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Darkstar 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Flagstaff Oldschool
Page Views: 4,422
Submitted By: Mike on Nov 29, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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1 leg jam + 1 great handhold = a nice OW rest. Ne...

Description 

Climbs obvious 'lightning bolt' offwidth in between the Winsloner & Valley Girl. Start in a nice handcrack that quickly gets wide. OW past a couple nice rests to the intermediate anchors on the right just after a short chimney section, which allow one to rap/TR with a single 70m rope. Or just continue to top & use 2 ropes. A nice line.

Location 

Located downstream on the West Wall, just inside Shady Grove.

Protection 

1 #2, 1 #3, 3-4 #4, & 2 #5 camalots. Add a few more cams and a #6 if you want to feel extra secure. Bolted rap anchor at 110', or continue to top.


Photos of Darkstar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nestor Garcia climbing the Darkstar off-width at W...
Nestor Garcia climbing the Darkstar off-width at W...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nestor eyes up the last hard bit of Darkstar at Wi...
Nestor eyes up the last hard bit of Darkstar at Wi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nestor showing his O-face, his Off-width face that...
Nestor showing his O-face, his Off-width face that...
Rock Climbing Photo: dont know why people want to argue about whether t...
dont know why people want to argue about whether t...
Rock Climbing Photo: suggested rack for darkstar
suggested rack for darkstar

Comments on Darkstar Add Comment
Show which comments
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 6, 2011

i had 4 #5's and a #6, 2 #4's, a #3 and a #2. It was perfect, I used every piece. This climb is SO great!!!!!! Love it!
By Sun2Stone
From: Phoenix,AZ
Sep 20, 2011

Followed after Nestors Lead. scraped my anckels alot, did the upper crux offwidth with a lay back above the block. Cm
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Jan 27, 2012

I lead this with two 4's and a 5. It was pretty sketchy towards the top. I recommend at least two 5's and a 6.
By RyanJames
Jan 28, 2012

Darkstar is definitely one of the most aesthetic climbs in the canyon, for sure!
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Stellar. To REALLY sew this up: 2, 3, 3x4, 3x5, 3x6.
By Tradoholic
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I did this fairly safely with a rack of doubles up to C4 #5, a #1 down low then bigger stuff as you go higher. I leap frogged the 5s and slung a big chockstone near the top where a #6 would go.

A very blue collar route and harder than it looks. If you are into that sort of thing this is 4 stars. If not be prepared to suffer.
By Ethan Y
Sep 21, 2015

First route I jumped on at Winslow and so far my favorite! Did this last week with 1x2, 2x3's, 2x4's, 1x4.5. I was obviously run out at the end, but with several huge knee lock rests and other meat-squishing maneuvers, I felt secure moving to the chains. The rock quality in the last ten feet or so deteriorates a bit and there is a copious amount of loose clastic/organic material inside the crack. makes for an awesome adventure as the climber, but be mindful of your belayer.

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