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Crack of Doom
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 338
votes
Routes in Morning Glory Spire
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Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Morning Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strategic Defense T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 42.08282, -113.72147 |
| FA: | Greg Lowe, 1965 |
| Page Views: | 33,088 total · 126/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Jun 8, 2004 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This is "the" 5.11 crack climb at the City. It is just to the right of Power Tools.
The start is protected by a fixed pin, which can be stick clipped. A fixed nut has remained in place about 2 feet above the pin for the last couple years. These 2 pieces protect the opening crux moves very well.
Start on the shelf to the left and traverse into the crack. Grab the correct holds and these moves are only 5.11a/b. Work the face on the right and get established in the thin finger crack. Thin crack and stem moves will lead you to a rest jam at the roof.
The second crux is moving into the hand crack above the small roof. (#3.5 Camalot and poor feet) A continuous slightly overhanging hand crack leads to a 2 bolt anchor.
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