Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Stuart and Bret Ruckman, Libby Ellis, 1990
Page Views: 5,326 total · 28/month
Shared By: Jonathan Sakai on Jun 10, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


80 Opinions

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Description

This sport route (6 bolts _ chains) would make a really nice training climb. The first 60' is face climbing on a multitude of good holds, which leads to a small roof which is just enough to get you pumping. Note that the climb starts from a large ledge ~15' up from the bank of the stream. So when rapping down, stop at the ledge!

Beta: There is supposedly a scramble somewhere at the midpoint of Dogwood (see the first photo in this section - the left-slanting shrub-covered diagonal?) - but we found it a little too overgrown to navigate safely. We rapped down from the chains on a 60m rope.

Protection

This route is bolted, with chains at the top. There are plenty of features at the top to set up a belay station with cams and nuts (we found the scramble a bit dicey and decided to just climb up and out).
Mason  
I climbed this route last night, and I thought it ruled! We rappelled down from the chains as our approach route and then took everything back out the top and walked off.

Big jugs and some tricky leverage moves make the lower section challenging and very enjoyable. The roof section toward the top was much easier the first time, without a backpack full of gear :). I recommend this climb to anyone. The person I was with has only been out twice, but he maneuvered the roof after only three tries.

There seem to be several stray bolts close to this route, or at least they weren't in my latest guide book. Anyone know if there are some routes in progress, or if there are other named/rated sport routes that are climbed from the same ledge? Jun 27, 2003
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.9
Smooth, very smooth rock down low. Fun roof up high. The anchors are a bit far over the top creating a lot of drag for the top-rope. If desired, bring longer runners to clip into the anchors that would allow the rope to be over the edge and rub less. Jun 14, 2004
This climb is missing a bolt. I believe it is the fifth bolt that is without a hanger so there is a groundfall runout over some easy ground to the roof. Though it is easy in this section... it would result in serious injury to fall here. If you can't hold it together mentally, you might want to shy away from this till the hanger is replaced. Also... there are hangers without chains at the top so prepare to belay from above and walk off. Oct 2, 2005
Rebecca Airmet
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Rebecca Airmet   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
There are now chains on the bolts at the top of this climb. However, I believe that not one, but two, bolts are missing. The first three are in place, and then bolts four and five appear to be chopped, leaving it run out to the sixth bolt at the roof.

When all the bolts were there, this made a great lead climb for those just into the grade - potential falls after the first bolt are very clean and it's a fun, long route, relatively sustained in places, but dang good rests when you really need 'em. Jul 31, 2006
BenT
  5.9- R
BenT  
  5.9- R
In my oppinion one of the best at dogwood and one of my favorites. The lead is very run out. I couldn't find good trad placements to protect the run out. I'm willing to help someone replace the missing bolts. Bring slings for the top rope. Aug 23, 2006
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
 
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
 
Climbed this today and loved it, didn't feel like a 5.9 until the second roof.

Fourth and fifth bolts are still missing though, if you fall before that final roof you'll probably hit the ground. You can go right and clip the two bolts on the other route with long runners, but I chose to just go left and climb, it was an easy section, but scared the Hell out of me when I was perched on the ledge trying to clip that last bolt.

Much easier to just rappel from the chains rather than walk all the way around and then scramble up to the ledge.

Oh, and there are plenty of loose rocks, including ones that would seem perfect to help you over that second roof. Jun 23, 2007
Bart Ridd
SLC, UT
 
Bart Ridd   SLC, UT
 
Nice long climb! I had fun leading this one. There are a few tricky spots of smooth rock, other than that its smooth sailin. Upper roof is way fun, classic BCC!! Nov 7, 2010
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
The fifth bolt is still missing but there is gear. I was able to get a micro nut and small cam in between the 4th bolt and roof. The roof can be climbed to the left of the bolt on gear too (.75 camalot).

I recommend warming up on the two lines to the left and not the other way around! Apr 5, 2012
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
bolt 5 still missing. Going on 7 years now? Jul 8, 2012
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Fun climb! Especially when you get to the roof, which is obviously the crux of this climb. Nice little belay ledge as well. Jul 18, 2012
Garrett C
SL, UT
  5.9
Garrett C   SL, UT
  5.9
Bolt #5 still missing. Perhaps I got lost but the only anchor I saw was one bolt with a single chain link - sketchy. That runout without the 5th bolt is pretty easy climbing, but definitely will mess with you if you aren't mentally prepared. Aug 24, 2013
Wic
Rio Rancho, New Mexico
  5.9
Wic   Rio Rancho, New Mexico
  5.9
This and "Little Creatures" are my favorite climbs at the Dogwood crag. When toproped, this is an easy enough climb that many beginners can do it with only a little trouble at the roof. If you have a 70 meter rope, it's fun to belay from the ground rather than the top of the 15 foot ledge. When belaying from the top, it is definitely more fun to go all the way down to the ground, but remember, you need a 70 meter rope for this. The route is missing a couple of bolts and as far as I know there are no bolts from the first tiny roof (if you can even call it a roof - more like a bulge in the wall) to the second large roof (the crux of the climb). There is a bolt on the second roof, but none in between. You can clip some bolts on the climb just to the right, but be prepared to swing if you fall. Awesome climb! I think it's the best climb on the Dogwood Crag! Apr 25, 2014
Bolt 5 still missing. I'd not lead this without serious huevos and having instructed an experienced belayer to jump back off the starting ledge were I to fall near the roof.

The anchor is actually two bolts connected by a chain with a couple threadlocks. The second bolt is hiding under the bottom of the chain and can't be seen easily. Jun 27, 2017
Brian Ruesch  
 
I led this a few months ago, and while it did seem a bit run out, I didn't think it was too crazy in comparison to a lot of routes in the area...I didn't realize a bolt was missing, though. Nov 30, 2017
Josh Vondran
Salt Lake City
  5.8-
Josh Vondran   Salt Lake City
  5.8-
I’m not quite sure how this route received a 5.9 rating. Every move on this climb with exception of the roof is no harder than 5.7 with the roof maybe clocking in at 5.8 (jugs everywhere with really good feet). There are other routes nearby in the canyon that are significantly harder and have a 5.7 rating.

As for the run-out per earlier comments, it seems that there is a bolt between the roofs. Although it is a bit run-out, it’s maybe 5.6 climbing through this section at best. Aug 15, 2018