Dave's Deviation 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Tom Frost and Royal Robbins, 1960 |
| Submitted By: | Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006 |
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This is a photo of Dave Deviation with The Vampire...
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Description This route starts just right of The Jam Crack. Pitch 1 (5.9) is a very nice, clean finger and thin hands crack. Pitch 2 (5.9) starts at the left end of the Pitch 1 belay ledge. It is less sustained than pitch 1, with face climbing up a groove, then a tricky move over an overhang. Pitch 3 (5.8 R) has very poor protection, but fun climbing up a thin dihedral and face above. The route finishes at Pine Tree Ledge.
Protection Standard rack
Dave's Deviation is finger crack with bush growing...
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Tom Donnelly leading the first pitch of Dave's, ju...
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Top section of pitch 1,"Dave's Deviation".
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The second runout pitch of Dave's Deviation. Not ...
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matt starting up 1st pitch
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First pitch
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Taken from The Trough
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| Comments on Dave's Deviation |
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By David Wang
From: San Francisco, CA
May 22, 2006
rating: 5.9 R
| One can reach the pine tree ledge from the bolted belay at the end of the first pitch with a single 60m rope. Combining pitches might even be preferable as the optional belay is semi-hanging and puts the anchor perilously close to the run out slab section. |
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 7, 2006
rating: 5.9
| The start of this route can be identified by a small tree/bush growing out of the crack midway up the first pitch. The original start is from the left, starting up The Jam Crack. A 5.10c direct start leads up from the right which passes a small roof and then a bolt and hits the crack below the tree.
One 60m rope will get you back to the ground from the top of P1. |
By John Schirmer
From: Canyon Country, CA
Aug 6, 2006
rating: 5.9
| Great route to climb when all others are taken up. Caution your belayer for he will be distracted from protecting your lead by what ever party is bailing from The Vampire. Some epics occur on that route and are in plain view from the belay stance.
Never did this whole multi pitch route. But Pitch one is classic fingers. |
By Dan Hickstein
Apr 6, 2007
| An incredible first pitch, but don't head down too soon! Combining this climb with the excellent 5.7+ pitch of Piton Pooper to the insane 5.8 pitch of Upper Royal's Arch is, in my book, the best climb of it's grade at Tahquitz. If you're looking for a little more challenge in your day try Dave's without touching the tree! (5.11?) |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jun 11, 2008
rating: 5.9
| Fricken' awesome finger crack on the first pitch. A little painful on the feet, but more than worth it. Bring small nuts! |
By The Gray Tradster
Aug 24, 2009
| The tree was pruned by a lightning bolt last year.
We thought maybe someone had fallen on it, but close examination revealed the burn marks.
Not near as threatening when you get above it now. |
By tom donnelly
Aug 25, 2009
| Someone did also fall on the little tree. |
By The Gray Tradster
Aug 25, 2009
| I'm sure that tree has absorbed far more than one fall, but we did the route the day after a particularly fierce thunderstorm and the sharp upper branches were barely hanging on. Burnt to the core.
We brought the branch down in a dignified manner. It was a bad accident waiting to happen. |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Apr 9, 2010
| Fantastic pitch that I never tire of. Often see a crowd working on this. Great to use as a first pitch for what i think is a classic link up: Dave's to Jam Crack (pitches 2+3)to Piton Pooper (pitch 1 to link pitch) to Upper Royal Arch finish! WA-Hoo!!! |
By Tom Fralich
From: Fresno, CA
Jul 3, 2011
| Four stars for the link-up of Dave's-Piton Pooper-Upper Royals Arch. |
By Tommy G.
From: Irvine, California
Aug 5, 2012
| Pitch 2 is not overly run out if you have some small cams, and I prefer it to p2 of the Jam Crack. |
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