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Routes in Brown Cloud Rocks

Anti-viral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ark, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Axis of Weasels T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baggins' Blunt Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolted Line S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brown Cloud ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bullet The Brown Cloud S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Christmas Night T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack (2 left of Interface) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack (right of Interface) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack/Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deck Chairs on the Titanic S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Interface Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Interface aka Slab Left S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iraqi Road T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
John Adams' Adams Apple T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killian's Dead T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Louise S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Louise Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
New River Gorge Homesick Blues S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Of Sound Mind and Body T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Old Roof Route aka Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee Into the Wind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pee on Dee S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee on Me T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Protection From the Virus S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Punkin Puss & Mushmouse aka Bow of the Titanic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retro-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right of Interface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Solo Route aka Life Raft TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tenacious S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thelma S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thick Crust T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tiny Face T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tiny Pillar TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion) S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown Crack T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Route S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Unknown left of Left Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Variation to The Virus T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virus, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volobee (aka Jolobee) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Wide Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Windy Days S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ypsilon T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Scott Berk, solo, 1988 or Ric Leitner, 1991
Page Views: 5,079 total, 25/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route ascends a wide, textured face in the middle of the Brown Cloud area. Scramble to a ledge 10 feet off the ground, then start the route.

Note, over the years, this route has become quite rounded in places.

Protection

Originally, this had 2 bolts to a 2 hanger anchor. Reaching the anchors is a little difficult, as they are low on the face. Try going from the west side of them, down a small chimney to a ledge.

This has been updated to have 4 bolts.
Keith W
  5.8
Keith W  
  5.8
Enjoyable climb. Find a decent (albeit committing) finger lock to stay in the center. Definitely feels stiffer If you stay off of the left arĂȘte.
Another good warm-up. Nov 20, 2017
Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
The path of least resistance seemed to be using the arete. Doing this with the left hand, I'd give it an .8. Too bad it's so short. May 6, 2017
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Full value for the grade. Mar 2, 2013
Steinwayz
5.9+ PG13
Steinwayz  
5.9+ PG13
This route sucks. The holds are extremely greasy and polished. This was MAYBE a 5.8 twenty years ago - but now I'd say it's a 5.9+ It looks very easy from the bottom - but even the opening moves are a little tricky. May 14, 2012
David Bayendor
Denver, CO
David Bayendor   Denver, CO
This is a tough but fair 5.8 sport route. Bolts and anchors are in good condition.

Because the route is basalt, the holds feel a bit greasy. May 20, 2009
Kevin Wood
  5.8
Kevin Wood  
  5.8
Good route with the four bolts fun lead. Just FYI ******the anchors are spinning******...the hangers are good though. May 24, 2008
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.7
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.7
7/12/08: David, are you the official spokesperson for the Berks? I doubt it. Anyone solid enough to solo this does not need your help. Do you really think any solo climber would insist the rest of us stop using ropes?

Are you suggesting we take out the bolts? The man who used to own the Golden Cliffs told me he donated the land so kids would have place to climb. I don't believe he wanted them to be gettting hurt.

Kids need the oppotunity to learn. Think about learning to read, instead of learning to climb. You seem to be the type who thinks only only advanced readers deserve books. I can't support that kind of intolerance! Nov 28, 2007
Harder than 8 if you stick to middle. Good route. Scary on lead. Nov 27, 2007
pinchepaco Gomez
castle rock, co
  5.8+
pinchepaco Gomez   castle rock, co
  5.8+
It could be better protected, but then it would diminish the rating, nice climb. Dec 2, 2004
Really liked this climb for it balancy moves on less than positive holds and for its sustained level of difficulty. If you stick to the face, I think this route is about as difficult as Deck Chairs. Actually I would say probably harder. The holds are much more positive on Deck Chairs than on this one, although if you use the arete on the left for holds, this one probably becomes an 8 by NTM standards. The anchor bolts have spinner hangers and the hangers are well worn. I'll probably backup the anchor next time. Also, take a good look at the bolts before you decide to lead it. If you fall from just about anywhere on the route, you will deck. It's easy to setup a TR by scrambling down into the chimney west of the climb. Jul 1, 2004
Surlyman
  5.8+
Surlyman  
  5.8+
8+ going straight up the face. High risk of decking if you fall anywhere. Should be better protected. May 7, 2004
Luke Clarke
Golden
 
Luke Clarke   Golden
 
Anchors have been upgraded. Two nice bolts with the huge hangers you can thread through were in place today. Nice short route. Nov 28, 2003
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
 
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
 
It seems like if you fell at or near the anchor there is ground fall potential. Sep 2, 2002
The downward-sloping, well-used holds definitely makes the climb more difficult. Straight up seems a little thin to be just an 8. Using the left edge but not actually going up the arete seems to be a more reasonable 8. Aug 16, 2002
Jason Carter
Monument, CO
Jason Carter   Monument, CO
For some reason this climb seems odd - weird moves, greasy sloper holds, and a disjunct line - not my favorite; anyone else? Jul 21, 2002
This route is a really good warm up, it's short only two draws. be carful if your the belayer, becasue your on a legde and you don't want to fall off. Jun 30, 2002