Type: Sport, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,404 total · 24/month
Shared By: Greg Robertson on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details


This is not too bad. The bolts may be out on the face, but most of the route is climbed on the far side of the arete. Basically follow the chalk up. There are lots of good resting points and confidence building holds.

Eds. note, the anchor is in a detached block.


3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
I agree, the 5.7 follows the arrette or to the left of the arrette. Follow the chalk. Climbing the face/arrette where the bolts go is harder but doable 5.8-9. Jun 28, 2002
The two bolt anchor at the top of this route is attached firmly to a block which is NOT firmly attached to the main cliff. When viewed from the side you can see air between the block and the face. Earlier this year there was some serious rockfall in the gully right next to this arete, and I have a feeling this whole thing may come down soon. Be careful! Dec 26, 2005
Matt Gates
Boulder, CO
Matt Gates   Boulder, CO
The anchor block may be perched securely but there is a fracture line in the block itself. Its only a matter of time before it splits in two. This route and its neighbor should be "retired". Till then, avoid these like the plague. Nov 25, 2007
David Brown
Boulder, CO
David Brown   Boulder, CO
Going straight up the line of bolts goes at about 5.9.

The hangers on this route are welded cold shuts, I don't know why anyone would trust their life to such crap. If I were going to lead this route, I would replace them with real hangers.

As for the block on the top, it's definitely coming down; the question is when. It will probably take a few hundred freeze/thaw cycles (or a minor earthquake) before it falls. Will it be tomorrow, or in 500 years? Sep 27, 2008
Ralph Kolva
Pine, CO
Ralph Kolva   Pine, CO
Did these two climbs on 10/24/2008 and somebody has placed 3 bolts about 10 back from the edge. I would recommend using these to set a top rope anchor and being careful around the top 15 feet of these climbs. Geology happens and eventually the top of the this climb is coming down. Oct 24, 2008
There is one head-sized, wedged rock holding this whole thing together. Know this before you climb it. Apr 6, 2013
Bolts 2 and 3 are spinners. Aug 28, 2014
Lakewood, CO
curt86iroc   Lakewood, CO
Straight up the face is 5.9+. Dec 9, 2014
Nick Leuck
Evergreen, CO
Nick Leuck   Evergreen, CO
The detached block that the anchors are bolted to terrifies me. I didn't see how detached it was until on the route. I did not trust them and instead topped out to the climber's left. The bolts are also free-spinning cold shuts. Not worth it in my opinion. Use your own risk assessment on this route. Dec 28, 2015
L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
I didn't notice the issues with the anchor block (yikes), but I did notice that the bolt hangers are old cold shuts and many of them spin when you try to clip them. Same with Louise, the 5.8 / 5.9- to the right on the same formation. Both of these climbs are probably accidents waiting to happen and best avoided. Apr 17, 2017
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
All the bolts were replaced today. The anchor was lowered to a safer spot. It's still in a detached block, but this one isn't falling apart and seems to be pinned in place.
Thanks to the ASCA for supplying the hardware. Mar 25, 2018