Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,059 total · 14/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details


Start up the steep left side of a buttress on the left side of an alcove. Said alcove is then about 40 yards from the super-easy access to the top. This is a fun route. Some easy step up moves, and then a dyno opportunity from small but positive crimpers to the ledge. To truly climb the route, do not go up the left side from here. Instead, move right and follow the bolts directly up the face. Another cool dynamic move opportunity to a left-hand ledge about 10 feet below the bolts.

Note, over the years, this route has become quite polished in places, especially at the start.


4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
You would have to really work to make this route a 5.9+. It is a fun route, but if you are tall it is probably only 5.8+. Feb 22, 2002
If you are too short to reach the high flake (which cannot be seen from the toehold), this is easily a 5.10. To reach the upper part, climb left or right to the big ledge, then try the bolted route, or climb left which allows 5.7/5.8 climbers to enjoy the rest of the route. Apr 24, 2003
Not sustained, but fun for the 2 crux moves, 1 to get to the ledge, the other to get off of the ledge by going right and up the face. I'm not quite 6' tall and found the cruxes (cruci?) to be fairly rated at 9+/10a. These moves were noticeably harder for me than the crux of braincloud, so using braincloud (5.9) as a benchmark, I think this one is graded about right. My climbing partner, who is about 6'2 and is very solid at 5.8, couldn't get the first crux after many tries. Jul 2, 2004
Kevin Wood
Kevin Wood  
Not a 5.9 in my book, but everyone is different. The crimpers at the crux are real small. The last bolt was almost falling completely out, hand tightened but might need some attention. May 24, 2008
David Bayendor
Denver, CO
David Bayendor   Denver, CO
If you are 5' 5", like me, then the tiny crimps you need to get the moves are about five inches out of reach (unless you have a serious ape index).

Also, the holds are very greasy, and could probably do with some clean up. Because of this, I agree with other comments that this feels a lot harder than 5.9, maybe 5.10.

I climbed up the off width to the left, basically as a free-solo instead. May 20, 2009
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
Clipping the first high bolt is just balancy enough that I found it comforting to put a couple opposing small stoppers in the thin horizontal crack at the first ledge. A groundfall from there has an ugly landing zone. At 5'10", the crux reaches/clips were barely within reach for me after tiptoeing as high as possible. Nice finish. Jun 24, 2010
Cindy L Boisvert
Maine, Colorado, Alaska
Cindy L Boisvert   Maine, Colorado, Alaska
Feels more like 5.8+ to me. Jun 2, 2012
Daniel Slosky
Daniel Slosky  
Pretty tough climbing for a 9 (even a 9+). The crux is a couple of reachy moves over slick crimps just after the first bolt. One of the anchor bolts is in pretty bad shape and needs replacing. Mar 9, 2015
The anchor bolt needs to be replaced. Part of the hanger on the left anchor bolt appears to be rusted all the way through, creating a thin gap where the metal used to be connected. It's easy to miss this damage at a quick glance. Oct 15, 2017
All bolts replaced 9/29/18. Sure enough, the weld on one of the welded cold shuts was completely cracked (I'll post a photo). If you can, please support bolt replacement by donating to the BCC (boulderclimbers.org) and/or the ASCA (safeclimbing.org)! Oct 1, 2018