Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Brown Cloud Rocks

Anti-viral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ark, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Axis of Weasels T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baggins' Blunt Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolted Line S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brown Cloud ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bullet The Brown Cloud S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Christmas Night T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack (2 left of Interface) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack (right of Interface) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack/Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deck Chairs on the Titanic S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Interface Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Interface aka Slab Left S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iraqi Road T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
John Adams' Adams Apple T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killian's Dead T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Louise S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Louise Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
New River Gorge Homesick Blues S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Of Sound Mind and Body T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Old Roof Route aka Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee Into the Wind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pee on Dee S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee on Me T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Protection From the Virus S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Punkin Puss & Mushmouse aka Bow of the Titanic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retro-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right of Interface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Solo Route aka Life Raft TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tenacious S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thelma S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thick Crust T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tiny Face T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tiny Pillar TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion) S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown Crack T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Route S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Unknown left of Left Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Variation to The Virus T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virus, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volobee (aka Jolobee) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Wide Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Windy Days S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ypsilon T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Deb Thompson, LP
Page Views: 640 total, 13/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 19, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a route that most North Table climbers won't like, in fact, and probably will detest. It involves offwidth, chimney, and mental gymnastics. So, don't bother with it unless you want something different...like a bit of adventure.

To the right of Tenacious, hidden in the shadows, is an offwidth that becomes a chimney. Hop up onto a flat-topped block. Step left into a crack, and gain a ledge. Now, it gets interesting. Place an old style #5 Camalot without a quickdraw or sling. Fish out the holds, including the chockstones, left foot triangle, sloping ramp. Despite the decent stem, it's hard to get anything to protect you from the stem position. Arm bar, step up, and don't blow this move. Once above the chockstones, a #3 Bigbro fits well deep. Continue up more easily.

You won't want to do this without big gear for a lead. I backed off the 1st time with a #4 Camalot as my biggest piece.

Location

This is tucked in the shadows to the right of Tenacious.

Protection

#0.75, #2, #4, #5 (old style) Camalots, #3 Bigbro. You can clip the 3 bolts on top to the left once you topout.

To belay, it's best to get on the right side of the chimney when clipped to the bolts (which are not positioned ideally at all for this direction of pull) and stem with your leg across the chimney. That way, the belay forces are on you and not pulling outward/prying the washers/chainlinks in their weak axes.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9- PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9- PG13
This route is kind of fun, but it is short and the offwidth is really short. Nov 20, 2013