Of Sound Mind and Body
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Type: | Trad, 35 ft (11 m) |
FA: | Deb Thompson, LP |
Page Views: | 1,637 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Sep 19, 2013 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Rim Rock Trail at N. Table Mt. Park is closed Feb. through July 31 to protect raptor nesting territory and ground-nesting bird habitat.
It's likely few climber go there, but it may affect the adventurous.
It's likely few climber go there, but it may affect the adventurous.
Description
This is a route that most North Table climbers won't like, in fact, and probably will detest. It involves offwidth, chimney, and mental gymnastics. So, don't bother with it unless you want something different...like a bit of adventure.
To the right of Tenacious, hidden in the shadows, is an offwidth that becomes a chimney. Hop up onto a flat-topped block. Step left into a crack, and gain a ledge. Now, it gets interesting. Place an old style #5 Camalot without a quickdraw or sling. Fish out the holds, including the chockstones, left foot triangle, sloping ramp. Despite the decent stem, it's hard to get anything to protect you from the stem position. Arm bar, step up, and don't blow this move. Once above the chockstones, a #3 Bigbro fits well deep. Continue up more easily.
You won't want to do this without big gear for a lead. I backed off the 1st time with a #4 Camalot as my biggest piece.
To the right of Tenacious, hidden in the shadows, is an offwidth that becomes a chimney. Hop up onto a flat-topped block. Step left into a crack, and gain a ledge. Now, it gets interesting. Place an old style #5 Camalot without a quickdraw or sling. Fish out the holds, including the chockstones, left foot triangle, sloping ramp. Despite the decent stem, it's hard to get anything to protect you from the stem position. Arm bar, step up, and don't blow this move. Once above the chockstones, a #3 Bigbro fits well deep. Continue up more easily.
You won't want to do this without big gear for a lead. I backed off the 1st time with a #4 Camalot as my biggest piece.
Protection
#0.75, #2, #4, #5 (old style) Camalots, #3 Bigbro. You can clip the 3 bolts on top to the left once you topout.
To belay, it's best to get on the right side of the chimney when clipped to the bolts (which are not positioned ideally at all for this direction of pull) and stem with your leg across the chimney. That way, the belay forces are on you and not pulling outward/prying the washers/chainlinks in their weak axes.
To belay, it's best to get on the right side of the chimney when clipped to the bolts (which are not positioned ideally at all for this direction of pull) and stem with your leg across the chimney. That way, the belay forces are on you and not pulling outward/prying the washers/chainlinks in their weak axes.
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