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West Face - Left Side
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Blank, The T 
Dave's Deviation T 
Dave's Deviation Direct Start T 
Devil's Delight T 
Frightful Variation T 
Gallwas' Gallop T 
Jam Crack, The T 
Jonah T 
Legends of the Fall T 
Manwich T,TR 
Piton Pooper T 
Trough, The T 
Upper Royal's Arch T 

Dave's Deviation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom Frost and Royal Robbins, 1960
Page Views: 6,097
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Midway up P2 traverse right here with a couple of ...


This route starts just right of The Jam Crack. Pitch 1 (5.9) is a very nice, clean finger and thin hands crack. Pitch 2 (5.9) starts at the left end of the Pitch 1 belay ledge. It is less sustained than pitch 1, with face climbing up a groove, then a tricky move over an overhang. Pitch 3 (5.8 R) has very poor protection, but fun climbing up a thin dihedral and face above. The route finishes at Pine Tree Ledge.


Standard rack

Photos of Dave's Deviation Slideshow Add Photo
Top section of pitch 1,"Dave's Deviation". <br /> <br /> <br />
Top section of pitch 1,"Dave's Deviation".

This is a photo of Dave Deviation with The Vampire in the distance.
This is a photo of Dave Deviation with The Vampire...
Tom Donnelly leading the first pitch of Dave's, just below the infamous finger crack.
Tom Donnelly leading the first pitch of Dave's, ju...
Taken from The Trough
Taken from The Trough
Dave's Deviation is finger crack with bush growing out of it.
Dave's Deviation is finger crack with bush growing...
First pitch
First pitch
matt starting up 1st pitch
matt starting up 1st pitch
Looking up the 2nd pitch of Dave's. There is a pin at the start and then you can get a #2 at the top of the flake before the first small runout section.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the 2nd pitch of Dave's. There is a pin...
The second runout pitch of Dave's Deviation.  Not bad really.  I think I went right of where this guy is and did a sort of no hands traverse or tenuous move or two.
The second runout pitch of Dave's Deviation. Not ...

Comments on Dave's Deviation Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 11, 2014
By David Wang
From: San Francisco, CA
May 22, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

One can reach the pine tree ledge from the bolted belay at the end of the first pitch with a single 60m rope. Combining pitches might even be preferable as the optional belay is semi-hanging and puts the anchor perilously close to the run out slab section.
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 7, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The start of this route can be identified by a small tree/bush growing out of the crack midway up the first pitch. The original start is from the left, starting up The Jam Crack. A 5.10c direct start leads up from the right which passes a small roof and then a bolt and hits the crack below the tree.

One 60m rope will get you back to the ground from the top of P1.
By John Schirmer
From: Franklin, TN
Aug 6, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route to climb when all others are taken up. Caution your belayer for he will be distracted from protecting your lead by what ever party is bailing from The Vampire. Some epics occur on that route and are in plain view from the belay stance.

Never did this whole multi pitch route. But Pitch one is classic fingers.
By Dan Hickstein
Apr 6, 2007

An incredible first pitch, but don't head down too soon! Combining this climb with the excellent 5.7+ pitch of Piton Pooper to the insane 5.8 pitch of Upper Royal's Arch is, in my book, the best climb of it's grade at Tahquitz. If you're looking for a little more challenge in your day try Dave's without touching the tree! (5.11?)
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jun 11, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fricken' awesome finger crack on the first pitch. A little painful on the feet, but more than worth it. Bring small nuts!
By The Gray Tradster
Aug 24, 2009

The tree was pruned by a lightning bolt last year.

We thought maybe someone had fallen on it, but close examination revealed the burn marks.

Not near as threatening when you get above it now.
By tom donnelly
Aug 25, 2009

Someone did also fall on the little tree.
By The Gray Tradster
Aug 25, 2009

I'm sure that tree has absorbed far more than one fall, but we did the route the day after a particularly fierce thunderstorm and the sharp upper branches were barely hanging on. Burnt to the core.

We brought the branch down in a dignified manner. It was a bad accident waiting to happen.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Apr 9, 2010

Fantastic pitch that I never tire of. Often see a crowd working on this. Great to use as a first pitch for what i think is a classic link up: Dave's to Jam Crack (pitches 2+3)to Piton Pooper (pitch 1 to link pitch) to Upper Royal Arch finish! WA-Hoo!!!
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 3, 2011

Four stars for the link-up of Dave's-Piton Pooper-Upper Royals Arch.
By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Aug 5, 2012

Pitch 2 is not overly run out if you have some small cams, and I prefer it to p2 of the Jam Crack.
By Ryan Bracci
From: Rancho Santa Margarita, CA
Sep 17, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Do it in two pitches. Not sure why the description has it in 3 pitches. Simply climb to the bolted anchor/ledge. Then climb all the way to Pine Tree Ledge.
By Colin Parker
From: Idyllwild, CA
Sep 25, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Just a note, Bob Gaines new Tahquitz book says that the second pitch starts on the right side of the P1 belay ledge and liebacks the flake until heading up and left on the face above (then around the overhang [crux])
By The Gray Tradster
Jun 5, 2014

The Jam Crack and Dave's crisscross in the same manner as The Long and Wong climbs at the first belay.

Dave's descends slightly from the ledge going left to access a crack with suspect rock, tiny pro, a 5.9 move and a for sure ankle breaker ledge below. That's where the R rating at one time came from.

Doing the second pitch of Jam Crack was always more popular and it doesn't surprise me that the new guide has it that way. I don't think I know anyone that has done the original second pitch more than once for what it's worth, (although the climbing above that crack section is pretty good).

That last photo does show the correct face move to the right for the second pitch of the Jamcrack. You can protect it with a piece in the visible crack in the upper lip of the roof and a long sling. A fall there would still be ugly, but it's only a 5.4-5.6 move.
By x15x15
Jun 11, 2014

I like the 2nd pitch of Dave's over jam crack. Better and more sustained climbing... some pro can be found. And with the line of bolts to the left, I really like clipping the bolt and turning the overlap/ roof to get to the ledge.