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Routes in Dogwood Crag

A Modest Man from Mandrake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Ballad of Bricks V1 5
Beck Beck TR V0 4
Cockroach Slip V2 5+
Cross-Eyed and Painless S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Drunken Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golemoly V1 5
Haven't A Clue S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hyper-Gamma Spaces T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
I Think I'm Going Bald S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Launch V1 5
Life During Wartime T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lion of Zion, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Creatures T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Critters T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Things S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
On the Skids S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quartzite Sans Stainless T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandpaper Cloud V0 4
Slinga Tree T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stun the Hun V0 4
Take Me To The River S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top-Rope Tough Guy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unforgiven S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown west of Mandrake S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown west of Take Me to the River T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Chris Begue, Liz Cannon, 2002
Page Views: 1,897 total, 10/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

I climbed this the day Chris put it up, and provided my meager input on the rating. We both agreed it sat at 5.9+, with only one move justifying the +. The route almost exactly follows a line from bolt to bolt, so don't meander much or you'll end up on another route. Start about 15' left of the small corner and roof that make up the first section of "I Think I'm Going Bald" (approximately 50' east of the west-most line of bolts on Dogwood). Ascend the slick face via good holds up and right to the first bolt. From this stance, look directly above you and the line of bolts becomes evident. Move up increasingly delicate and balancy moves past the third bolt where the climbing becomes significantly easier. As with most of the Dogwood climbs, walking off is often preferable to a rap into the creek. Not a bad little route, and the most stout of the moderates on this crag. The real evil lurkes further east.

Protection

Six quickdraws reach the belay chains.

Photos

Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.9+
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.9+
Fun climb, a bit unnerving for some reason though. Slick, water polished holds and foot placements where you end up trusting some smears. Very cool and shady for a large portion of the day. Jul 18, 2012
Lucas J Matthews  
  5.8
This climb had fewer bolts than expected. I imagine it was bolted on lead and certainly ball a tall person. If you're skiddish on slab, get comfortable before leading this. It is surprisingly run out at times. (Although, I imagine a small rack would solve that problem). Sep 21, 2010
Nathan Fisher
  5.9
Nathan Fisher  
  5.9
Very consistent climb. A great line, in fact the best line on that right/west side of the crag. Although you can tell that the FA was over 6 foot. Oct 10, 2004