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Traveler Buttress 

5.9

   

FA: Dick long, Al Steck, 1965
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 500 feet
Views: 1,279 page views

Submitted By: Salamanizer on Apr 4, 2006


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Scotts ass in the notorious offwidth pitch of Trav...


Description 

The crux of this route is the notorious offwidth second pitch. It can be well protected with a #4 Camalot placed deep in the crack. Most parties prefer two #4s though I have led it safely with one #3.

The first pitch starts down on the Tombstone ledge and is a 5.7 serrated crack that has a short flaring 5.8 crux up high. Careful on the crux, it comes just above an ankle crushing ledge.

The second pitches O.W. is rewarded by one of the best hand cracks at the Leap.

The third pitch climbs a rapidly steepening face to a fixed pin and then rounds a very windy and exposed arete, across an exposed ledge and up to two fixed pins that can be backed up with a .75" piece.

The rest of the route is a classic 4th-class to easy-5th-class dike hike that climbs up the face to the top. Not much harder than climbing a ladder.


Location 

Start on the Tombstone ledge and follow a serrated crack just to the right of Boot hill. Or you can skip the first pitch (not recommended) and start at the offwidth second pitch just around the corner from Corrugation Corner. If you skip the first pitch, sorry, "you have not climbed Travelers Buttress" only part of it.


Protection 

Cams, .5" - 4"; Nuts, 1 set.



Add Photo Photos of Traveler Buttress
Traveler's Buttress profile.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Traveler's Buttress profile.
Photo by Blitzo.


Traveler's Buttress P1, harder than it looks.

BETA PHOTO: Traveler's Buttress P1, harder than it looks.

Traveler Buttress climbs the cracks at the center of the photo, left of the arête. Corrugation Corner is the huge right facing corner.

Traveler Buttress climbs the cracks at the center ...

looking down from the top of the 3rd pitch

looking down from the top of the 3rd pitch

leading up to the arete on the 3rd pitch

leading up to the arete on the 3rd pitch

leading the crux pitch

leading the crux pitch

First pitch of Traveler Buttress.

First pitch of Traveler Buttress.

The second pitch offwidth of Traveler Buttress.

The second pitch offwidth of Traveler Buttress.

The great third pitch of Traveler Buttress.

The great third pitch of Traveler Buttress.


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By caughtinside
From: Point Richmond, CA
May 29, 2007

I think the first pitch (below main ledge) is a sandbag at 5.8. More like 5.9...+?