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Deck Chairs on the Titanic 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Guy Lords?, Ric Leitner?, and Brian Hansen? Ken Trout, 1991
Page Views: 7,535
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (187)
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Myke Komarnitsky starts up on a sunny January day.

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Description 

This is a nice textured but steep slab that looks easier than it is. Fun bulges on lower part make the thin crimps at the top more work. You can do a 10a start straight from straight below the bolt, or you can do the 8 variation via the crack on the left. Squeeze onto the ledge, and then move right to follow the thin crack. Move past the 4th bolt and go left and then up.


Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 [Mussy hook] anchor.



Photos of Deck Chairs on the Titanic Slideshow Add Photo
Brenda Leach halfway up the route.
Brenda Leach halfway up the route.
BETA PHOTO
Myke again, this time cleaning as he finishes the route.
Myke again, this time cleaning as he finishes the ...
Shaun Miller scrunching up for the next move.
Shaun Miller scrunching up for the next move.
Fun, fluid climbing on positive edges.  All holds are caked with chalk, taking the mystery out of the climb, but adding a bit of difficulty (read: smooth).
Fun, fluid climbing on positive edges. All holds ...
Comments on Deck Chairs on the Titanic Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 28, 2012
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jan 1, 2001

All these popular routes at Table seem to be getting slightly harder due to the holds being quite polished and greasy. The whole climb (with or w/out the direct start) seems more like 10a now.

By Darin Lang
Jan 8, 2002
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Definitely 10a, and by Mesa Norte standards, at least 10b (cf. Brown Cloud Arete, its neighbor and a 10b - this climb is definitely as hard, and more sustained). Probably solid 9 in Eldo, though.

By Anonymous Coward
May 16, 2002

Climbed this route 5-15-02 on top rope. Both bolts were spinners, now somebody added a third spinner. If people are going to try and fix these bolts, you need to know what your doing!!!

By Darin Lang
Oct 15, 2002
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Maybe 3 stars if the universe was limited to just Table Mtn, but still merits 2 stars when compared to similar sport routes

By Scott Duke
Oct 15, 2002

The crux comes quickly. Some nice bouldering moves just off the ground.Leave your stick clip at home. Get a spot from your partner and go for it.Some very nice edging towards the top. Solid 9+. Once you've lead it, it's "10a" rating is a little steep.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Aug 18, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I bolted this in 1991 and a couple of times after. There are three winch-hooks at the anchor now. Just clip in and lower off. If the hooks seem worn, Home Depot has them for $5 each. There is more about these hooks on the intro page for Overhang Area.

I rated it ten because the dyno at the first bolt stops people who are never stymied by nines. Mike Sheehan led this on natural gear. The word is the thin moves at the top feel hairy-plus.

Guy Lords, Ric Leitner, and Brian Hansen may have been in on the actual FA climbing too. The route name came from Ron Olevsky. He was the first climber I had heard say that worrying about the environmental impact of bolts on Earth's cliffs was as ridiculous as worrying about rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic. Looking at the industrial scenery just below, knowing how geeked the Shermanite crusaders would get about the bolts, it seemed like a fitting name. (Deck Chairs has had the bolts vandalized twice.)

By John Fields
Jun 10, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Just climbed it tonight on TR and plan on going back for a lead very soon. This is a great climb, but if you follow the same path I did and which seems to be the standard from what I've seen others do (traverse right at the big horizontal crack about 20 feet up, then trend left all the way to the top), you'll find good holds and feet the whole way. So I'd say it's a 9. A really great climb though. I give it 3 stars. I'm relatively new to sport climbing, but c'mon, this is deck chairs! You can't discourage people from climbing it by giving it 2 stars!

By Paul Sampson
Aug 3, 2004

I've climbed Deck Chairs a number of times, and it's clearly one of the best of its grade at this crag. It's fairly sustained and a little bit pumpy by Table standards, but it's certainly worth doing. I put the direct start at 9+ for tall people and 10a for people who have to dyno.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2005

Whatever you want to rate it the climbing is sustained. To me felt pretty stiff for the grade. An above average quality route. too bad there is so much chalk crap all over it.

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Oct 25, 2005

Dale Haas and I removed the horribly worn quick links at the anchor and replaced them with new quick links and links of chain to equalize for rappel.

By Buff Johnson
Jan 19, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Nice sustained slab climb. I'm a little too tall to feel the effect of double digit climbing on this start. The .8 crack variant is a fun couple of moves also.

By Ryan Bibler
From: MT
May 1, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

5.10a, and one of the better routes at Table. A fun dyno early leads to interesting slab climbing on smaller holds up top. Precise footwork will get you through the upper section.

By Kaner
From: Eagle
Nov 8, 2007

Maybe an OK route 9million people ago if you're into bolted cracks.
Maybe a 5.9 if every hold didn't feel like a greased watermelon. Save your time.

By jeremy rudolf
Nov 9, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I like the route itself a lot. Climbed it on TR 11/6. Definitely hard 9+ in its condition. I can see how it would be frustrating on lead with the holds being so greased on the first half.

By J mac
Apr 19, 2009

This woould be a great route if it was not so greasy. The fact that it is so greasy makes it so that you are never very secure even on the good holds. If I had no idea what climb this was I would have guessed 10d/11a following the bolt line.

By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Jun 24, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I agree with above comments, this route has lost stars and increased in difficulty as the holds have greased up.

By Paul Donald Andrews
From: Nederland, Co.
Apr 30, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

Climbed it yesterday, 4-29-11, on my first visit to Table. Could not do the direct start. I grabbed the chalky holds, made one left hand jam in the crack and made the reach to the jug at the top of the flared finger crack and back on route. I thought the rest would be a fun 5.9 cruise on the upper face but was gripped the whole way. Really steep, small crimpers for the fingers, good edges for the feet. I really had to think about every move. The last time I had this much trouble on a "5.9" was "Solid Gold", Astro Domes, J Tree. I'd give the route a solid 5.10 rating.

By Patrick Shwartz
From: Thornton, CO
Sep 28, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Fun, balance-y route. I support all of the comments about the direct start being stiff from how greasy the first 2-3 holds are. Still, nice climbing; would give it 2.5 stars if possible.