route starts off the ground in the clearing just below Modest Man from Mandrake's upper ledge scramble. Look for the ledge system that starts immediately before the MMFM ledge scramble blocks.
Protection
A single set of cams up to three and a half inches supplemented with a full set of medium stoppers. A handful of draws and a couple of slings should suffice. Protection is solid when and where you can find it, but don't pass any opportunities. This line can also be top-roped using the chains at the top of Modest Man from Mandrake, however a few directional pieces are advised to avoid a wild swing. A 60m rope will just hit the ground.
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