Mark Hudon on "Full Tilt", 5.11a, 1979. ...
Black Wall is the largest rock formation in the Donner Summit area. The large east facing wall is the first rock formation you encounter on the right as you drive up from Donner Lake. Many routes are 3 or 4 pitches in length to a height of 400-600 feet. Although most of the routes are trad requiring a good solid standard rack, there does exist some sport routes also. To descend, walk off the left side (west) and follow trail down and eventually cut back left over a ridge to gain access to bottom of cliffs.
Driving up from Donner Lake, Black Wall is the first rock formation you come to on the right side sitting high above the road. If you are driving from the west, you would exit at the Soda Springs/Donner Pass Road exit off of I-80. Continue on Donner Pass Road east for several miles to reach to the Donner Summit area. You will pass many climbing formations as you drive down the hill. Black Wall will be the very last one on the left side. There is a small parking pull off area. There are two ways to approach the cliffs. For climbs on the left side, follow a small trail that begins up a little from the parking area. The trail meanders up and eventually you just climb boulder to boulder to get through the boulder field heading straight up to the cliffs. To gain the right side, it is easier to follow a small trail just left of a small creek. Follow trail and creek bed to a point where the trail turns left to the base of the wall. Approach is about 10-15 minutes if you are acclimated to the higher 7000' altitude. If you are arriving from the Bay area, expect the approach to be a little tiring! Beautiful rock in a beautiful setting!
Weather station 2.9 miles from here
49 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',30],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Black Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Black Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Black Wall:
Labyrinth 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Rated X 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Primer 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Rat's Tooth 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Rat Ramp 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Firecracker 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Bliss 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
New Moon 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Slipstream 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Headstone 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Full Moon 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Black Wall
Touch and Go 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CA
: Tahoe Vicinity
: ... : Black Wall
NOTE: The Carville guide shows this as a right hand variation to the Rat's Tooth. The 1986 Jenkewitz-Meytras guide shows this as Touch and Go. Given the volume of errors in the Carville guide, I think this is touch and go.On the right side of the Rat's Tooth is this climb, which goes up a cool looking flaring squeeze, with the rat's tooth flake at your back. There is a handcrack all the way up the back, so this climb protects really well, always nice in a chimney!Physical moves up steep rock...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Apr 27, 2016
Can any admins out there help me figure out how to post this in the raptor info section?
About ten days ago, Gary Allan found this year's nest at Black Wall, which is in the grotto at the base of Rambo Crack up Cannibal Gully. We (Truckee Donner Land Trust/Access Fund and the Save Donner Climbing group) are asking everybody to please respect a seasonal closure of routes from the left side of Cannibal Gully on the left to Hungover Hangover/Empty Sky on the right. Primer should be fine, as well as anything around the corner to the right (One Hand Clapping), but the belay stance at the top of Rat's Tooth was close enough to agitate this bird. This female seemed a bit more high-strung than birds in recent years, and is possibly a new individual, so we just want to keep folks out of that gully or line of sight. Affected routes include: Touch and Go, Hungover Hangover, Rat's Tooth, Empty Sky, Rhythm Killer, Pinball Junkie, Inner Recess, Rambo Crack, Space Invaders, and Bourbon Street).
There are still plenty of other routes to choose from, at Black Wall and elsewhere at Donner. Lizard Ledge is out of sight and should be okay, however, when hiking or climbing outside this closure buffer but nearby, please avoid disturbance, keep noise to a minimum, and use your best judgement to gauge and mitigate your impact.
We'll be monitoring the nest, and the closure will be lifted when nesting activities have ceased for the year. The nest had two eggs, and she was incubating, so they may wrap up by mid-July, but these routes are closed until further notice.
If anybody has any questions about the birds or status updates (which would be welcome), feel free to shoot me a PM, and if you have other questions you can email John Svahn at the Truckee Donner Land Trust: email@example.com; 530.582.4711