|Type:||Trad, Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Warren Teissier on Jun 8, 2001 with updates from Eric Waag|
|Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Atalanta||Add Comment|
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By Mark Oveson
From: Louisville, Colorado
Sep 6, 2006
|This is the best of the short routes high on the East Face of the First Flatiron. The crux is short and secure. A climb not to be missed.|
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2006
|The piton is still there, look carefully about 15 feet ABOVE the crux. It looks like someone bent it over with a hammer, you couldn't clip a biner into it. You could sling it with a runner, though.|
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Dec 1, 2013
|I did an interesting variation above the first tree. Head left to a ramp system that turns into a hanging dihedral. The ramp slowing disppears until the crux bulge (5.6). It is very exposed with good rock (poor pro).|
By Daniel H. Bryant
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 7, 2014
|Entered onto this route at the large tree mid-way, we took Kamikaze straight up to it. We connected the top of the first 70m pitch of Kamikaze to the big tree via a 70m pitch. If you decide to try this, be careful cause there are weak/decomposing flakes along this pitch (easy climbing but sketchy rock), 2/3 along this pitch is a bulge, I went left and it felt 5.6ish, the right looked a bit harder.|
By Andres Fernandez
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 27, 2015
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Just to the right of Hubris, which I've never done.
1st pitch goes up 4th class gully and then takes a left toward the first set of trees. You'll use half a rope length. 5.3. You can also just go directly up to the first tree and that's more 5.2 I'd say.
2nd pitch follows the ramp/dihedral and could be 5.3. Not a lot of areas to place protection. That ends at the big tree. The crux is trying to place a small cam then surmount the bulge overhang, which is pretty iffy protection but the move is relatively straighforward.
(Below: My variation from standard Atalanta for pitches 3 and 4.)
3rd pitch is short, since there can be horrible rope drag if you go up and left to where you then downclimb (to the last part of Hubris) and then go to the last saddle before the top. I'd recommend going to just before down climbing where you can use slings to wrap around some bomber rock tubes (mini-arches).
Standard route: you can go right too for the penultimate saddle. Seemed easier than going left.
4th pitch takes you to the top, and I recommend stemming. You pass a tree and then get to easier terrain. Not great for placing protection either. This I'd classify as 5.4 for the smoothness and lack of protection choices.
You can finish the 4th pitch by doing the 5.7 2-3 move mantle to the top right after getting to the saddle instead of taking the ramp 10 feet to the west.