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Routes in Green Slabs (South Face)

Mother Psycho's Little Darlins T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Banana Cake (Buttress) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blade Runner S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
David and Goliath T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fathers Dazed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Banana Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Here and Gone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Josh and Dave's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump for Joyce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krack a Tack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Missing in Action T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Business T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Left Foot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Stars T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Not KIA T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock Candy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Samson and Dalieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
So-o-o Swe-e-et T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Toy Roof T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unknown 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wits End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wrench Warfare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yurt Monkey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Don VandeGriff, Ben Burnam, Vincent Greene
Page Views: 803 total, 5/month
Shared By: Vincent Greene on Jun 19, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This is on a buttress closer to the road than the bulk of the routes. Follow the clearest trail from the road. As soon as you reach the rock face, cut left along the rock until you reach a downclimb to a ledge with several trees. From the shady ledge, follow three bolts (1 and 2 spaced close enough to prevent a ground fall). After 3rd bolt look for about three bomber placements before the fourth bolt. Crux is a bolt-protected sidepull move up right side of a short headwall below the large ledge where the chains are located.

Protection

Five 3/8" S/S Rawl bolts and gear to 1 1/2".1/2" S/S Rawl bolts with grade 43 cold shuts and grade 43 chain anchors shared with Wits End. You probably need a 60 meter rope for this one.

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Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
Scott Tucker   Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
The 5.8+ face move up high is a bit contrived, as there is practically a staircase to the right of the face. Otherwise it's mostly 5.7 with some fun thin stuff down low at the bolts to big, easily protected ledges and steps above. This was my first lead placing gear and I might recommend it for such because of the bolts on the hard parts and the fact that the gear placement is on very easy ground. May 9, 2006