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Routes in Brown Cloud Rocks

Anti-viral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ark, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Axis of Weasels T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baggins' Blunt Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolted Line S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brown Cloud ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bullet The Brown Cloud S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Christmas Night T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack (2 left of Interface) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack (right of Interface) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack/Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deck Chairs on the Titanic S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Interface Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Interface aka Slab Left S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iraqi Road T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
John Adams' Adams Apple T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killian's Dead T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Louise S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Louise Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
New River Gorge Homesick Blues S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Of Sound Mind and Body T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Old Roof Route aka Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee Into the Wind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pee on Dee S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee on Me T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Protection From the Virus S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Punkin Puss & Mushmouse aka Bow of the Titanic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retro-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right of Interface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Solo Route aka Life Raft TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tenacious S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thelma S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thick Crust T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tiny Face T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tiny Pillar TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion) S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown Crack T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Route S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Unknown left of Left Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Variation to The Virus T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virus, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volobee (aka Jolobee) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Wide Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Windy Days S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ypsilon T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: The Berks
Page Views: 12,283 total, 60/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the crack up the dihedral with the clean right side face and large horizontal slash 2/3 of the way up. Solid finger and hand jams with some nice jugs as a break are throughout the climb. The layback move above the slash is the crux move.

It is #8 in the photo to the right =>

Protection

Some slings for the TR is nice, otherwise bring mid-size cams for trad lead.
Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
If there is such a thing as a 3 star 50' climb, then this is it. May 8, 2017
Cody Goldberg
Lakewood, Colorado
 
Cody Goldberg   Lakewood, Colorado
 
Rad trad. Mar 10, 2017
Taketaketaketaketake ....take
Colorado Springs
  5.8+
Taketaketaketaketake ....take   Colorado Springs
  5.8+
Fun! I also found the hardest part the flared crack just below the anchors, I ended up doing a stupid, high, wide left foot to the chalked up ledge on the left arete. Doing a layback there probably makes more sense, but I'm flexible and bad at crack climbing. Good pro the whole way up, I ended up using less of the bigger (#1-#3) cams than I thought I would, I think I placed one #1 and one #2, but I was being a bit conservative with my placements. Mar 11, 2016
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.8+
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.8+
5.8+ seems pretty on the money. I struggled the most about 2 moves before the anchor, when the crack flares. There is a good jam deep, but it's a reach for it and awkward to move off of. Protection is great from bottom to top. Jan 18, 2014
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
Good line - much like gritstone but less aggressive. Awkward move near top, low end HVS 5a in UK terms. Oct 16, 2013
Joshinator
Longmont, Colorado
 
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
 
This route just eats hand and finger-sized cams. Bring as many as you feel like carrying. Set of BD 0.5-3 will keep you well protected, doubles of #1 is nice. Excellent jamming with nice rests spread throughout. Got awkward for me at the top and after taking my first fall on gear...I may have thrown up. May 31, 2013
Choss Boss
Barrre, VT
5.8+
Choss Boss   Barrre, VT
5.8+
Good grief. I found this thing awkward near the top, but overall a really fun route. Aug 23, 2010
Ben Helgeson
Denver
 
Ben Helgeson   Denver
 
This is the most memorable trad climb at the cliffs. I thought it was just strenuous enough, but took gear well. Set an anchor with gear up top. Don't use the anchors on the detached block. We see people using those anchors when we go up there, but it is a bad idea.... Jan 26, 2008
rena brand
Littleton, CO
  5.8+ PG13
rena brand   Littleton, CO
  5.8+ PG13
This is my favorite climb at Golden Cliffs. Gives just enough of a challenge but fun. Lots of ways to test your technique on this climb. You could try to jam the crack or stem. I do it different every time. Nov 2, 2007
Matt Gates
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Matt Gates   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Great climb, but I second the comment about the anchors in the detached block. I appreciate the anchors, but shouldn't they be on the opposite face which appears to be solid rock? Mar 19, 2007
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
 
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
 
The TR anchors are in a completely disconnected block about twice the size of a microwave sitting on and slighly overhanging the rim. It looks like someone could crow-bar the thing off without too much difficulty. Nov 10, 2006
Jeremy Hakes
Golden, Colorado
  5.8
Jeremy Hakes   Golden, Colorado
  5.8
We set up a TR after climbing Lemons Limes and Tangerines. This is a fun crack climb! The crux, IMO, is when the crack constricts about 1/2 way up. Apr 25, 2006
Buff Johnson
  5.8
Buff Johnson  
  5.8
Fun line, a pink tri-cam can protect after the small overhang, red-tri cam looks like a good placement but is too big. See Matt's comment above for pro. Jan 19, 2006
Mike Mullen
Littleton
  5.8
Mike Mullen   Littleton
  5.8
Love this climb. Just wanted to let people know that anchors were added to this climb. We lead it but it would be easy to set-up a TR on this climb now. Aug 13, 2004
I wish there were a lot more routes like this one at Table. It's a fun little crack climb with some pretty good stemming rests / gear stances if you look for them. Aug 3, 2004
Whoever put the two anchor bolts in, thanks. This is a fun climb at an established toprope crag, so it should definitely have a solid anchor. This makes it much safer for the newbies who don't have the experience/gear. I may despise bolts near perfectly protectable cracks, but I never shun a solid set of belay/rap anchors. . . May 2, 2004
Matt Chan
Boulder
  5.8
Matt Chan   Boulder
  5.8
Definitely fun, but sadly, very short. I carried #0.5 - #2 Camalots with a double #1 and up to a #8 stopper, and it protected very well. Bring some webbing and gear for a couple 1" cracks at the top. Mar 18, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
One of the best 5.8s at Golden Cliffs. An excellent, well-protected lead; bring your trad rack! Sep 3, 2003
This route is a good fun though short. The pro is fairly straightforward (it is) and you can make it nice and easy if you use the crack and stem/use the face. Feb 16, 2002
For a N Table climb (i.e. short), I really like this one. A nice break from the face climbs. I found one section above the slash both trickier and more difficult to protect than I anticipated from the ground and ended up using a small Alien in a crack on the left face. A small nut would also work. Dec 19, 2001