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Black Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birdie S 
Black September T 
Bliss T 
Bliss Direct T,S 
Blowups Happen T 
Bourbon Street T 
Can't Stop the Dance T,S 
Cannibal Gully T 
Centerfold T 
Don't Try This At Home S 
Empty Overgo T 
Empty Sky Direct T 
Finger Licker T,TR 
Firecracker T 
Full Moon T 
Full Tilt T 
Headstone T 
Hungover Hangover T 
Indian Summer T 
Inside Out  T 
Labyrinth T 
Lightning Bolt Roof T 
Mojito Run T 
Mr. Clean T 
New Fascination T 
New Moon T 
Next T,S 
No Stems No Seeds T 
On Ramp T 
One Hand Clapping T 
Pinball Junkie T,S 
Primer T 
Rat Ramp S 
Rat's Tooth T 
Rated X T 
Rythym Killer S 
Sky Pilot T 
Skywalker T 
Slipstream T 
Space Invaders S 
Space Modulator T 
Summer Breeze S 
Super Slab T,S 
There Goes The Neighborhood T,S 
Touch A Cannibal T 
Touch and Go T 

Black Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.3256, -120.3123 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 40,459
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Aug 4, 2005
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Mark Hudon on "Full Tilt", 5.11a, 1979.
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Description 

Black Wall is the largest rock formation in the Donner Summit area. The large east facing wall is the first rock formation you encounter on the right as you drive up from Donner Lake. Many routes are 3 or 4 pitches in length to a height of 400-600 feet. Although most of the routes are trad requiring a good solid standard rack, there does exist some sport routes also. To descend, walk off the left side (west) and follow trail down and eventually cut back left over a ridge to gain access to bottom of cliffs.


Getting There 

Driving up from Donner Lake, Black Wall is the first rock formation you come to on the right side sitting high above the road. If you are driving from the west, you would exit at the Soda Springs/Donner Pass Road exit off of I-80. Continue on Donner Pass Road east for several miles to reach to the Donner Summit area. You will pass many climbing formations as you drive down the hill. Black Wall will be the very last one on the left side. There is a small parking pull off area. There are two ways to approach the cliffs. For climbs on the left side, follow a small trail that begins up a little from the parking area. The trail meanders up and eventually you just climb boulder to boulder to get through the boulder field heading straight up to the cliffs. To gain the right side, it is easier to follow a small trail just left of a small creek. Follow trail and creek bed to a point where the trail turns left to the base of the wall. Approach is about 10-15 minutes if you are acclimated to the higher 7000' altitude. If you are arriving from the Bay area, expect the approach to be a little tiring! Beautiful rock in a beautiful setting!


46 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',5],['5.10',19],['5.11',15],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Wall:
Labyrinth   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Rated X   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
One Hand Clapping   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Primer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Touch and Go   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   
Black September   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Rat's Tooth   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Hungover Hangover   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Touch A Cannibal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Rat Ramp   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 110'   
Firecracker   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Bourbon Street   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
New Fascination   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Bliss   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
New Moon   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Finger Licker   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Slipstream   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 75'   
Headstone   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 30'   
There Goes The Neighborhood   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 85'   
Full Moon   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Black Wall

Featured Route For Black Wall
Photo shows belays with the optional belay near the end of pitch two.  You could belay here anyways and still climb up and left to Lizard Ledge on easier ground.

One Hand Clapping 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Black Wall
One Hand Clapping starts on a ledge on the main Black Wall face below an obvious tall, twin crack system slanting right. Climb the twin cracks requiring good hand jamming techniques (5.8) and continue up to a belay with bolted anchors. Climb the steep, thin crack above to a slab. Continue up and left (a little runout here) and continue up and left through a steep, weird, intimidating, slanting left flaring corner. Getting around the end of the corner, over the bulge, and onto the face is the...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Black Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Peregrine falcon @top of P2.  Her chicks were really close to two bolted anchors on the left of the head wall (I don't know what route that was)
Peregrine falcon @top of P2. Her chicks were real...
Met this Guy today and tried to e-mail this pic to him. Tried several times with what I was given and couldn't get through so here it is. <br /> <br />Photo: Andy Peter Tretiakoff attahoe@hotmail.com
Met this Guy today and tried to e-mail this pic to...
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