Elevation: 390 ft
GPS: 34.781, -92.329 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,382 total · 2,101/month
Shared By: Tyler KC on Apr 5, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Description

This region contains all of the climbing south of the Arkansas River.  The rock fades from a savannah sandstone type texture to a more bullet, quartzite like texture the further you go south.  There are less crags in this region, however the well established areas have rightfully persisted!

The two best areas in this region are Mount Magazine State Park and Dardanelle Rock.  Mount Mag' is an old school climbing area relative to other AR crags, unsurprising as it was one of the first climbing areas in Arkansas.  It hosts some of the first trad and sport lines put up in the state, and has begun to see more recent development for an all around great crag with a variety of styles and grades.  The rock tends to be harder with less friction than other zones in the state, and the climbing tends to flow a bit differently here than the more thuggy areas - people who like western climbing tend to adjust to this unique AR crag more easily than those who've spent more time in areas like Rock Creek, Hudson, etc. Other things to note - tallest point in the state, incredibly short approach, best winter crag on cold sunny days (completely south facing), multiple camping options, & you can always go hang out and grab a beverage at the Lodge's restaurant "The Bear's Den" that sits atop the crag!

Another great spot is Dardanelle Rock, being super close to Little Rock & not far from i-40, this is a convenient crag & a sport climber's dream... that is if you climb 5.10 or above.  The climbing here is tough, but proud - containing some of the best 5.12s in the state. It also hosts a few decent moderate trad routes.  The Arkansas Climber's Coalition has adopted this crag through a program with the City of Dardanelle & AR Natural Heritage Commission, so if you notice anything that needs to be cleaned up or otherwise, shoot an email to info@arkansasclimbers.org

Getting There

Mt. Magazine: If coming from the West on i-40, take exit 35 toward Ozark. If coming from the East on i-40, take exit 88 towards Pottsville.  Sign in at the Visitor's Center. Park on the West side of the lot at the Lodge.

165 Total Climbs

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Location: River Valley and Ouachitas Region Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at River Valley and Ouachitas Region

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
Cruise Control
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 25
Multi Colored Poptart
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 15
Radical Changes
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 32
Right to Flight/ The Nose
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 3
W.A.P. (Wet Ass Pitch)
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Sonya Come Home
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Quaranteam
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Scarlet Begonias
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Natural Stimulant
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Mirage De Sade
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
Moneyshot
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Smoke Ice
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
French Connection
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Eggspecting
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Jupiter Trembled
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cruise Control Mt Magazine SP > Mt Magazine Proper > Crag Central
 31
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Multi Colored Poptart Mt Magazine SP > Mt Magazine Proper > Breakfast Wall
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Radical Changes Mt Magazine SP > Mt Magazine Proper > Hallucinogen Wall
 15
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Right to Flight/ The Nose Mt Magazine SP > Mt Magazine Proper > Crag Central
 32
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
W.A.P. (Wet Ass Pitch) Mt Magazine SP > Mt Magazine Proper > Breakfast Wall
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Sonya Come Home Mt Magazine SP > Mt Magazine Proper > Crag Central
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Quaranteam Mt Magazine SP > Mt Magazine Proper > Breakfast Wall
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Scarlet Begonias Mt Magazine SP > Mt Magazine Proper > Crag Central
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Natural Stimulant Mt Magazine SP > Mt Magazine Proper > Breakfast Wall
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Mirage De Sade Mt Magazine SP > Mt Magazine Proper > Hallucinogen Wall
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Moneyshot Dardanelle Rock
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Smoke Ice Dardanelle Rock
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
French Connection Mt Magazine SP > Mt Magazine Proper > Crag Central
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Eggspecting Mt Magazine SP > Mt Magazine Proper > Breakfast Wall
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Jupiter Trembled Mt Magazine SP > Mt Magazine Proper > Breakfast Wall
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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