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Routes in Green Slabs (South Face)

Mother Psycho's Little Darlins T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Banana Cake (Buttress) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blade Runner S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
David and Goliath T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fathers Dazed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Banana Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Here and Gone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Josh and Dave's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump for Joyce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krack a Tack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Missing in Action T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Business T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Left Foot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Stars T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Not KIA T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock Candy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Samson and Dalieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
So-o-o Swe-e-et T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Toy Roof T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unknown 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wits End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wrench Warfare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yurt Monkey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 169 total · 6/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Nov 28, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Not my route, but it's the very next buttress up right from Samson and Dalieback. Book said "double cracks," but I'd call it a discontinuous crack. Fun side pulls and adequate pro. Bulge near the top may be the crux.

Location

Next buttress uphill from Samson and Dalieback. Slightly smooth start. Had to hunt for the anchor bolts on the top which are out of sight to the right, below the lip.

Protection

Standard rack up to about a #1 Camalot.

Photos

Totally don't know if this is the route, but I did it and it was super duper fun! Its on the left side of the same formation as David and Goliath. For gear, I ended up using one of each BD #3-6, two 2's and a #1. I used anchors for what I assume is David and Goliath, which were way to the right and thus had horrendous rope drag when cleaning. Since I don't think it's been climbing often, there were a good number of baseball-football sized rocks, so wear helmets!!! Don't let the small offwidth scare you off, I hardly used and OW technique with the exception of arm-bars for rests and mostly stemmed. Super fun route with super cool movement and bomber gear, I loved it! Sep 1, 2017
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Thanks for bringing this route back to public attention! This climb was put up in 1990 by Tom Weaver, Bob Flaugher, and Robert Pippin, about the same time they did "Samson and Dalieback." I have not done this climb since about '96, think I'll try it again, as soon as it stops raining... Jul 14, 2017