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Routes in Brown Cloud Rocks

Anti-viral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ark, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Axis of Weasels T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baggins' Blunt Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolted Line S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brown Cloud Arête S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bullet The Brown Cloud S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Christmas Night T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack (2 left of Interface) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack (right of Interface) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack/Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deck Chairs on the Titanic S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Interface Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Interface aka Slab Left S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iraqi Road T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
John Adams' Adams Apple T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killian's Dead T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Louise S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Louise Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
New River Gorge Homesick Blues S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Of Sound Mind and Body T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Old Roof Route aka Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee Into the Wind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pee on Dee S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee on Me T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Protection From the Virus S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Punkin Puss & Mushmouse aka Bow of the Titanic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retro-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right of Interface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Solo Route aka Life Raft TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tenacious S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thelma S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thick Crust T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tiny Face T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tiny Pillar TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion) S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown Crack T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Route S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Unknown left of Left Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Variation to The Virus T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virus, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volobee (aka Jolobee) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Wide Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Windy Days S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ypsilon T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 3,704 total, 20/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Jan 30, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Left of the "Brown Cloud Arete" are three crack systems. These mark the leftmost end of the "Brown Cloud Crags" section of cliff. This route takes the lefthand of these three crack systems up a right-facing corner to the top of the wall. The climbing is moderate and the gear is good, making this a suitable introduction to leading gear routes.

Walk off to the east.

Eds. There is an obvious independent start in the double crack system to the left.

Protection

Gear, no fixed anchor.

Photos

Kurtis Anderson  
  5.6
It's not hard to see why this route's rating is low, but it is fun nonetheless.

The crux is the off-width, arm bar and hand jam on opposing sides of a slim, vertical rock protruding from the wall, about ¾ of the way up. We did a slightly different variation to begin - follow the crack just left of the beginning of this route and Axis of Weasels. I used four Camalots, sizes from first to last: 1 (beginning crack), 0.5 (mid-crux), 2 (just shy of the roof), 1 (for the crack to the right of the anchor of Wholly Holey sport route - more of a feel good).

The route is still pretty dirty, with loose rock and gravel aplenty. I will say, it is nice to see almost no sign of chalk on a route in the Brown Clouds! Nov 7, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.6
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.6
I thought the route was pretty good. It was not recommended in the guidebook but has no real problems. Maybe the bush on the route was thriving when the authors of the book did it. It was not bad at all. Apr 30, 2013
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
The route just right of Deck Chairs is Killian's Dead. This route is about 50 feet to the left. May 7, 2009
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
CAUTION: there is a large, loose block at the very top of the climb. It should be trundled, which I would have done, were there not people below.
Also, I was unable to retrieve a small cam at the crux crack. Do not clip, as it is not cammed, rather just sitting deep in the crack. A very thin hand might be able to get it out, but not my nut tool. May 7, 2009