Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Sather Ekblad, Kevin Carmichael 1994
Page Views: 2,523 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 27, 2003 with updates from rob bauer
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Description

Squeezing the Lemon II has this in the wrong location. Low down on the south side of Green Slabs is a smooth concave brown face. The big chimney on the left side of this face is Monkey Business. On the right side of this face is Banana Pudding and Josh and Dave's Route. The arete bounding the right side of this face is the start of Yurt Monkey. In the overhead topo on page 52 in Squeezing the Lemmon II, Yurt Monkey is just right of #12, NOT where it is indicated by #14.

Start just right of the arete. Climb up to a bolt, step left around the arete, up a bit using several thin flakes, then back right to a ledge. I thought this was the crux section. Continue up the straightforward face to the anchors. At the last move I moved left to near the arete.

Nice enough route, but nothing special. Nowhere near as steep as it looks in the photo on page 42 of Squeezing the Lemmon II.

Protection

Approximately 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with chains. It's a long way between bolts 2 and 3 and between 3 and 4 with ground fall potential. I used a green Alien between 2 and 3 and a #2 Offset Friend between 3 and 4. Anything in that size range would work.

Photos

Gary Sax
  5.9
Gary Sax  
  5.9
I enjoy this route. However, I find most routes rated with a + a bit harder and would call it 5.9. The crux is down low but it is pretty sustained 5.8 the rest of the way. Jul 2, 2004
Wes Turner
az / pa
  5.8+
Wes Turner   az / pa
  5.8+
Some may want a nut when you get about half way. If your pushing it and blow it your in big trouble if ya fall. granted it is easy but like I said...don't fall Aug 10, 2004
Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
Scott Tucker   Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
Start could be close to 5.9. Would recommend a piece of gear for the vertical crack on the runout between the middle bolts. Sustained and good fun. Feb 28, 2006
Christian Roda o Back
Casa do Cacete
Christian Roda o Back   Casa do Cacete
Yep, definite groundfall potential between bolts 2 and 3 if you blow the traverse to the right.. Jul 7, 2006
Braxtron
...
  5.8+
Braxtron   ...
  5.8+
Fun route. Bolt spacing keeps things interesting. I think the only place for pro is between bolts 3 & 4 (20' run-out). 6 bolts + anchor. Feb 5, 2007
joshf
missoula, mt
  5.8+
joshf   missoula, mt
  5.8+
I would say that the pro, where it is available, is marginal at best on this route. There are cracks on the route but they are not one's that would hold whippers. If my memory serves me correctly, there is also an odd flake/bubble to the left about fifteen feet off the ground that is the only hold. It feels a little unsound. Bottom line, have a good belayer that can pay attention, if you whip in specific places you will be on the ground unless the belayer starts sprinting (jogging wont do it) down hill. The grade seems dead on, but if your not used to climbing above gear, especially crap gear, go somewhere else. Nov 23, 2007
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.8+ PG13
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.8+ PG13
this sandbagged route will take a solid nut between bolts 3 and 4. without it, though, it definitely deserves a solid R rating. you can easily deck between bolts 2 and 3, and even between bolts 3 and 4. even with the nut it's still probably PG13 material. i brought only draws and scared my belayer shitless (and i was getting a bit sketched myself). =)

all this being said, it's a lot of fun. ;) Jul 28, 2008
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Jerry Cagle   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
I wouldn't call it sandbagged exactly. Tim Lee told me that there was a key hold on the start that broke off some time in the past. Probably makes the start a somewhat awkward .9. It is rather sustained too IMNSHO... Caveat: If you're leading don't forget that there's a large, rather sold block below and behind you when you get up 20 or so feet. Note also that STL II has this route and "Here and Gone" transposed on the topo. Aug 3, 2008
Johnny Ice
Tucson, AZ
Johnny Ice   Tucson, AZ
I like this climb because its balancy and thought provoking but at the same time its not too hard. It can be a little run out but I found a bolt wherever I needed one. Fun climb Mar 30, 2011
Enjoyed this route 10/22/11. 5.8+ all the way. Oct 22, 2011
Johnny Ice is right on. Apr 26, 2012
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
  5.8
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
  5.8
The top of this climb is quite fun. Good edges abound and some decent exposure is possible if you look down valley near the top. Chill pills are recommended if you plan on leading this without placing pro. Dec 23, 2012
attila  
Take a BD #1 and BD #2 along to protect between the run out bolt placements. Dec 27, 2012
David Adams  
 
I thought the gear was super solid. Great route. May 6, 2013
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.8+
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
  5.8+
Upon the urging of a user and the comments above, this route has been reclassified as 'Trad'. Jan 28, 2015