Of Sound Mind and Body
Avg: 1 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 35 ft|
|FA:||Deb Thompson, LP|
|Page Views:||648 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Sep 19, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a route that most North Table climbers won't like, in fact, and probably will detest. It involves offwidth, chimney, and mental gymnastics. So, don't bother with it unless you want something different...like a bit of adventure.
To the right of Tenacious, hidden in the shadows, is an offwidth that becomes a chimney. Hop up onto a flat-topped block. Step left into a crack, and gain a ledge. Now, it gets interesting. Place an old style #5 Camalot without a quickdraw or sling. Fish out the holds, including the chockstones, left foot triangle, sloping ramp. Despite the decent stem, it's hard to get anything to protect you from the stem position. Arm bar, step up, and don't blow this move. Once above the chockstones, a #3 Bigbro fits well deep. Continue up more easily.
You won't want to do this without big gear for a lead. I backed off the 1st time with a #4 Camalot as my biggest piece.
LocationThis is tucked in the shadows to the right of Tenacious.
Protection#0.75, #2, #4, #5 (old style) Camalots, #3 Bigbro. You can clip the 3 bolts on top to the left once you topout.
To belay, it's best to get on the right side of the chimney when clipped to the bolts (which are not positioned ideally at all for this direction of pull) and stem with your leg across the chimney. That way, the belay forces are on you and not pulling outward/prying the washers/chainlinks in their weak axes.