Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
great climb. Nice crack in the celling at the end ...
Description
A great beginner route with excellent exposure. Rated 5.1 in Vogel's guidebook, this route in my opinion warrants a slightly stiffer rating. Begin in alcove up low-angle crack. Continue onto steep face with great holds for a full rope length (approx. 150') to the top. Gear belay.
Also makes for a nice free solo at the end of the day.
Descent: walk east down the backside and back around (north) to your pack.
I definitely agree about the rating. No way this thing is 5.1!! It's pretty exposed, and there aren't a lot of solid gear placements either. This would make a great beginner climb as a TR, but I definitely wouldn't recommend it for the inexperienced trad leader.
It's in an interesting location, and it ends in a really neat slot, but I wasn't all that impressed with the climbing itself.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Nov 6, 2002
If you do end up toproping the route, be sure to bring 2 ropes. I think you can get away without having to pass the knot, but I can't be certain.
This route should be rated 5.3 or 5.4, not 5.1 (in Vogel's book). I think this is a classic climb. The exposure is great for the grade and the belay is at the edge of a natural rock tunnel with a spectacular view. I enjoy this route every time I climb it.
I like to finish off my day cooling down on this climb and watch the sunset from the summit (don't everyone rush to this climb at sunset... :-) It has super cool natural features making the actual climb very fun with options. The route does have a certain amount of exposure (for J-Tree). This was my second trad lead ever, so it has a bit of sentimentality to it for me. I thought it was an excellent beginner climb with various options for pro. I'd give it a 5.3 or 5.4 rating though. As far as my lucky stars, I'd dub it *** if climbed at sunset and ** if climbed any other time.
This thing is better as a solo than a lead. There are ok gear placements higher up but a fall wouldn't be pretty from any part due to all the ledges. Good thing the climbing is really easy.
My buddy and I free soloed this and were a little surprised at the committing level with how steep it was. The holds are crazy big though and the route killer!
By Bill Rusk From: Duluth, MN Jan 29, 2008 rating: 5.3
This route was my first trad lead. I have lead a couple since then and I have to say that I was able to place plenty of gear on the Eye. Long runners are nice. There is definant risk of decking onto a ledge but a climber who is starting to lead trad should be able to pull those easy moves no problem. Fun route.
By Jay Strine From: Rancho Cucamonga, CA Apr 14, 2008
I agree with most this is more than a 5.1. I feel it is more of a 5.4. Took a while to set up top ropes, but it is do-albe.
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