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Routes in Brown Cloud Rocks

Anti-viral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ark, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Axis of Weasels T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baggins' Blunt Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolted Line S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brown Cloud Arête S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bullet The Brown Cloud S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Christmas Night T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack (2 left of Interface) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack (right of Interface) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crack/Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deck Chairs on the Titanic S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Interface Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Interface aka Slab Left S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iraqi Road T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
John Adams' Adams Apple T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killian's Dead T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Louise S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Louise Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
New River Gorge Homesick Blues S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Of Sound Mind and Body T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Old Roof Route aka Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee Into the Wind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pee on Dee S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pee on Me T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Protection From the Virus S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Punkin Puss & Mushmouse aka Bow of the Titanic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retro-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right of Interface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Solo Route aka Life Raft TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tenacious S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thelma S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thick Crust T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tiny Face T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tiny Pillar TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion) S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown Crack T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Route S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Unknown left of Left Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Variation to The Virus T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virus, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volobee (aka Jolobee) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Wide Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Windy Days S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ypsilon T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,882 total, 19/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Follow the crack that runs up and right, just right of Killian's Dead and Deck Chairs. Try to use only the crack at the top (crux), and not bail out to the dihedral corner on the right.

Protection

Smaller cams, stoppers. We used a 20 foot sling thrown around a huge block.

Per nathanjohnson83: top bolts were recently added with a chain and a rap ring.

Photos

Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
Nice climb with good jams. I'd say it's about the same difficulty as the climb to the left. May 8, 2017
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Great jams through the crux. Can't wait to lead this one next time. Sep 5, 2011
nathanjohnson83
Wheaton
  5.8-
nathanjohnson83   Wheaton
  5.8-
Top bolts were recently added w/ a chain and a rap ring to make TR easier for this route. Nov 2, 2010
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
If you start at the groove just right of the "15" in the beta photo and climb directly to the crack, you can make the climb go at 5.8. Starting in the Killian's chimney corner will negate this boulder problem start bringing the grade down. Bring pro to 3 inches. Jan 30, 2008
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
  5.8- PG13
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
  5.8- PG13
This was my first on sight trad lead. It’s not in any hard but a little interesting because the good placements don’t start until about a third of the way up. I think I used cams from .5 - 3.5. The crack goes from tight hands to fist (for me), nice variety. The top is kind of lame but what are you gonna do? Jan 19, 2006
Matt Chan
Boulder
  5.6
Matt Chan   Boulder
  5.6
I second what Tony said in a previous statement, that John Adams' is no harder than Killian's Dead. We tried something a bit different and climbed the face after the hand/fist crack ran out. Apr 8, 2004
Stay in the crack up top, it's closer to grade. IMO a very enjoyable climb. Big dihedral is harder and is a solid 5.8 so if you danced right up JAAA and wanna get some other 8's, heads up for the Big D. Both worth doing. Sep 26, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.6
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.6
Pretty decent trad lead for a beginner. It looked like it would be hard to mess up the cam placements int he gradually widening crack that starts half way up. Hexes would also work.Actual grade should be 5.6, stars- 1.

Not bad, but not good either. What can you say about a 30 foot line? It had good jams and nice pro- but you can sew it up on 4 placements.

Uh, no harder than the line to the left rated 5.6. May 12, 2003