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Arkansas
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Arkansas

Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 24, 2006
Latitude: 34.7055  Longitude: -92.2852 
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Photo by Jim Grace


Description 

Anyone ready for some backwoods climbing. That's right, there ain't no high alpine to be found here. There's just down and dirty backwoods climbing on high-quality sandstone. Though overlooked for a long time by the big names, the locals haven't complained. Over the years they have put up excellent quality natural lines from the classic dihedral Poison Ivy(5.7+) to harder lines such as Titanic (5.11X) and Bear Bait(5.12- S), all at Sam's Throne. In addition to trad routes, the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch hosts a number of excellent quality bolted lines of all difficulties, even up to The Prophet(5.14a).

Guidebook: Arkansas Rock: Volume I by Clay Frisbie. Put out by Boston Mountain Press, the same publisher that put out the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch guide in 2006.


Getting There 

Ahh, the midwest.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Arkansas:
Poison Ivy   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch, 55 feet   The Throne : Poison Ivy Wall
The Greatest Show on Earth   5.8     Sport   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty
Green Goblin   5.8     Sport, 65 feet   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty
Man Servant   5.9     Sport, 55 feet   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Mr. Magoo Rock
Private Property   5.9+     Sport, 55 feet   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty
WMA Crack   5.9+     Trad, 60 feet   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Confederate Cracks
Hackberry Crack   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Confederate Cracks
Gimp and Wheezer   5.10a     Sport, 65 feet   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Confederate Cracks
Monkeys on Magoo   5.10a     Sport, 55 feet   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Mr. Magoo Rock
Comotus   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Roman Wall
Crimp Scampi   5.10+     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades   5.11a     Sport, 60 feet   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East
Port Side   5.11a     Sport, 35 feet   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Titanic Boulder
Big Top   5.11b     Sport, 65 feet   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty
Sonny Jim   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty
Boronocus   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Roman Wall
Arkansas Reality   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 55 feet   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
Mine Mine Mine   5.12a     Sport, 50 feet   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty
SuperNatural   5.12     Trad, 65 feet   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
Cradle of the Deep   5.13a     Sport   Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Titanic Boulder
Browse More Classics in Arkansas


Featured Route For Arkansas
John K's onsight of Hackberry Crack

Hackberry Crack 5.9+  AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Confederate Cracks
Excellent Hands splitter. Pass a flared section about 15' up, then jam through the crux bulge. Great jams from bottom to top. Only complaint is that it's not longer....[more]   Browse More Classics in AR


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By Jason Haas
From: Westminster, CO
Nov 2, 2009

The new comprehensive, color guidebook for the entire state by Cole Fennel and Fixed Pin Publishing is now available in stores. It details nearly 1500 routes and 350 boulder problems.

Areas described include:

Lake Lincoln
Shepherd Springs
Fern
Mt. Magazine
Dardanelle
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Cowell
Haw Creek
Cave Creek
Deliverance
Valley of the Blind
Sam's Throne
Stack Rock
Jamestown Crag