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Routes in Brown Cloud Rocks

Anti-viral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ark, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Axis of Weasels T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baggins' Blunt Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolted Line S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brown Cloud ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bullet The Brown Cloud S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Christmas Night T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack (2 left of Interface) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack (right of Interface) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack/Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deck Chairs on the Titanic S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Interface Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Interface aka Slab Left S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iraqi Road T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
John Adams' Adams Apple T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killian's Dead T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Louise S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Louise Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
New River Gorge Homesick Blues S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Of Sound Mind and Body T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Old Roof Route aka Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee Into the Wind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pee on Dee S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee on Me T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Protection From the Virus S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Punkin Puss & Mushmouse aka Bow of the Titanic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retro-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right of Interface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Solo Route aka Life Raft TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tenacious S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thelma S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thick Crust T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tiny Face T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tiny Pillar TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion) S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown Crack T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Route S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Unknown left of Left Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Variation to The Virus T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virus, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volobee (aka Jolobee) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Wide Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Windy Days S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ypsilon T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,834 total, 23/month
Shared By: Greg Robertson on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is not too bad. The bolts may be out on the face, but most of the route is climbed on the far side of the arete. Basically follow the chalk up. There are lots of good resting points and confidence building holds.

Eds. note, the anchor is in a detached block.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

L Kap
Boulder, CO
 
L Kap   Boulder, CO
 
I didn't notice the issues with the anchor block (yikes), but I did notice that the bolt hangers are old cold shuts and many of them spin when you try to clip them. Same with Louise, the 5.8 / 5.9- to the right on the same formation. Both of these climbs are probably accidents waiting to happen and best avoided. Apr 17, 2017
Nick Leuck
Evergreen, CO
5.7
Nick Leuck   Evergreen, CO
5.7
The detached block that the anchors are bolted to terrifies me. I didn't see how detached it was until on the route. I did not trust them and instead topped out to the climber's left. The bolts are also free-spinning cold shuts. Not worth it in my opinion. Use your own risk assessment on this route. Dec 28, 2015
curt86iroc
Golden, CO
  5.8
curt86iroc   Golden, CO
  5.8
Straight up the face is 5.9+. Dec 9, 2014
Bolts 2 and 3 are spinners. Aug 28, 2014
There is one head-sized, wedged rock holding this whole thing together. Know this before you climb it. Apr 6, 2013
Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
 
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
 
Did these two climbs on 10/24/2008 and somebody has placed 3 bolts about 10 back from the edge. I would recommend using these to set a top rope anchor and being careful around the top 15 feet of these climbs. Geology happens and eventually the top of the this climb is coming down. Oct 24, 2008
David Brown
Boulder, CO
  5.9
David Brown   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Going straight up the line of bolts goes at about 5.9.

The hangers on this route are welded cold shuts, I don't know why anyone would trust their life to such crap. If I were going to lead this route, I would replace them with real hangers.

As for the block on the top, it's definitely coming down; the question is when. It will probably take a few hundred freeze/thaw cycles (or a minor earthquake) before it falls. Will it be tomorrow, or in 500 years? Sep 27, 2008
Matt Gates
Boulder, CO
Matt Gates   Boulder, CO
The anchor block may be perched securely but there is a fracture line in the block itself. Its only a matter of time before it splits in two. This route and its neighbor should be "retired". Till then, avoid these like the plague. Nov 25, 2007
The two bolt anchor at the top of this route is attached firmly to a block which is NOT firmly attached to the main cliff. When viewed from the side you can see air between the block and the face. Earlier this year there was some serious rockfall in the gully right next to this arete, and I have a feeling this whole thing may come down soon. Be careful! Dec 26, 2005
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
I agree, the 5.7 follows the arrette or to the left of the arrette. Follow the chalk. Climbing the face/arrette where the bolts go is harder but doable 5.8-9. Jun 28, 2002