Type: Sport, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,967 total · 27/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 with updates from Greg Barnes
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


124 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This route lies in the back right of a small alcove just west of Deck Chairs on the Titanic. Start on the right side of the alcove, about 10 yards to the right of Pee on Dee, and move up to the nice ledge. Follow the crack up and left. You can't use the huge ledge at the top of the climb on the left side - you can use the crack, but no feet or hands on the top of it.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. Addendum: there are optional gear placements to protect you before the 1st bolt.

Rattlesnake Alert!

Per LovePas: there was a rattlesnake 2/3rds up this route.

Photos

As of Tuesday May 31, this had scary spinners on the top bolt anchors. I could loosen and tighten them with my fingers! May 31, 2005
Ian Welch
Denver, CO
  5.8-
Ian Welch   Denver, CO
  5.8-
Start directly underneath the first bolt for a more interesting climb. Oct 5, 2006
jeremy rudolf
  5.7+
jeremy rudolf  
  5.7+
Route has newer Fixe anchors w/rap rings. Lots of monster holds. 5.7+ in my book. Nov 9, 2007
Alex A
  5.7 PG13
Alex A  
  5.7 PG13
WTF, will the morons with the MAGIC MARKS leave them at home. There is a good guidebook, we do not need the routes grade and # on the cliff in magic marker, Graffiti.

Fun, easy climb, 5.7. Mar 11, 2011
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
Currently there is only one anchor bolt on the face at the top. (Likely over torqued and sheared off.) Fortunately, there are 2 bolts with chains just up over the top to belay from. (It's nice to belay at the top.) Then you can rap' or walk off. Jan 29, 2012
Allen Corneau
Houston, TX
Allen Corneau   Houston, TX
Got to the top and found only one anchor. Didn't realize there were chains just over the edge, so I down-climbed to the anchors on "Pee on Dee", then down-climbed, and back-cleaned all my draws.

I'd recommend changing out the one ring anchor for a standard hanger. That way folks will know to continue up until they get to the chains. Sep 19, 2012
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Great route, hard start! Will take a nice cam in the first crack if you don't want to pull the crux unprotected on your way to the high first bolt. Mar 2, 2013
Christopher G Hill
Lakewood, CO
  5.8 PG13
Christopher G Hill   Lakewood, CO
  5.8 PG13

Walked up the gully and top roped off the chains. Great starter climb. This pics shows going off to the left more towards Pee on D. You can get creative with how you approach getting up. Jul 7, 2013
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
Anchor bolt is still missing. Don't trust those chains on top either. Both studs wiggle in their holes.... Jan 15, 2014
Did this route on 2/10/2016, ther'es only one anchor bolt! Had to traverse over and use the anchors on the route to the left. Wouldn't recommend until the anchor is fixed. Feb 11, 2016
Scott Hunt
Golden, CO
Scott Hunt   Golden, CO
Still missing an anchor bolt. Dec 5, 2016
LovePas  
There was a rattlesnake 2/3rds up this route. Scared the hell out of us. Be careful. Jan 31, 2017
All bolts replaced 9/29/18. In case anyone was wondering why that anchor bolt broke - all of the stud bolts on this route were poor quality, hardware store, junk bolts and snapped easily - you couldn't even unscrew the nuts (because the bolts had stretched, and so the nuts were stuck on the bolt). Very sketchy, more of these bolts could have easily snapped on someone. Please consider donating to the BCC (boulderclimbers.org) and/or the ASCA (safeclimbing.org) to help with bolt replacement costs! Oct 1, 2018