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Green Slabs
Routes Sorted
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Mother Ps ycho's Little Darlins 
Banana Cake (Buttress) 
Blade Runner 
David and Goliath 
Fathers Dazed 
Grass is Greener..., The 
Green Banana Jam 
Green Eggs And Cams 
Greenhorn 
Here and Gone 
Hooterville 
Josh and Dave's Route 
Jump for Joyce 
Krack a Tack 
Little Jack Corner 
Missing in Action 
Missing the Action 
Monkey Business 
My Left Foot 
No Stars 
Pettycoat Junction 
Rock Candy 
Samson and Dalieback 
Time Warp 
Toy Roof 
Wits End 
Wrench Warfare 
Wrist Rocket 
Yurt Monkey 
Unsorted Routes:

Mother Psycho's Little Darlins 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 1980's
Season: any (not mid summer)
Page Views: 647
Submitted By: CALEB ANDERSON on Oct 22, 2011
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Derek, finishing the last crux.

Description 

Ascends the steep, very thin face to the right of "Green Banana Jam". Climb on thin edges and thin side-pulls for 25' until you get a good rest, you'll want to throw a cam or two before pulling onto the upper headwall. Continue up through five bolts of amazing but technical face moves.


Location 

Easy to locate, just look up. It is the bolted line Right of Banana Jam Crack


Protection 

Friends and quickdraws (7-bolts)



Photos of Mother Psycho's Little Darlins Slideshow Add Photo
Superstar on the first thin section.
Superstar on the first thin section.
Great place to take a first fall on gear (and hangdog for a while).
Great place to take a first fall on gear (and hang...
Comments on Mother Psycho's Little Darlins Add Comment
Show which comments
By CALEB ANDERSON
Oct 22, 2011

Followed this today after Derek led it up. Wonderful movement throughout.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 24, 2011

Wow guys! Nice work! :)

By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Nov 29, 2011

! Thanks Geir , Same goes to you on your recent FAs.

By Robert Flore
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Yeah, Derek and Caleb, congrats on getting up this one! Mother Psycho is a tough lead! About 1992 I watched two "elite level" french climbers thrash themselves into exhaustion before they finally got it.

Bob Flaugher and Bill Clinch put this one up in March of 1990. I think Scot Ayers did this one a few months later and gave it an 11+ rating, but I think 12a is closer. At least two stars, and I'd give it three myself.

By Jake Croft
From: Tucson, Az
Feb 11, 2014

This was my first 5.12 send, and incidentally first fall on gear back sometime in early 2013. Anyways I remember it being an awesome route, definitely worth doing
Also I vaguely remember the rope almost getting stuck after lowering off it so be careful as I think the anchors ontop of the ledge