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Anatomy of Stone
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Green Slabs (SW Face)
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Amateur Night T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Anatomy of Stone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Banana Cake Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Banana Pudding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Blade Runner S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cherry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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David and Goliath T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fathers Dazed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Funky Business ("Monkey Business" chimney variation) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Green Banana Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Here and Gone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Josh and Dave's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Jump for Joyce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Krack a Tack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Missing in Action T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Monkey Business T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mother Psycho's Little Darlins T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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My Left Foot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Stars T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Not KIA T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rock Candy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Samson and Dalieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snakeskin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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So-o-o Swe-e-et T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tinaballina S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Toy Roof T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Unknown 5.8 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wits End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wrench Warfare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Yurt Monkey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | KLBM, RDTM, '21 |
| Page Views: | 319 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 16, 2022 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Just above the obvious hand Jam pod you clip a bolt that could have been closer to the seam. The crux is tenous and the ground close so it is a nice bolt to have. Just past that a bomber stopper can be had. About two feet above that I placed a maybe okay but NOT bomber small Metolius purple 4 cam unit. Then worked right up to a good horizontal. It is a long run and if you fell clipping or placing the cam and the small cam below blew you would come very close to the deck if you didn't hit it. I tried other options and looked for a solid piece higher up in the crack/seam but there was nothing I could find. Caveat: I don't carry Tri-cams. Hahaha. They wouldn't have worked either. Whoever put this up didn't have any problem with a bolt close to gear below so I hope when they recognize that I am talking about their route they will add a bolt somewhere above the last two pieces. Definitely a nice little line but would be better if the possibility of a ground fall didn't exist.
1 Comment