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Routes in Green Slabs (South Face)

Mother Psycho's Little Darlins T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Banana Cake (Buttress) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blade Runner S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
David and Goliath T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fathers Dazed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Banana Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Here and Gone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Josh and Dave's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump for Joyce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krack a Tack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Missing in Action T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Business T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Left Foot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Stars T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Not KIA T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock Candy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Samson and Dalieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
So-o-o Swe-e-et T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Toy Roof T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unknown 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wits End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wrench Warfare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yurt Monkey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Scott Clark, Nicole Clark, Vince Greene, Ben Burnham
Page Views: 950 total, 6/month
Shared By: Vincent Greene on Mar 13, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Nice, well protected natural line. Starts down and left of Wrench Warfare, about 150-175 yards uphill from Jump for Joyce. Look for a natural ramp to blocks with a fist sized crack above a ledge. Clip the bolt on the lower block to make first committing move (5.8ish), Straight up to a ledge. Crux is a lieback to the right to enter the main crack system - then up the crack to the chains -protecting as often as you want. You can scramble around the back of Krack a Tack to reach the chains if you wish to toprope.

Protection

Protects great with medium cams i.e. #3 Camalot in main crack. One bolt protects a committing move down low. 2- 1/2" Rawl 5 piece bolts with grade 43 cold shuts and grade 43 chains on top.

Photos

Derek Anderson
Tucson,AZ
Derek Anderson   Tucson,AZ
have to agree with the bolt being useless.... horizontal pro Apr 4, 2011
I disagree that the first bolt needs to be there. (Other than to suggest the route starts there) Did you notice the large (Think big cam) horizontal your stuffing your hands into as you pull the first bulge. It's a fun route May 29, 2005
Forest Hill
Denver, CO
  5.9
Forest Hill   Denver, CO
  5.9
This was great great fun. The one bolt is highly appropriate where it is, and the pro on the rest of the route is anywhere you want it to be. The 2nd half of the climb has 30 feet or so of rare Mt Lemmon crack, and for that I definitely give it two stars. Aug 16, 2004
WARNING - In the photo you see the best way to make the crux lieback move from the ledge. The face to the left also looks promising, but the big block you stand on on that side is loose. You could give yourself and your belayer a really bad day by knocking it loose. Mar 16, 2004
This is named for Scotts bad right hip -- he had to lead it with his left foot. Hip Hip Hooray was also suggested. Mar 14, 2004