Dakota Farms Cheese 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Brent Kertzman |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Aug 1, 2004 |
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Dakota Farms Cheese. Pic by Krista Diez. October '...
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Description The other bolted route on the main tower, this line ascends the steep arete to the right of the more classic 5.10 Tower Route.
Tenuous moves lead up to the second bolt. Here, the climbing eases in difficulty but offers a nice view up the exposed arete. End at the chain belay/rappel anchors at the top of the tower.
Protection bolts
BETA PHOTO: Dakota Farms Cheese
5.11a
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John K. reaching for the crimp
photo by: James Sc...
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making the clip!
photo by: James Schroeder
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Vinny with the no hands rest.
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Seth in early 2004.
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| Comments on Dakota Farms Cheese |
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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 1, 2005
rating: 5.11a
| This route was named "Dakota Cheeze Factory" by the climber who bolted and climbed it (he's from Rapid City SD area) although I am sure that it was climbed previously on top rope. I used to lead up the middle of the tower (just to left of this route) on natural gear (there was a fixed pin down low that is now gone). |
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 26, 2006
rating: 5.11a
| Thanks for the correction Brent. Memory faded.... I should have asked you for confirmation one last time.
Do you remember the route around the corner we did in that same time frame? My right big toe has never been the same. That route has been erased (as far as the bolts are concerned). I have not a problem with it though as I have since returned and led the route with natural gear.
I agree about a more generous quality rating for your arete route. Perhaps three stars? There are so few really good bolted sport routes in Sconny that it seems silly to dwell on it though. With not a real whole lot of actual climbing you can climb them all and this makes the thought of pick and choosing the best of the lot sort of silly.... Eeerrr! The midwest! |
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b
| Fantastic Climb with a tricky low crux |
By Trad Nanny
Nov 19, 2011
| Do you start directly on the corner or use the crack to the left? Seems really hard directly up the arete to start. |
By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Nov 22, 2011
| You mean the crack near the start of tower route? I definitely think it starts on the Arete proper. |
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