Also, I suggest moving to the left crack below the roof earlier rather than later. Going out the roof is more like 5.9, with some fun-but-tricky moves to surmount. 5.8 is fair for the crack that goes just right of the roof.
The photo for the route shows a guy moving from the left side. However, there is a challenging and fun start starting off to the right. It DEFINITELY feels harder than 5.8, and its a reach clipping the bolt, so you might think about a spotter.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Feb 26, 2004
Direct start is probably 10 to 10+ depending on height, IMHO.
Typical Table Mtn. short route fun. The direct start is most certainly reachy, but more fun and aesthetic than starting on the left. I would guess it would push the grade to 10-.
This is a fun route and isn't a bad option when the crags are crowded since you can climb parts of this route many ways. You can do a direct start, left start, body chimney start, etc. I think I climbed it four different times and ways before moving on to the climb next to it.
By Ian Welch From: Denver, CO Oct 5, 2006 rating: 5.8