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Black Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ajax T 
Birdie S 
Black September T 
Bliss T 
Bliss Direct T 
Blowups Happen T 
Bourbon Street T 
Can't Stop the Dance T 
Cannibal Gully T 
Centerfold T 
Don't Try This At Home S 
Empty Overgo T 
Empty Sky Direct T 
Finger Licker T,TR 
Firecracker T 
Full Moon T 
Full Tilt T 
Headstone T 
Hungover Hangover T 
Indian Summer T 
Inside Out  T 
Labyrinth T 
Lightning Bolt Roof T 
Mojito Run T 
Mr. Clean T 
New Fascination T 
New Moon T 
Next T,S 
No Stems No Seeds T 
On Ramp T 
One Hand Clapping T 
Pinball Junkie T,S 
Primer T 
Rat Ramp S 
Rat's Tooth T 
Rated X T 
Rythym Killer S 
Sky Pilot T 
Skywalker T 
Slipstream T 
Space Invaders S 
Space Modulator T 
Summer Breeze S 
Super Slab T 
There Goes The Neighborhood T 
Torture Chamber S 
Touch A Cannibal T 
Touch and Go T 
Yellow Zonker T 

Black Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.3256, -120.3123 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,707
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Aug 4, 2005
Forecast:
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Mark Hudon on "Full Tilt", 5.11a, 1979. ...

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Description 

Black Wall is the largest rock formation in the Donner Summit area. The large east facing wall is the first rock formation you encounter on the right as you drive up from Donner Lake. Many routes are 3 or 4 pitches in length to a height of 400-600 feet. Although most of the routes are trad requiring a good solid standard rack, there does exist some sport routes also. To descend, walk off the left side (west) and follow trail down and eventually cut back left over a ridge to gain access to bottom of cliffs.

Getting There 

Driving up from Donner Lake, Black Wall is the first rock formation you come to on the right side sitting high above the road. If you are driving from the west, you would exit at the Soda Springs/Donner Pass Road exit off of I-80. Continue on Donner Pass Road east for several miles to reach to the Donner Summit area. You will pass many climbing formations as you drive down the hill. Black Wall will be the very last one on the left side. There is a small parking pull off area. There are two ways to approach the cliffs. For climbs on the left side, follow a small trail that begins up a little from the parking area. The trail meanders up and eventually you just climb boulder to boulder to get through the boulder field heading straight up to the cliffs. To gain the right side, it is easier to follow a small trail just left of a small creek. Follow trail and creek bed to a point where the trail turns left to the base of the wall. Approach is about 10-15 minutes if you are acclimated to the higher 7000' altitude. If you are arriving from the Bay area, expect the approach to be a little tiring! Beautiful rock in a beautiful setting!

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.9 miles from here

49 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',30],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',5],['5.10',19],['5.11',17],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Black Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Black Wall:
Labyrinth   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Cannibal Gully   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
Rated X   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Primer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
One Hand Clapping   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Touch and Go   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   
Black September   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Rat's Tooth   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Hungover Hangover   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Touch A Cannibal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Rat Ramp   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Firecracker   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Bourbon Street   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
New Fascination   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
New Moon   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Finger Licker   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Slipstream   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Headstone   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
There Goes The Neighborhood   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Full Moon   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Black Wall

Featured Route For Black Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: A very striking and unique line. The Touch and Go ...

Touch and Go 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Black Wall
NOTE: The Carville guide shows this as a right hand variation to the Rat's Tooth. The 1986 Jenkewitz-Meytras guide shows this as Touch and Go. Given the volume of errors in the Carville guide, I think this is touch and go.On the right side of the Rat's Tooth is this climb, which goes up a cool looking flaring squeeze, with the rat's tooth flake at your back. There is a handcrack all the way up the back, so this climb protects really well, always nice in a chimney!Physical moves up steep rock...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Black Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Peregrine falcon @top of P2.  Her chicks were real...
Peregrine falcon @top of P2. Her chicks were real...
Rock Climbing Photo: Met this Guy today and tried to e-mail this pic to...
Met this Guy today and tried to e-mail this pic to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Birdie,  an old school classic.  11b.  Fun sport r...
Birdie, an old school classic. 11b. Fun sport r...

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