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Routes in Brown Cloud Rocks

Anti-viral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ark, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Axis of Weasels T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baggins' Blunt Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolted Line S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brown Cloud ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bullet The Brown Cloud S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Christmas Night T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack (2 left of Interface) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack (right of Interface) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack/Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deck Chairs on the Titanic S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Interface Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Interface aka Slab Left S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iraqi Road T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
John Adams' Adams Apple T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killian's Dead T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Louise S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Louise Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
New River Gorge Homesick Blues S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Of Sound Mind and Body T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Old Roof Route aka Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee Into the Wind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pee on Dee S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee on Me T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Protection From the Virus S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Punkin Puss & Mushmouse aka Bow of the Titanic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retro-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right of Interface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Solo Route aka Life Raft TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tenacious S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thelma S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thick Crust T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tiny Face T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tiny Pillar TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion) S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown Crack T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Route S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Unknown left of Left Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Variation to The Virus T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virus, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volobee (aka Jolobee) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Wide Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Windy Days S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ypsilon T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,853 total, 14/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start up the steep left side of a buttress on the left side of an alcove. Said alcove is then about 40 yards from the super-easy access to the top. This is a fun route. Some easy step up moves, and then a dyno opportunity from small but positive crimpers to the ledge. To truly climb the route, do not go up the left side from here. Instead, move right and follow the bolts directly up the face. Another cool dynamic move opportunity to a left-hand ledge about 10 feet below the bolts.

Note, over the years, this route has become quite polished in places, especially at the start.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

The anchor bolt needs to be replaced. Part of the hanger on the left anchor bolt appears to be rusted all the way through, creating a thin gap where the metal used to be connected. It's easy to miss this damage at a quick glance. Oct 15, 2017
Daniel Slosky
  5.10a
Daniel Slosky  
  5.10a
Pretty tough climbing for a 9 (even a 9+). The crux is a couple of reachy moves over slick crimps just after the first bolt. One of the anchor bolts is in pretty bad shape and needs replacing. Mar 9, 2015
Cindy L Boisvert
Maine, Colorado, Alaska
 
Cindy L Boisvert   Maine, Colorado, Alaska
 
Feels more like 5.8+ to me. Jun 2, 2012
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9+
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9+
Clipping the first high bolt is just balancy enough that I found it comforting to put a couple opposing small stoppers in the thin horizontal crack at the first ledge. A groundfall from there has an ugly landing zone. At 5'10", the crux reaches/clips were barely within reach for me after tiptoeing as high as possible. Nice finish. Jun 24, 2010
David Bayendor
Denver, CO
  5.10
David Bayendor   Denver, CO
  5.10
If you are 5' 5", like me, then the tiny crimps you need to get the moves are about five inches out of reach (unless you have a serious ape index).

Also, the holds are very greasy, and could probably do with some clean up. Because of this, I agree with other comments that this feels a lot harder than 5.9, maybe 5.10.

I climbed up the off width to the left, basically as a free-solo instead. May 20, 2009
Kevin Wood
  5.10c
Kevin Wood  
  5.10c
Not a 5.9 in my book, but everyone is different. The crimpers at the crux are real small. The last bolt was almost falling completely out, hand tightened but might need some attention. May 24, 2008
Not sustained, but fun for the 2 crux moves, 1 to get to the ledge, the other to get off of the ledge by going right and up the face. I'm not quite 6' tall and found the cruxes (cruci?) to be fairly rated at 9+/10a. These moves were noticeably harder for me than the crux of braincloud, so using braincloud (5.9) as a benchmark, I think this one is graded about right. My climbing partner, who is about 6'2 and is very solid at 5.8, couldn't get the first crux after many tries. Jul 2, 2004
If you are too short to reach the high flake (which cannot be seen from the toehold), this is easily a 5.10. To reach the upper part, climb left or right to the big ledge, then try the bolted route, or climb left which allows 5.7/5.8 climbers to enjoy the rest of the route. Apr 24, 2003
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
You would have to really work to make this route a 5.9+. It is a fun route, but if you are tall it is probably only 5.8+. Feb 22, 2002