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Routes in Green Slabs (South Face)

Mother Psycho's Little Darlins T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Banana Cake (Buttress) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blade Runner S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
David and Goliath T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fathers Dazed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Banana Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Here and Gone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Josh and Dave's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump for Joyce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krack a Tack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Missing in Action T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Business T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Left Foot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Stars T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Not KIA T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock Candy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Samson and Dalieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
So-o-o Swe-e-et T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Toy Roof T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unknown 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wits End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wrench Warfare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yurt Monkey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Dave Baker and Josh Tofield
Page Views: 943 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jerry Cagle on Aug 3, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Crux could be up high if you choose to do a direct finish.

Location

The obvious crack system immediately left of Yurt Monkey. The top is face...

Protection

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Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.8- PG13
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.8- PG13
Like the climbers above I ended up running out the last third of the climb. Mellow territory but a fall could be ugly. Apparently a chickenhead can be slung as protection but I missed it. Jul 4, 2009
i agree with david - your last piece is a solid #2 cam but the rope drag is heinous. the top is run out. Jan 11, 2009
David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
I climbed this straight up the buttress and did not find any good placements above the crack. The pro I did place was purely psychological. Be prepared to run out the entire top of this route. Jan 3, 2009
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
 
Jerry Cagle   Tucson, AZ
 
STL II gives this a .8, but seems easier to me... There's a mental crux at the top if you don't cop out and skirt around to the left. I rarely see anyone on this one. Could be because of the challenge in getting down. You could thread the anchors on Yurt Monkey, but it's a PITA and there are often people climbing it. I left some slings and rap rings up there in a much easier position to rap from a couple of times in the past, but people have stolen them (yes, stolen A**H***...!) Aug 3, 2008